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Old 01-13-2013, 10:53 AM
  #1486  
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Originally Posted by rcracenut
Here the set up you need. https://www.box.com/s/0f2d69b41d9bd5...5/5248391480/1 . FOLLOW IT TO THE LETTER! Not just the springs and oils but EVERYTHING. Skipping parts of it will not give you the handling you want. Do this and hold on. If you can drive well, it will put you up front.
And try put in a little drag brake if you need more turn in.
Dang...that is a smallest track i have ever seen !!
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:33 PM
  #1487  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
43 spur with 13 pinion

Why go that route instead of 15/41?

Trying to understand
I've ran a 43 tooth spur since the scte came out. It opens up the gearing range and keeps temps down. Mikes, my home track, is medium size so I didn't feel I was ever lacking top end plus I love having the low end available for short approach jumps.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:55 PM
  #1488  
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Nice ill try it but I run on bigger tracks will 14 still work?. I temp 120 with 14/41 now

Got 2nd place today Woohoo. Truck was dialed! Driver had real bad case of nerves and my hands were shaking really bad which was messing up my concentration. I could have had first if I could have kept my cool. Any tips for that?
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:32 PM
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Any plans on RB6 swingshafts to go with your superduty diff? Sign me up for a set if/when available!
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:08 PM
  #1490  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Nice ill try it but I run on bigger tracks will 14 still work?. I temp 120 with 14/41 now

Got 2nd place today Woohoo. Truck was dialed! Driver had real bad case of nerves and my hands were shaking really bad which was messing up my concentration. I could have had first if I could have kept my cool. Any tips for that?
If you like the power and temps you have now, stay with your gearing. The set up I posted was developed by Matt and Estace at this years Short Course Showdown Showdown held at Mikes Hobby Shop. The track was inconsistant and blowing out in sections. There was 1 very long jump that was difficult to nail every time. This set up is an incredibly stable and easy to drive set up yet still has all of the steering you can handle.
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:09 PM
  #1491  
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Matt, any updates on MIP swingshafts/axles/outdrives for the RB5/6? Were waiting? Don't you want my money?


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Old 01-13-2013, 04:08 PM
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Anybody here try the Bypass system on there Kyosho sc's?
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:23 PM
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Does anyone have a good setup for mip scte for outdoor loose bumpy track. Tried searching and haven't found an actual setup and don't know where to begin...thanks
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:50 PM
  #1494  
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Big shout out too you guys for all the help @ Ohio RC Factory this weekend!!! Great Win with the MIP Pro4 Ten-SCTE... Seen when I got home the CVD's for the 22SCT our ready. Have to pick them up soon. Any shock or diff's for the 22SCT coming. Don't want to upgrade it too much cause it is dialed for me.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:22 PM
  #1495  
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Originally Posted by snaketaco
Does anyone have a good setup for mip scte for outdoor loose bumpy track. Tried searching and haven't found an actual setup and don't know where to begin...thanks
I would start with Matt Olsons Toys for Tots set up found on MIP web page and be prepared to try lighter shock oils.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:48 AM
  #1496  
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Well I bought the MIP Pro-4mance kit for the SCTE and I've only been able to run it once so far and love it for the most part. Just a couple questions. I noticed with the base setup, the truck has a ton of push. Any idea's on getting a little more traction up front? It is on a Med-High bite clay indoor. Also I have been looking at some of matt olsen's setups and noticed he seems to be running a different shock towers than the ones that come with the kit. And also running the regular longer rear springs again. Can anyone shed some light on this. Was going to set my truck up tonight, but just confused on what he is using.
Thanks for any help!
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:17 PM
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Any video on tha sc main ???
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MonsterSummit
Well I bought the MIP Pro-4mance kit for the SCTE and I've only been able to run it once so far and love it for the most part. Just a couple questions. I noticed with the base setup, the truck has a ton of push. Any idea's on getting a little more traction up front? It is on a Med-High bite clay indoor. Also I have been looking at some of matt olsen's setups and noticed he seems to be running a different shock towers than the ones that come with the kit. And also running the regular longer rear springs again. Can anyone shed some light on this. Was going to set my truck up tonight, but just confused on what he is using.
Thanks for any help!
You may want to try the factory carbon fiber towers F & R. I think if you look at the setup sheet for the J-Concepts in Massachusets back in October Matt mentions using them them on the setup sheet. You can also try the blue springs up front. I've been pretty happy with this setup on a smallish indoor track.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:02 PM
  #1499  
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I just installed the chassis kit in my SCTE last week, and got to run it yesterday and today. I'm very impressed. As a new driver, I wondered if I would even know enough to detect a difference, but the difference is huge. Makes even my driving skills look good. The term I've heard used repeatedly is 'planted' and that describes it exactly. I'm having way more fun now.

But I'm confused about the springs.

I followed the instructions and the basic setup to the letter, using the Losi front springs in the rear, but they just don't seem long enough. I've got ride height at about 27mm but at droop, both the front (MIP yellow) and the rear springs have zero tension on them. At the end of each day, the springs are askew on the retainers/mounts. I'm actually surprised I have not lost a mount.

Putting the TLR Orange rear springs on, and setting the adjustment rings all the way up, I get about 29mm ride height in the rear.

I'm sure I'm missing something.... any idea about what I'm missing?
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:32 PM
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You mentioned that you followed the setup sheet -- however, just to be sure, is the rear lower shock holder in the outermost hole on the a-arm (ie, close to wheel). I made the mistake of mounting the shock on the innermost hole on the a-arm and had the problem you just described.
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