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Old 09-20-2013 | 02:01 AM
  #4231  
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The original be and 2.0 have the same gears 13/44. You might just need to add an extra shim on the big gear side. It just depends on how long it has been skipping/grinding. If the teeth are rounded off it's probably better to replace.
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Old 09-22-2013 | 09:11 PM
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Default Tight gear mesh.

Hello, while building my buggy the rear gear is tight when I tighten the screws that hold the diff case together. I started with two shims and then one and now no shims and it is still tight. What is the correct way? Is there going to be some tightness until the car is run some? Can someone please help?
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Old 09-22-2013 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Scooter72
Hello, while building my buggy the rear gear is tight when I tighten the screws that hold the diff case together. I started with two shims and then one and now no shims and it is still tight. What is the correct way? Is there going to be some tightness until the car is run some? Can someone please help?
If you took all the shims out then your gear is probably rubbing on one of the screws that hold the big main bearing in. You can grind that screw down some or take it out completely. Sometimes you can use a drill bit and cut the plastic where the screw goes in a little. The plastic blooms up just enough where the screw wont fully seat. This screw is very close to where the big gear runs.
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Old 09-22-2013 | 10:45 PM
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RCmayor, I took the screw out and it seems to be much better. Not silky smooth but not tight either.What I am feeling now just might be new gears needing to be run in. Thank you for your help.
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Old 09-23-2013 | 12:39 AM
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Ya its an easy fix if you want to put it back in. There are a couple different styles of those screws. One is a thicker pan head, the other is a little round head with a flange. If you feel the hole where the screw was you will feel the little plastic ridge. Cut that with a drill bit and see if the screw clears. If that doesn't work just sand the head of the screw a little with a dremel. It doesn't take much for it to clear. I like running all three so the bearing gets equal pressure on all 3 sides. Make sure you put things back to stock shims per the manual. I'd run it for a few packs, then see how the mesh is and go from there. Be sure to grease the gears.
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Old 09-24-2013 | 07:06 PM
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We are going to try some shorty packs tomorrow. Outdoor large track, with med traction.
Prviously we have only run the car with 6500 MAh packs. The cars are being run with the 1.0 rear for tomorrow.

Any suggestions or recommended suspension tuning to help us get started ?

Thanks
Mike
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Old 09-28-2013 | 07:24 AM
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Do the 8 hole conical pistons only come in the 1.2mm hole size?
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Old 09-28-2013 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by IOP_Racer
Do the 8 hole conical pistons only come in the 1.2mm hole size?
Yes, but you can drill the holes to any size larger that you like.
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Old 09-29-2013 | 03:55 PM
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After testing this sat i found great results running 4600 shorty lipo's. My fast lap times were 32.7 sec. to give an idea of track size. I ran (2) Power Push 4600 lipo's bought from tq racing. I run the dynamite muse sensorless system with the 1800 motor and a 18 tooth pinion. Also really impressed with this system and the smooth driveability. I guarantee if you didn't know it was sensorless you wouldn't tell by driving it.

I started with the lipo's all the way back for the first run. Then moved them to the forward position for the rest of the day. I felt the car worked great there with good rotation and awesome forward bite.

After the 6 min heats the lipo's took 2300 mah back in them, after the 10 min main 3300 mah.

Mike
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Old 10-01-2013 | 11:48 AM
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rdeppen,
Hi. My name is Ron and I'm interested in a Serpent 811 cobra rtr. I thought that I might build a kit (teken eb48.2) but I don't think I am there yet in ability or courage! I keep going back to the Serpent 811 rtr. Is this not best for me. I run on a home made track in Fl. Port St. Lucie, on mostly hard packed sand with a loose top layer. Fairly large track with a few jumps and some tight turns. Would I also need to upgrade to a better radio? Maybe the Airtronics MXV or Futaba 3PL. Need some guidance. Thanks
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Old 10-02-2013 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rkapi128
rdeppen,
Hi. My name is Ron and I'm interested in a Serpent 811 cobra rtr. I thought that I might build a kit (teken eb48.2) but I don't think I am there yet in ability or courage! I keep going back to the Serpent 811 rtr. Is this not best for me. I run on a home made track in Fl. Port St. Lucie, on mostly hard packed sand with a loose top layer. Fairly large track with a few jumps and some tight turns. Would I also need to upgrade to a better radio? Maybe the Airtronics MXV or Futaba 3PL. Need some guidance. Thanks
I really like my 811be rtr, the only problem I have had with it is the esc. I replaced it with a mmp and it works flawlessly. The stock motor is great tons of top end and torque as far as quality, it runs laps around my Mugen mbx6 Eco with a tekin 2050 combo, and the serpent costs half of the Mugen!
As far as I can tell is that for the price the serpent is worth every dollar.
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Old 10-02-2013 | 03:48 PM
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Rkapi we have a local racing at Mills pond with a bone stock RTR 811 e serpent. It does really well. I haven't driven it but he get around the track pretty well with the stock radio, ESC and motor. I think you'd do just fine with the complete serpent RTR package. Just get the right tires for the track your running on.
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Old 10-02-2013 | 04:18 PM
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Hi, after a few years of use my tekin rx8 blew up with style and a nice white smoke cloud. Should I get the rx8 gen 2 or is there any other you would suggest?
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Old 10-02-2013 | 04:21 PM
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What would be a good place to start for gearing a Tekin 2050? Any recommendations on brand of pinions? Thanks!
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Old 10-02-2013 | 04:36 PM
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If you send the RX8 gen 1 in for a on warranty replacement you will get back a gen 2 but it will be less expensive then buying one retail.
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