no i did not i gave up and called billy.
he told me the plastic one fine just super glue the insert in the horn

I had the alum horn all set and shimmed out perfectly but it caused the steering to bind. So I'm running the plastic too. I even had cone washers and it looked identical to the plastic setup but that damm thing would just bind every time it moved. Have to wait for the official serpent alum part.

What shock springs are you guys running. I ordered the complete set of serpent springs. The question is the pink springs are the softest springs for the front and the white are the stiffest springs for the rear.

yes white is the stiff rear but the front have to softer orange and red.

i am going to start with the box stock set up but formthe tabel toss i think it going to need some yellow rears

can somebody tell me what size drivers you need to build this kit?

or an online manual to browse, thanks.

So is this right stiffer front softer rear

you need a few things
1.5mm 2.0mm 2.5mm 3.0mm hex wrench
nut drivers
7mm 5.5mm i think covers you.

the manual is on serpent website find the buggy and then it right under downloads

tracy i only driven a team mate car and i thought it felt good with the stock springs.
but billy said he runs the car with blue front springs and yellow rears

so i going to build a second set shocks the same and test them

I cant decide between this and the durango thats aparently going to be released within the next few years :p

If you want a new ride this one is very nice. I was very pleased the way it assembled. Fit and finish is excellent. I had a buddy recently build one and he experienced the same perfection while building. Great job serpent. My favorite thing about this car so far is the way it corrects when I steer, jump or crash it out of shape. It can come off a jump and look like it should roll but it hits the ground and shoots out clean. If you want to wait for Durango you can always sell the serpent, they don't sit long when up for sale.

I'm trying to decide on a 1:8 electric for next season, it will only begin in March so I have ample time left. The serpent looks really nice and I would prefer the dual battery configuration, but this causes that the motor is only balanced by the ESC and servo. I wonder how is the 811E compensated for this left-right weight bias? Probably with an assymetric chassis and add-on weights?

thanks for the reply, the advantage is all the components are all low down unlike the durango the ESC is up top making the COG higher.

only problem is in the UK the serpent isnt backed up with easy access to spares.

what pinions are you guys running in the serpent?

I see the same thing. I think its cuz the greater angle in the front kick up.

I thought the same thing. My buddy did the 4 scale one on each wheel and it was perfectly balanced. The reason is that the motor is more center line than the ESC and servo, which are further out on the chassis and as hard as it may seem to believe that makes a huge difference in counter balance.

I'm running the stock 16T with my 1900kv tekin and its right on par with the faster cars at my track. I was still unloading on the front with 5k center diff and then 7K (trying 8.5k now) so I wouldn't torque it up much more by going lower in teeth. If anything I'm going to try 17t, humm but then again the rpms will be higher so it still might unload. either way 15-17T for US tracks should be the sweet spot. I ordered the Techno pinions with the larger grub nut (NICE).

im getting a 2050KV motor what pinions recommended?

use the 16T in the kit. I'd have no lower than a 14T and no higher than a 17T with that motor as spares/options in your tool box. buy 15T for sure. BUT really check out the Techno pinions. The bigger 2.5mm grub nut or screw means you can crank down harder without fear of stripping the smaller ones. and they are labled well and cost about the same as a robinson.