Well ive made my spares order..... now to get my shell back and race it, this is my first order, my second order will include bling bits, driveshafts, pins and screws for spares.

1 x SER600488 Serpent 8 Hole Shock Piston Set (4)
1 x SER600357 Serpent Webbed Shock Bladder Set (4)
1 x SER600353 Serpent Front Shock Spring Set (Red/4.64lbs) (2)
1 x SER600332 Serpent S811 Cobra Decal Sheet (Chrome) (2)
1 x SER600301 Serpent Aluminum Wing Mount Washer Set (2)
1 x SER600300 Serpent Aluminum Wing Mount Post Set (2)
1 x SER600257 Serpent Rear Shock Spring Set (Yellow/3.8lbs) (2)
1 x SER600135 Serpent Front Lower Suspension Arm Set (2)
1 x SER600441 Serpent Low Profile Wing Mount Set
1 x SER600108 Serpent Inner Hinge Pin Set (2)
1 x SER600240 Serpent 2.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
1 x SER600147 Serpent Differential Gasket Set (3)

My E car was great yesterday on the indoor track. I actually turned the fastest lap in the E class yesterday in the 22. sec range. I'm still faster with the E car than the nitro. I gotta do some setup on the nitro. The E car is dialed.

frank the ebuggy just stupid dialed. but once we get are nitro car update this spring it going to be game on.

The Serpent felt amazing at the Toys for tots race. I pulled off a 4th place finish . It was absolutly glued to the track with a few setup changes. I liked the 2.2mm sway bar up front from the rear of my SC10 4x4. I also changed the front toe to zero and it made the car easier to drive. The track surface was dusty and hard and I was using pink hot bodies mega grids and had plenty of traction all over.

I cant wait to race this car indoor on a high bite surface to see what it feels like.

Frank can you send me your updated setup sheet

we should be able to post our setups online

Yes could someone post up there setups. I am thinking about getting rid of mine because it is no fun to drive. The rear of the car wants to pass up the front. I tried all kinds of things and cant get it to stay planted.

What's your current setup and what type of track do you run on?

I'm assembling the front and shimmed it like the sheet says, with 3 0,2 shims.
When closing the diff enclosure, it all comes very hard to turn.
Should I let it go like that and break in, or I should remove one shim?
Regards!

let it break, i am.

The shimming in the manual and separate sheet is only a recommendation, if it's too tight to turn then something is not right. It should be slightly tight, i.e. a bit notchy. On mine I had to remove one of the shims behind the pinion to achieve the correct mesh.

+1

My rear shimed out really nice per the extra shiming instructions they added. I had some notch when turning the rear shaft by had and felt good. When I did the front per directions I had a heck of a time turning the drive shaft! I took out one of the thinner shims and then the front felt like the rear.

both of mine shimmed out perfectly, rear was slightly notch but ran it for a few mins and this went away.

Im running 553 in the diffs. 1.3 8 hole pistons with 35 weight, and everything else like the manual. i tried different shock springs, sway bars, diff oils. still when you get on power comming out of a turn it want to spin out. It love to do donuts.

oh yeah we run out doors, clay and sandy at some tracks.