No it was binding with just the a arms attached, no load at all. I added some 25wt shock oil to the hinge pin and that helped. one is still not as smooth as I would like but maybe it will loosen up.


thanks

Yes the 2nd one is the stock chassis. I didn't know they made that other chassis, probably less flexible . I really like the color of the stock chassis, looks nice.

i be willing to bet a dollor that it your sway bar nuts to tight ;)

is there a reason why the the S811 and S811e, which have the same diff case part numbers, have the front diff placed in the opposite way round

S811 - the drive gear is on the right hand side of the car
S811E - the drive gear is on the left hand side of the car

It's so you wouldn't have to reverse your motor rotation in the ESC.....pretty clever those Serpent boys!

you guys think the savox 1258 servo is good enough for steering? Thinks its got 140oz of torque

Servo Torque
 

I run the Savox 1258 in my Losi SCTE which based off an 8th scale platform, but I'm told by friends running 8th a higher torque servo is required for these buggies.
I'm trying to decide between a Savox servo,
Or 2 different RadioPost servos.

The Torque model or the Multi model.

Torque Model,
torque @ 7.4V: 419 oz in
Speed: @ 7.4V: 0.09sec/60°

Multi Type Model
Torque:@ 7.4V: 305 oz in
Speed:@ 7.4V: 0.07sec/60°

In my 10th scale buggies and SC truck the Multi Model is perfect.

Any input from the Snake Pit please :D

It has 166 oz personally I would go higher min 300 but that's me a lot of abuse worth making precautions I run the Savox HV ones over a year no issues at all that's 8 servos

300oz of torque for steering is plenty. I use a Hitec 7955 333oz @ I think .15 for speed. Probably slower than what most would like but I can't tell on the track between .15 and .08.

type of motor/esc combo for my 811 be
 

hey guys. i finally got enough $ to get my motor esc combo and a set of lipos, for batteries i chose the TRACK POWER 50 c 6200 mah 2s packs. i wanted a tekin RX system but my hobby shop sold out and all they had left was a castle creations mamba monster brushless power system 2200 kv motor. but i found that the motor is too long and will not fit in the space where it's supposed to go. it hits the left steering post,to my dissapointment. :(. i take it the Tekin motor is shorter. please help im going back to my hobby store to trade for the rx Tekin system, as they are the same price. has any one else have this problem or am i missing something. please help ... I've had this buggy for 3 months already and am itching to race it, divorce is a mutha F%@ka .any help greatly appreciated

hey try Mobil sythetic red grease on the pinion and outer:nod: diff gear. its very good and doesn't breakdown easy, Any auto store will carry it. I also use it to lube my diff o-rings and the back of washers to prevent leaking. a must have in your pit area

Not familiar with Castle motors but the Tekin doesn't have fitment issues, but make sure it's for the buggy and not truggy. You can tell by the KV rating - 1400,1700,1900,2050,2650. If it's not one of these, then it's for the truggy and you will have the same issues.

I didn't have the sway bar on earlier when it was binding. Now that everything is on (less shocks) its all binding.
I mean when I push the A Arms up, they will not go back down on there own.

So I loosened the sway bar nuts and BOOM! Free Willy!

Good call.

I was reading about this very thing in the Lose SCTE thread to get those diffs to stop leaking as well. I was thinking about this when I was building it but didn't want to stop everything and run to the store. I didn't read anything in this 100+ thread about the Serpent diffs leaking so I thought it wasn't necessary.

so they do leak eh?

The diffs are all put together now but I will take them apart after I break it in to change the diff fluids so I will give it a try.
I know a guy, who talked to a guy, who used to be a guy, who sold her SCTE just because the diffs leaked...je je je.. ;)yet there was a fix all along. DOH

Thanks

Anti-roll bar shaft set and wires
 

Has anyone tried this anti-roll bar shaft set and wires?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Bar-Shaft-Set

I really don't like the way the roll bars go and out, a real pain in the arse. wondering if this option is worth the upgrading too. Do the bars just slide in and out of it?