Thanks. Mine are actually in front and the mounts for the wheel scrubbers are facing the rear. I just remembered that my 2.0 manual is the 811e manual. They also sent a supplement for the 2.0. Anyway, looks like those uprights are facing the rear. Makes sense I guess since those mounted the links to the rear of the tower. I believe making those face the front will be what is called for in the 2.1 upgrade so I'm going to try that.

It's easy to get them right. On the tower, the camber link should be on the opposite side of the damper. Mount the upprights so you get the camberlink as straight as possible and not pointing excessively forward och bakwards. :)

Thanks. Thats what I did and was trying to say...lol.

SER600681 Light Radio Tray
 

To those that have installed the light radio tray, do you have any issues with dirt getting into your receiver? I want to purchase the tray, but I prefer my receiver in a box. However, if it's not a problem, I guess I shouldn't be concerned. Also, do you have any pics of how you route the receiver antenna? I hope those airtonics antenna-less 481s hit the market soon.

Here is how I do mine. I also use the rubber plugs that come with the sanwa receivers to keep the dirt out. Been running it like that since mid last summer with no issues. At one point before I did this I had cut the receiver box off the old radio tray and used screws to attach it to the front of the carbon spur gear plate.

The 600476 hub should have the camber link mounts to the front like the 2.0 hubs. The 1.0 and TE had them to the rear because the shocks were on the front of the arms. The camberlink mounts to the front of the tower as well.

Thanks Chicky.

Chicky, in that first picture, it looks like you ran all your servo wires under the radio tray. Is that correct?

Yes that is correct!

I installed all 2.1 parts to my 2.0Be and had issue with steering turnbuckle ends hit the new 14 degree front spindle. Had to file a small amount for clearance. I have not got to run it but excited to get it on track.

Has anyone had a chance to run the new 2.1 yet? I am looking to replace my worn out 1.0 with the 2.1 so I am curios to hear opinions of it. Also, does anyone know when the 2.1 will be available?

I have run the old V2 hubs and 14 degree alu casterblocks on my 2.0 making it in reality a 2.1. As for the hubs I didn't noticed any difference at all. Maybe it was a little bit looser than before?
As for the 14 degree blocks I lost lowspeed steering compared to 10 degree blocks but at high speed on bumpy corners it was more stable (as it should be increesing caster).
Another thing I have noticed on all my cars when running alu caster blocks, is that the flex the plastic ones have, is then transfered to the lower arms with the alu ones and they crack really easy on the crossmember running between the mountingholes for the casterblock. Never seen that running the plastic ones.

So in my case, running the 12 degree plastic ones, is the best option for have a stable car att high speed corners and maintaining good steering at lower speed corners. As for the new (old V2) rear hubs it's not alway a better solution and probably depends on wich type of track you run on. On the BE the difference wasn't that big for me but on my nitro Cobra the 2.2 rear was a little looser than 2.0/2.1.

So do you have a original 2.0 BE you really wouldn't benefit from a change to 2.1 more than the difference the caster blocks make. :)

Thanks ForzaVeloce. I was thing the 2.1 rear was supposed to be more stable. I guess that is not the case. What is supposed to be the benefits of the 2.1 rear?

I ran the body this last weekend and thought it worked really well. I would recommend it to anyone looking for a new body. I was really happy with it.:nod:

The new rear end is supposed to be a little more stable and should handle rough track better. It should also be more consistent between tracks and minimaze the setupchanges.

So here is an update about my recent testing of the rear ends. Done them mostly on my nitro cobra but when trying it on the Be the reult was the same.

We did a rebuild of my hometrack this winter and it has been getting a bit bumpier and the jumps have settled a bit so the last testing did highlight the differences a bit more. When running the new Be 2.1 rear (and a setup suited for it) I did noticed that the car was a little bit calmer over the rough sections. Shortjumping and braking on the backside of jumps the car also settled a lot better and was easier to handle. Not a big difference but I could notice it.

So from now on the 2.1 rear is the way to go for me right now. :)

Hi guy's, i know this isn't an RTR thread but hopefully you can help me out.
Buying the 811Be RTR as a starter to see if i like 1/8 offroad and don't want to spend a fortune on upgrading. Will splash out on a new kit later if i like it.

Was looking at the 2.0 basic upgrade kit, #600643. Will i notice a handling difference with just the wider rear 2.0 arms?

Also i currently have 6500mah SMC batteries which i use for 1/10 TC.
They weigh 612grams/2 packs, will shorties that weigh 418grams/2 packs make that much of a difference to handling?

Will the 4400mah batteries get through a 10min run and still have about 20% left? I am not a fan of running lipo's down to the limit.

Thanks in advance.