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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

Mizchief 01-04-2012 10:33 AM


Originally Posted by Thomas P (Post 10122737)
Ordered one truck today and a lot of spares..will use my Castle SCT Pro 4600 system..

Read about the Clutch basket system..does every racer run this?..it will only use 2s Lipo and that system..is this a must??

do not want to order anything that is not needed, please let me know

Tp

I think most are running the basket, or garodiscs or a combination of the two. I would hold off and get the center diff instead (mine is on it's way) and let the first batch of testers report their experiences with it.

Rawwolf 01-04-2012 10:38 AM

I have been kicking the idea around to get a 4x4. I dont think my batteries will stand up to the load that a 4x4 puts out. I just got back into the hobby a few months ago with sc10rs rtr and bought gens ace 30c 4000. I read that 40c is recommended. I think i missed my chance at a good deal on a used sc10 4x4 so i will have to wait till tax refund and just go new. Will these batteries hold up or will i just destroy them with a 4x4?

Mizchief 01-04-2012 10:45 AM


Originally Posted by Rawwolf (Post 10122801)
I have been kicking the idea around to get a 4x4. I dont think my batteries will stand up to the load that a 4x4 puts out. I just got back into the hobby a few months ago with sc10rs rtr and bought gens ace 30c 4000. I read that 40c is recommended. I think i missed my chance at a good deal on a used sc10 4x4 so i will have to wait till tax refund and just go new. Will these batteries hold up or will i just destroy them with a 4x4?

That would be 120A output, which I think is the upper end of what the MMP can handle and I haven't had an ESC heat issues. I think the truck pulls around 80A normally?

I think the batteries would be ok, but you may have run time and voltage sag issues depending on the quality of the battery.

Thomas P 01-04-2012 10:46 AM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 10122782)
garodiscs or it.

Mr, what is that ?

Makarrov 01-04-2012 10:48 AM

I posted a while back about a loud squealing noise coming from my truck and got some decent replies. Since then I've torn the truck apart and replaced every bearing, lubed every moving part and checked for clearance/binding but I still have that loud noise. What I did notice this time was a notch worn into the rear top shaft, right where the second washer sits on top of the thrust bearing. I thought maybe it was seizing up so I took all the ball bearing out, cleaned them up and lubed them. Even that didn't change anything.

The top shaft only has like 3 packs on it, that's part of the reason I noticed the wear this time. Any ideas what can be doing this? I can try and post a pic later if it'll help.

Krio 01-04-2012 10:49 AM

I originally had some gens ace 5000 mah 40c packs I was running when I first got the car and they were ok until I the pro4 motors came out. If you pick up a 5.5 550 motor you should be ok as long as you aren't on a high traction surface, but if you want to be a major player on a decent size track with traction you will puff that battery.

ps, there always seem to be a good number of used sc10 4x4's in the for sale thread here. Lots of guys expect them to drive perfectly out of the box or decide 20 minutes is too long to change a diff and just dump them, so I wouldn't say you missed an opportunity.

n8b 01-04-2012 11:01 AM


Originally Posted by Makarrov (Post 10122854)
I posted a while back about a loud squealing noise coming from my truck and got some decent replies. Since then I've torn the truck apart and replaced every bearing, lubed every moving part and checked for clearance/binding but I still have that loud noise. What I did notice this time was a notch worn into the rear top shaft, right where the second washer sits on top of the thrust bearing. I thought maybe it was seizing up so I took all the ball bearing out, cleaned them up and lubed them. Even that didn't change anything.

The top shaft only has like 3 packs on it, that's part of the reason I noticed the wear this time. Any ideas what can be doing this? I can try and post a pic later if it'll help.

On power or always?

FRONTI3R 01-04-2012 11:23 AM


Originally Posted by Thomas P (Post 10122848)
Mr, what is that ?

Here is a re-post for you:

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10088890)
This list is the "essential" list from my/our experience without breaking the bank. It only gets crazy from there on out. But the "crazy" stuff is awesome.

