Just built up a brand new kit.... the diffs and drivelines are buttery smooth but you have to shim correctly. Unfortunately manuals don't contain many words anymore, just exploded diagrams. I just have to shake my head on this one... it's not rocket science, but a few words to go along with the diagrams would save so much time! I still have the manual to my Associated RC10GT I built back in 1994 and it's perfect! I never thought I'd ever say it, but man, they don't make 'em like they used to...

Anyway, on my front/rear diffs, I used shims next to the black metal spacer ring over the pinion carrier and this allowed both bearings to fully seat in the diff cases and there was absolutely no binding; they rotated extremely smooth with no play front to back. And no, my manual wasn't updated to reflect the absence of shims inside the diff housing, nor were the 2.5mm button screws provided - they give us phillips wood screws instead - cool. There was a one page addendum sheet but it didn't illustrate the absence of the smallest shims in the case. But the good news is that I did receive the wrong size bearings for the center diff.... so much for getting past step 1! Getting the diffs built right were a phenomenal PITA because of the lack of updated documentation and explanation on shim placement and requirement.

Beyond that, there really weren't any significant issues. I purchased all steel locknuts instead of using the plastic ones included and I got an aluminum servo arm. This thing is pretty nice overall once you get the nuances figured out. They include a mix of industrial bearings and basic sealed bearings - I see a full Acer Ceramic upgrade in the near future. I can't wait to install the electronics and try it out. I know it's gonna be solid here on out.

Has any one seen that ppl using Velcro straps to hold lipos in now

I use WMD products carbon fiber straps.... They are awesome! I will post some pics later, I have been meaning to.....

How is this buggy now still doing my gas to ep conversion

I am installing a RX8 to my Serpent BE. Three questions.... Does anyone attach the ESC to the radio tray via screws? If so, what size are the screws? What does everyone use to put under the ESC to mount it and protect it? I have velcro, but I think there is a better solution somewhere....

The screws for the hobbywing come with it. I don't know the size but there is a drill template in the box also. I think I just used some foam double sided tape and screws and has been good since.

Thanks man, glad you like them. Still have a bunch ready to ship. :-)

No velco, dint need screws...get servo tape or cheaper better solution, it's the same thing as servo tape. Go to the hardware store or home depot and ask for outdoor permanent double sided mounting tape. It will be gray tape wrapped in red film. Make sure u prep the rx8 and the mounting tray by cleaning with rubbing alcohol first. That is key. Don't touch the tape with your fingers, use a exacto knife, to ensure u don't lose adhesion... Rx8 will never move until you pry it up with a flat screw driver. Yet leaves no real residue. Permanent mounting tape! Ftw!!!

?? is should i just buy a 811 be instead converting my buggy and leave it as gas

all stock except my WMD products carbon fiber battery straps

Thanks for the pics, sure does make the car look better. Those big battery doors are functional, but bulky looking. Did you use anything to take up the gap between the batteries and straps? Some batteries are a little thinner and need some gap filling to keep the batteries from moving up and down. Easy fix though.

I would, especially if you still plan on running nitro. The 811e with the 2.0 is totally dialed.

The car looks fast sitting still

Jkoiva (or others),

Do you have the current limiter set on your RX8? I just built up an 811be 2.0 and installed an RX8 and T8 2050Kv. I have my limiter set at 90% but was curious as to if I could run with it off. I've only just finished and run it up and down the street a few times. I haven't even discharged the packs yet.

I would, especially with that size motor. You'll be doing a lot of wheel spinning which won't help much with lap times, but will help with grin times . I'd drop it down to 75 or so to start off with and go up or down as needed.