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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

PastaBoyNY 01-09-2012 06:14 PM

Coffee and Cake Time!!
 

Originally Posted by vito (Post 10145397)

Hey Vito, enjoy the Cake!! The truck is sweet too....good luck with it!

vito 01-09-2012 06:16 PM


Originally Posted by PastaBoyNY (Post 10147444)
Hey Vito, enjoy the Cake!! The truck is sweet too....good luck with it!

what motor do i put in there i just bash i have a mmp esc and thank you

Mizchief 01-09-2012 06:36 PM


Originally Posted by vito (Post 10147456)
what motor do i put in there i just bash i have a mmp esc and thank you

If just for bashing are you considering running a 3s setup? Maybe tough to find a 3s that fits just right. If just 2s and bashing, maybe good to go with the pro4 4600 so you can get tons of speed for those mega huge jumps. This truck can take it!

vito 01-09-2012 06:38 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 10147565)
If just for bashing are you considering running a 3s setup? Maybe tough to find a 3s that fits just right. If just 2s and bashing, maybe good to go with the pro4 4600 so you can get tons of speed for those mega huge jumps. This truck can take it!

my packs dont fit this kit

vito 01-09-2012 06:46 PM

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/u...a/DSCN1235.jpg
as you can see i need a new pack.

vito 01-09-2012 06:53 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 10147565)
If just for bashing are you considering running a 3s setup? Maybe tough to find a 3s that fits just right. If just 2s and bashing, maybe good to go with the pro4 4600 so you can get tons of speed for those mega huge jumps. This truck can take it!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Shaft-4600kVis this it ty?

Mizchief 01-09-2012 06:57 PM


Originally Posted by vito (Post 10147650)

Yep, would only recommend the 4600 for bashing as it will be a rocket! 4000kv would be better for racing since you would end up with smoother power delivery within the narrow rpm range you run on the track.

Drain Bamged SR 01-09-2012 07:03 PM

Parts Load (SPARES!!!)
 
i am looking at getting a Sc10 4x4 for PNB V but i would like to know what all i need to carry for spares since i will be away from the house and a LHS what all would recommend i went thru the list and i have a ton of spares and i need to slim down what from the guys who have had them for a while and raced them what are yall breaking. thank you for the question
scott

Chad Smith 01-09-2012 07:03 PM


Originally Posted by vito (Post 10147611)

You do not need a new pack. Why spend the extra $ when you can just use the saddles? All you would need to do is use extra foam spacers.

Also looking at the pic it sure looks like those packs will fit. Are you sliding the packs in on a angle?

vito 01-09-2012 07:07 PM

the way the wires come out the and they a super tight in the box

Steve737 01-09-2012 07:14 PM


Originally Posted by vito (Post 10147746)
the way the wires come out the and they a super tight in the box

I have Turnigy 5200mah packs that are tight getting in. (That's what he said)
It's so tight that I can't even use the stock battery holder. Saddle packs are definitely in my future, but in the meantime, I just deal with the tight fit.

Think of it this way, if it's tight to get in, there shouldn't be any way it falls out during your bashing...unless you get super crazy with it.

Farmer_John 01-09-2012 07:16 PM


Originally Posted by vito (Post 10147611)

You can run that saddle pack.

Just turn the packs so the jumper is to the outside, then your battery leads will rest inside the belt housing.

Sometimes you just have to think things through.

Now pick up a Castle 1410 3800kv and go bash.

PastaBoyNY 01-09-2012 07:37 PM

Absolutely!
 

Originally Posted by Farmer_John (Post 10147815)
You can run that saddle pack.

Just turn the packs so the jumper is to the outside, then your battery leads will rest inside the belt housing.

Sometimes you just have to think things through.

Now pick up a Castle 1410 3800kv and go bash.

+1 on the Castle....great little motor!

CoyoteSlash 01-09-2012 07:37 PM


Originally Posted by Farmer_John (Post 10143851)
The more precise term would be sweating. tin the male end, shove it in the female, apply heat. When you see the tinned end glisten, touch a bit more solder to the joint, the heat will draw it in.

better joint, no chance of a cold joint.

Though I'd imagine you knew that.

So you work for Hobby People?

Everyone's bragging about being able to power a tight corner with the Ball Diff.

I lost cornering with the diff, Any suggestions off the top before I take anyone's attention to a setup sheet?

No spacers

Front:35 Rear: 27.5
1.2

3x2block
Hazard Rims

Track was super sticky and was not traction rolling at all. But at the last 35% of the corner if I powered on, I would just shoot straight out of the corner as if I wasn't turning anymore. (250punces of torque and a BEC says I was still turning. =P )

I had this down before, but now it seems i'm starting from scratch. I'm okay tuning obviously, But I've never been keen on spacers and tierods. I never could really feel a difference, That being novice or not, I accept.

Anyway. Help appreciated. I can setup sheet the whole thing. If anyone's willing to look that much into it. Double appreciated.

Oh, and F-John, No: a LHS, not Hobby People.

vito 01-09-2012 07:43 PM

some have pic of the battey layout and the b44 parts ty


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