Working on putting my Serpent together. I was wondering how tight the diff is on your guys cars. I know the manual says it takes a hour to break the diff in. I out my rear diff together the way the manual says and it is a little hard to turn by turning the drive shaft with your fingers, just wondering if this will free up.

This would look really good with the 811BE :)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-must-see.html

No videos, but this past Sunday racing at ARCs, my 811BE ran the first ever 18 lap run on this layout, and cranked out a 17:07 sec. lap. Helped that the traction was really good. Also, in the main, every lap was in the 17s, and my consistency was 0.20. Went to practice Tuesday and made a few more changes that felt better.

Very 007 like, me likey!

Man Chambers! and I thought you were flying last time I was out when you and Weber were having at it! So are you going to give me all your secrets or are you going to enjoy watching me suffer, haha.

Doing exactly the same only with PL8... Nice work! Thank you! Will have very nice example!

Revolectrix are ones of the best chargers now produced. I am already using CellPro 10S for charging my 1/8 e-buggy 2x2S LiPo batteries and it works exceptionally accurate and quick. It is very simple and very smart charger. If someone is looking for simple good charger to charge 2x2S LiPo batteries - go for it!

And PL6 and PL8 have nice feature for dual (or multi) channel operation - Expansion Channel Mode. Every unit is already set up as a Primary. Each additional unit can easily be programmed as an Expansion Channel. The Primary sends the currently selected preset out to each Expansion Channel. The only buttons you press after that are the Primary's. Start any operation and each unit begins to charge, discharge, cycle, or monitor the packs connected!

maxxing will get you set up next firday
start with the base set up eric posted a few pages back and then i help you tune to you.

you must have your servo saver too tight, thats its job to save the servo components. I've had several full speed hits on pipes down the straightaway and no brakage what so ever.

NOTICE: to those building their 811e and those that have it built. The metal upper arm links that connect the upper arm links to the shock towers need special attention. I have had 2 of them come undone even with blue threadlock. That metal seems to have a thin layer of oil in the threads that effect the blue threadlock. Be sure to clean out the oil with something or use longer screws with more threadlock.

All the screws in the kit seem to have oil on them. I hit them with motor cleaner before installing them and that seemed to help. I also cleaned any alum parts that screws went into with motor cleaner and so far there hasnt been any issues. I had the same issues when I built the truggy, I had many loose screws no matter how much loctite I used.

yes all serpent screws have oil on them i ask why 1000 time no answer so spray them with motor spray makes life easer

well i didn't notice the screws having oil on them, only the metal parts they went into.

the oil is dry on has a brownish in color look to it

Any black Friday sales with serpents?

Most fastener manufacturers leave a little oil on them to help stop corrosion and probably is just left over from when they were made. Perhaps in over kits they have cleaned this off.
As for using any threadlock you should clean both threads with something like brake cleaner before assembly.

Missing part help
 

Hi Everyone,

Just got my Serpent and I'm trying to put it together. I'm on page 7 steps A 10 - A 110

The little washer that the M3x18 screws into while connecting the rear diff to the shock tower - is that washer this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Washer-Set-12

I seme to not have those in my kit.

Thanks.

It's a m3 cone washer but the kit comes with plastic cone washers. They are on a tree all together. Look and you will find them. Btw any m3 cone washer will work.