Wow . I can't begin to comment on that article ." Very detailed it is "

Early in the thread a few people found that balanced wasn't to their liking for their track/conditions. I would never limit yourself to not trying a change just because it may break a "rule". One spring step up or down may not even be visible in the drop test, depending on the rates you have available.

I agree with some of the principles in this thread but I'm still not sold on the spring balance idea. For discussion purposes
1. Why balance the car with the shocks void of oil? Once you add oil, wouldn't that ruin any spring balance you were attempting to achieve?
2. The whole idea of the drop test is ironic because your car is never stationary nor does it hit a bump with all four tires at the same time. The front tires hit and then the rear. It seams as though the car would be further out of balance once it was put into motion.
3. Since camber links are more of a fine tuning adjustment, what happens after you have followed this setup advice and have exhausted the tuning range of the camber links?

For the record, I understand setup very well , but I am wondering how much further the information in this forum will go. Or does it stop at the camber links?

Mike X-ray ; I'm running the heaviest front spring Durango makes (white 119) so its as hard as it can got .
400 units ; u use several different tuning tricks to maximize ur performance . And I along with many others believe the cars feel better and r easier to set up once u achieve balance . It does drive different (something u have to get used to)I've have 10+different people drive my truck and I always get the same resp once " it feels really balanced and easy to drive compared to mine let SO&So drive it ...." lol now if I could turn the lap times they do with my truck...
I believe in the system cause I tried it and liked it much better than a " text book set up"

oops double post
I am not talented enough to post and use the phone at the same time.

400units, I think I have gotten to your third point on my SC10. It is too eager to over-rotate and I have a hard time putting down power coming out of the corners too. I also have a hard time with traction rolling in our sweeper. My thought is to start looking at sway bars in the front. I've already got the front roll stiffness as firm as I can get it with the camber link (yes, I got the direction right this time ). I think we could start to expand the discussion out to things just beyond camber links (sway bars, diff adjustments- both ball diff and gear diff, anti-squat, kick-up, etc.).

I've had good luck with the spring balancing in the past but I have not forced myself to stick to it exclusively. I will move the shocks around on their mounting positions a bit. There's too much benefit in handling from moving the shocks to not take advantage of it.

1. Once in motion the springs will keep the "up" equally, the oil is more to "dampen" the oscillations that would happen if it were spring only.
2. Kind of like the guys who push their car backwards to test the slipper ? Gotta see them all at once, if you picked up just one end then the other it would be difficult to tell
3. all kinds of good info in here, I read from page one and cut and paste and stick it in the race binder !

I used to be the guy that tried to fix everything with a spring change. Since reading this and actually applying it to my tunning stradegy my cars are so much better. At first its a little confusing but once you get it your cars really perform like you always wish they would. Thanks to all for the great info here.

Principles aside, have you tried it? I have yet to do it to a car and feel like I wasted my time. I went from middle of the pack B main buggy driver to bottom of the pack A main buggy driver at my track just by having having a balanced car. Principles are nice, but results speak.

Glad I found this thread! Ive always been pretty bad with tuning, and I didn't understand what a lot of the adjustments were for. For example, I figured that changing pistons was supposed to be pretty much the same thing as changing oil viscosity. I'll definitely be reading through it to learn more. Im going to try the balance method with my stuff soon. I know some people didnt like it, but worst that happens is I waste some time and learn something new anyway. Thanks for all of the great info everyone!

Good comments guys. I thought I was going to get lambasted for asking questions that might challenge the views in this thread, but you guys all gave honest answers. Thanks

If a car is traction rolling it is because it has too much roll stiffness. Adding a sway bar or raising the roll center will only make it worse.

Exactly what I was thinking and how I would fix a issue with my tc car . . Tks fred

On the sweeper, my truck will lift the inside rear tire. When I let off, it wallows down onto the outside front tire and if I'm moving at a pretty good clip it will snap hook and roll over. That, plus my inability to tame the aggressiveness of the steering is why I am adding the roll bar. The sweeper kind of throws a curve ball at me. It needs a bit of a different set up than the rest of the track. Its shared by the oval racers at our track and tends to blue groove while the rest of the track doesn't. Traction is different in the turn and tires are howling. Folks that have watched my truck say that it is rolling a LOT in the sweeper. That would seem to explain the inside tire lifting. Correct me if I'm wrong in any of my assumptions.

What truck/buggy u running . I would think if its a banked sweeper and ur lifting the inside tire on a 2wd u need to stay in the gas and quit "yanking " it into the sweeper . I'm sure more detail might make me think different . But ur description of the issue is just like running our sweeper on our on road track . If u lift after entering abruptly ....the car would instantly be 10' off the track