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-   -   Serpent 811E Buggy Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/517713-serpent-811e-buggy-thread.html)

Maxxingout 03-30-2013 07:01 AM


Were close on setups exept im running lr rear block with 5 out for more rear toe in and front I've got 2's down just to lower roll center and help it rotate through the center
Yes I forgot to mention that my 2fr is down also. I like to come in pretty hot without using as little braking as possible. Having the 2 down lets me have less kick-up on the front and really helps me feel less weight being transferred to the front.

do you run the 3.5* rear toe cause you feel like you need more straight line stability? Or does it feel like it wants to step out on you on corner exit when on power? What sway bars you running?

Racermac73 03-30-2013 07:35 AM

Step out on corner exit, 2.3 front and 2.5 rear

Racermac73 03-30-2013 07:37 AM

But its almost to stable in straight line like it won't turn quite enough . don't get me wrong car is very close and lays down the fastest laps weekly I'm just looking for that last 1%

Maxxingout 03-30-2013 08:16 AM

That's the beauty of this car, you really can feel any changes made- good or bad. Sometimes it makes you wonder if it no longer is the setup but the tire selection that needs to be changed. Awesome that you've got yours running to your driving style!

chicky03 03-30-2013 05:43 PM


Originally Posted by picco007 (Post 11988075)
RC Tactical and Chicky,

Here is a pic of the springs, the Pink v1's are on the left (shorter) at 62mm, the V2 Blue is to the right of the pink which is 68.5 mm. The next spring is the V2 Purple that measured at 72mm, (installed in car) that is the reason why I had my collars all of the way up and can't make the car any lower than 30mm-31mm. I'm hoping to get this taken care of soon. Thanks for all of your help.

Ronnie

I talked to Billy and he said to squeeze the springs a few times all the way and that should do the trick. They settle into a smaller size after you do that.



Originally Posted by Racermac73 (Post 11989826)
But its almost to stable in straight line like it won't turn quite enough . don't get me wrong car is very close and lays down the fastest laps weekly I'm just looking for that last 1%

You can try a softer rear spring, longer rear wheel base, lighter rear oil, less anti squat and a higher rear camber link for more rotation. I also like 12 deg castor blocks.

picco007 03-30-2013 08:16 PM


Originally Posted by chicky03 (Post 11991163)
I talked to Billy and he said to squeeze the springs a few times all the way and that should do the trick. They settle into a smaller size after you do that.

Thanks, I will do that. I appreciated the help!

Ronnie

JOJOHAMBONE 03-31-2013 01:01 PM

First Run
 
1 Attachment(s)
Ok so first of all this car is awesome First time out last night on outdoor clay and ended up 2nd in the Amain. This is the original and not the 2.0. I need some advice on what will make the rear end more planted. I am running the box setup besides a 1mm rise of ride hight in the rear and the droop screws are adjusted down to limit travel. It seems as if the car is hooked up when I'm on the throttle but once I let off it is loose. I was considering a different tire and changing the diffs to 5/5/3 with 3 in the rear? I am new to 1/8 so I am learning set up on it. My driving style is not always on the throttle, and rolling corners here and there with the exception of powering through once in awhile. Here is the track. I am running a tekin rx8 and a t8 1900kv.
Thanks!

Racermac73 03-31-2013 02:25 PM

That could be as simple as thicker shock fluid in the front and u can also try taking a little droop out of the back so weight can't transfer as much to the front when your off throttle but going up 5-10 in front oil weight might be just right

picco007 03-31-2013 06:13 PM


Originally Posted by chicky03 (Post 11991163)
I talked to Billy and he said to squeeze the springs a few times all the way and that should do the trick. They settle into a smaller size after you do that.


Squeezed the springs today, they did settle and back on the buggy for this week. Thanks again!

JOJOHAMBONE 03-31-2013 09:18 PM


Originally Posted by Racermac73 (Post 11993841)
That could be as simple as thicker shock fluid in the front and u can also try taking a little droop out of the back so weight can't transfer as much to the front when your off throttle but going up 5-10 in front oil weight might be just right

Ok I think I will try this set up I found on pettit rc for hard packed blue groove so I will try to start from there and thicken the oil if I need too. Thanks

400units 03-31-2013 09:50 PM

I have some 2.0 feedback. I have been running and winning with the original 1.0 ebuggy and recently upgraded the rear end to the wider 2.0 buggy. It feels much more stable during the middle of the corner and on throttle during corner exit. I had always struggled to get the rear end to plan early coming out of a corner and had to always back off the throttle while other buggies were pulling me out of corners. Now I will be doing the pulling. :D If the rear end of your car is a little loose, regardless of the setup changes you make, you might want to try the new update.