The Truck needs:
- Swaybars (front) (rear)
- Dif-oil changes (setup sheets)
- Springs (setup sheets) (front) (rear)
- can be bought individually.
- Chassis Brace
(CoyoteTech if you want a good price)
- Added and Balanced weight: This is a light truck, Helpful for Grip and when you're getting pushed around by Losi's. (not mandatory)



High End Suggestions:
- RCSHOX Garodisks
- RCSHOX Dual stage Pistons
- MTK Slipper Basket
- Exotek AL Chassis
- Reflex Racing Top Deck
- FT Shock upgrade Kit (front) (rear)
- AL Hex adapters

(AL: Aluminum)

PLUG: The CoyoteTech Chassis Brace is 15.00 shipped and is an easy bolt on "nearly" necessity for this Truck with the Belt flex that CraigMBA showed you guys from the relinked pictures. PM me if you're interested.

-

Try using the "Search this thread" on the top right of this thread!

Thomas P 01-04-2012 11:30 AM

You made it easy for me Mate, and i do thank you so much for all this info, i will look in to that...

EDIT: Ordered the Basket just now :)

skengines 01-04-2012 11:30 AM

I will be running with clutch basket (MTK) with a Pro4 4000.

I was wondering if I will have problems using the 540 motor using a 48 pitch.

per MTK's website
We have stripped out a couple of 48 pitch spur gears, so 32 pitch is only recommended. It is also recommended to start with the slipper nut flush with the shaft.

Per the AE manual it is recommended to use the 48 pitch for a 540 motor.

Cameron Kellogg 01-04-2012 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by skengines (Post 10122999)
I will be running with clutch basket (MTK) with a Pro4 4000.

I was wondering if I will have problems using the 540 motor using a 48 pitch.

per MTK's website
We have stripped out a couple of 48 pitch spur gears, so 32 pitch is only recommended. It is also recommended to start with the slipper nut flush with the shaft.

Per the AE manual it is recommended to use the 48 pitch for a 540 motor.

I have used 48p without issue and use a 540 2 pole motor. The slipper you need to set for your track, truck, and pad combo.

skengines 01-04-2012 11:42 AM

Great..Thanks

Just wondering since the site said there have been issues with the 48P with the Clutch Basket system.


Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg (Post 10123027)
I have used 48p without issue and use a 540 2 pole motor. The slipper you need to set for your track, truck, and pad combo.


Steve737 01-04-2012 11:48 AM

With stock shock oil (30/25), stock ride height, stock springs, and the medium sized sway bars front and rear, I'm having rollover issues on fast sweeping turns. My entry speeds aren't any faster than others, but I end up rolling. Is the middle swaybar too much? Is the ride height too high? Or should I just slow down? :(

Cameron Kellogg 01-04-2012 11:51 AM


Originally Posted by skengines (Post 10123045)
Great..Thanks

Just wondering since the site said there have been issues with the 48P with the Clutch Basket system.

48p can strip out easier of course and if you are the kind of guy that throttles up and lands on power then run the 32p. The only 48 spur I have stripped was when I was trying to bench set RCShox slipper pads. One RCshox slipper pad has more grip than 2 standard pads in my opion.

If you run on a high bite track you might want to try the RCShox pads. :tire:

Krio 01-04-2012 11:54 AM


Originally Posted by Steve737 (Post 10123066)
With stock shock oil (30/25), stock ride height, stock springs, and the medium sized sway bars front and rear, I'm having rollover issues on fast sweeping turns. My entry speeds aren't any faster than others, but I end up rolling. Is the middle swaybar too much? Is the ride height too high? Or should I just slow down? :(

Stock ride height doesn't mean much. Do you have a ride height gauge? I run my ride height around 20 to 22 mm's front and rear (measured at the front and back of the battery pack if you have a stick pack installed). Swaybars make you less likely to roll over, so you could bump up to the stiffer ones. I have the stiffest in the front with the middle bar in the rear.


Originally Posted by skengines (Post 10123045)
Great..Thanks

Just wondering since the site said there have been issues with the 48P with the Clutch Basket system.

The Pro4 4000 kv motor may be the size of a 540 motor, but it is so much more powerful you will strip a 48 pitch spur or wear it out very quickly. Plus it's hard to find 48 pitch pinions with a 5mm bore. Just stick to 32 pitch, grab some pinions from 13-16 and you'll be good to go.


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