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Were close on setups exept im running lr rear block with 5 out for more rear toe in and front I've got 2's down just to lower roll center and help it rotate through the center do you run the 3.5* rear toe cause you feel like you need more straight line stability? Or does it feel like it wants to step out on you on corner exit when on power? What sway bars you running? |
Step out on corner exit, 2.3 front and 2.5 rear
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But its almost to stable in straight line like it won't turn quite enough . don't get me wrong car is very close and lays down the fastest laps weekly I'm just looking for that last 1%
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That's the beauty of this car, you really can feel any changes made- good or bad. Sometimes it makes you wonder if it no longer is the setup but the tire selection that needs to be changed. Awesome that you've got yours running to your driving style!
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Originally Posted by picco007
(Post 11988075)
RC Tactical and Chicky,
Here is a pic of the springs, the Pink v1's are on the left (shorter) at 62mm, the V2 Blue is to the right of the pink which is 68.5 mm. The next spring is the V2 Purple that measured at 72mm, (installed in car) that is the reason why I had my collars all of the way up and can't make the car any lower than 30mm-31mm. I'm hoping to get this taken care of soon. Thanks for all of your help. Ronnie
Originally Posted by Racermac73
(Post 11989826)
But its almost to stable in straight line like it won't turn quite enough . don't get me wrong car is very close and lays down the fastest laps weekly I'm just looking for that last 1%
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Originally Posted by chicky03
(Post 11991163)
I talked to Billy and he said to squeeze the springs a few times all the way and that should do the trick. They settle into a smaller size after you do that.
Ronnie |
First Run
1 Attachment(s)
Ok so first of all this car is awesome First time out last night on outdoor clay and ended up 2nd in the Amain. This is the original and not the 2.0. I need some advice on what will make the rear end more planted. I am running the box setup besides a 1mm rise of ride hight in the rear and the droop screws are adjusted down to limit travel. It seems as if the car is hooked up when I'm on the throttle but once I let off it is loose. I was considering a different tire and changing the diffs to 5/5/3 with 3 in the rear? I am new to 1/8 so I am learning set up on it. My driving style is not always on the throttle, and rolling corners here and there with the exception of powering through once in awhile. Here is the track. I am running a tekin rx8 and a t8 1900kv.
Thanks! |
That could be as simple as thicker shock fluid in the front and u can also try taking a little droop out of the back so weight can't transfer as much to the front when your off throttle but going up 5-10 in front oil weight might be just right
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Originally Posted by chicky03
(Post 11991163)
I talked to Billy and he said to squeeze the springs a few times all the way and that should do the trick. They settle into a smaller size after you do that.
Squeezed the springs today, they did settle and back on the buggy for this week. Thanks again! |
Originally Posted by Racermac73
(Post 11993841)
That could be as simple as thicker shock fluid in the front and u can also try taking a little droop out of the back so weight can't transfer as much to the front when your off throttle but going up 5-10 in front oil weight might be just right
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I have some 2.0 feedback. I have been running and winning with the original 1.0 ebuggy and recently upgraded the rear end to the wider 2.0 buggy. It feels much more stable during the middle of the corner and on throttle during corner exit. I had always struggled to get the rear end to plan early coming out of a corner and had to always back off the throttle while other buggies were pulling me out of corners. Now I will be doing the pulling. :D If the rear end of your car is a little loose, regardless of the setup changes you make, you might want to try the new update.
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This may be an "off topic" question, but I race on a hard clay track and when it blue grooves wore out soft tires work the best. But after the owner rebuilds the track he doesnt run 8th scale for two weeks so the track has time to "gel". We have a big race next weekend called the Winter Champs and he is rebuilding the track this week so the question is what tire and compound would work the best for a freshly built track. I am currently running aka handlebars in super soft would them tires still work or should I get a small pin tire?? I have alredy asked the "fast" guys at my track that run ebuggy and they are unsure cause they dont even know. So I hope you guys can help. Thanks
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Originally Posted by alexander449
(Post 11995354)
This may be an "off topic" question, but I race on a hard clay track and when it blue grooves wore out soft tires work the best. But after the owner rebuilds the track he doesnt run 8th scale for two weeks so the track has time to "gel". We have a big race next weekend called the Winter Champs and he is rebuilding the track this week so the question is what tire and compound would work the best for a freshly built track. I am currently running aka handlebars in super soft would them tires still work or should I get a small pin tire?? I have alredy asked the "fast" guys at my track that run ebuggy and they are unsure cause they dont even know. So I hope you guys can help. Thanks
You can never predict what tire to run, unless you've run on it before, with similar track surface wear/break-in, etc.. Good luck man! |
Originally Posted by weavty1
(Post 11986346)
Fioroni pistons are expensive as hell and unfortunately not worth the bling factor, since you'll never see them from outside the shock bodies.. :(
I run the blue CSI pistons and webbed bladders, locally.. You'll like the blue pistons! :) Super nice. WAY better than the stock ones. As for oil, I'm still playing around with that.. Since Henry County will be changing their track this weekend, looks like I'll have to redial-in a lot of my setups! When is the next race you'll be at, locally?? :cool:
Originally Posted by cmenard
(Post 11986719)
Hey Grant,
I ran the Fioroni pistons in my Mugen Eco. They will produce allot of pack and work well on the smoother tracks we run on in the area. However, at the PNB I ran CSI blues which worked much better on the blown out surface. I have enough shock parts to build a second set, except that I moved the 2.0 rear end over from the nitro, and I don't have another set of those longer shock bodies. Mostly, being new to ebuggy (and pretty much offroad in general) trying to set up a baseline so that I can start tuning. The suspension felt terrible at HCRCR, way too stiff, even though it managed me a decent finish (discounting bumping to the A and my transponder not reading consistently). While the back end was fairly planted, the buggy pushed even off power. Rebuilt everything 2 weeks ago, 5-5-3 diffs (front, center, rear), shocks, changed to the 2.0 rear end, went to stock suspension arm inserts, 45wt front, 35wt rear shock oil, 2.3 front sway, 2.1 rear (this is the straight bar style sways that people say are similar to one step thicker). I appreciate the help Curtis! Thanks! |
Just curious about this buggy . Starting with the 600004, then to the 600012 what are the differences. I know that the 600004 has the front mount rear shocks and narrow rear end the 600012 goes to the rear mount with the wider rear end.What would it take to get the 600004 up to the 600012? I currently have a new 600004 and just got the full rear upgrade. What else is different.I've read and read descriptions and aside from just getting the full rear upgrade what else would I need?
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