alexander449 03-31-2013 09:54 PM

This may be an "off topic" question, but I race on a hard clay track and when it blue grooves wore out soft tires work the best. But after the owner rebuilds the track he doesnt run 8th scale for two weeks so the track has time to "gel". We have a big race next weekend called the Winter Champs and he is rebuilding the track this week so the question is what tire and compound would work the best for a freshly built track. I am currently running aka handlebars in super soft would them tires still work or should I get a small pin tire?? I have alredy asked the "fast" guys at my track that run ebuggy and they are unsure cause they dont even know. So I hope you guys can help. Thanks

weavty1 04-01-2013 05:25 AM


Originally Posted by alexander449 (Post 11995354)
This may be an "off topic" question, but I race on a hard clay track and when it blue grooves wore out soft tires work the best. But after the owner rebuilds the track he doesnt run 8th scale for two weeks so the track has time to "gel". We have a big race next weekend called the Winter Champs and he is rebuilding the track this week so the question is what tire and compound would work the best for a freshly built track. I am currently running aka handlebars in super soft would them tires still work or should I get a small pin tire?? I have alredy asked the "fast" guys at my track that run ebuggy and they are unsure cause they dont even know. So I hope you guys can help. Thanks

Depends on the track surface! If it's a little loose on top, then a small pin tire.. If there is absolutely no loose top surface, and it's 100% packed, I'd run what you have on there right now.. Although, your best bet is to just have yourself a new set of wheels to glue some tires onto, for that race. Show up the day before for open practice, see what the other guys are running that work well for them, buy the same tires from track vendor/local shop/fellow racer, then you're good to go!

You can never predict what tire to run, unless you've run on it before, with similar track surface wear/break-in, etc..

Good luck man!

orcadigital 04-01-2013 12:07 PM


Originally Posted by weavty1 (Post 11986346)
Fioroni pistons are expensive as hell and unfortunately not worth the bling factor, since you'll never see them from outside the shock bodies.. :(
I run the blue CSI pistons and webbed bladders, locally.. You'll like the blue pistons! :) Super nice. WAY better than the stock ones.

As for oil, I'm still playing around with that.. Since Henry County will be changing their track this weekend, looks like I'll have to redial-in a lot of my setups!

When is the next race you'll be at, locally??


:cool:

I have not seen anyone announce for the weekends of the 13th or 20th, but probably wherever the racing is. I will be at the Top Gun race at HotShots on the 6th and spent the last weekend working on the touring car for it. Planning on running the GCS, so holding out for at least one Dalton race before the 26th. HCRCR is out for the rest of the month and that really just leaves Dalton and Loganville with Winder shutting down.


Originally Posted by cmenard (Post 11986719)
Hey Grant,

I ran the Fioroni pistons in my Mugen Eco. They will produce allot of pack and work well on the smoother tracks we run on in the area. However, at the PNB I ran CSI blues which worked much better on the blown out surface.

Hmm, wonder if I should change then. I picked up a used nitro buggy with oodles of parts (the reason I got it) and it came with the Fioroni's as well as multiple sets of CSI's. I had thought black CSI first, but was not sure if our tracks are considered smooth enough for that, so decided to try the blues as an in between. Knowing I am setting it up for Dalton and have all the options, should I consider throwing in the Fioronis? What kind of shock oil are you running with them?

I have enough shock parts to build a second set, except that I moved the 2.0 rear end over from the nitro, and I don't have another set of those longer shock bodies.

Mostly, being new to ebuggy (and pretty much offroad in general) trying to set up a baseline so that I can start tuning. The suspension felt terrible at HCRCR, way too stiff, even though it managed me a decent finish (discounting bumping to the A and my transponder not reading consistently). While the back end was fairly planted, the buggy pushed even off power. Rebuilt everything 2 weeks ago, 5-5-3 diffs (front, center, rear), shocks, changed to the 2.0 rear end, went to stock suspension arm inserts, 45wt front, 35wt rear shock oil, 2.3 front sway, 2.1 rear (this is the straight bar style sways that people say are similar to one step thicker).

I appreciate the help Curtis!

Thanks!

shuless 04-03-2013 08:57 AM

Just curious about this buggy . Starting with the 600004, then to the 600012 what are the differences. I know that the 600004 has the front mount rear shocks and narrow rear end the 600012 goes to the rear mount with the wider rear end.What would it take to get the 600004 up to the 600012? I currently have a new 600004 and just got the full rear upgrade. What else is different.I've read and read descriptions and aside from just getting the full rear upgrade what else would I need?


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