SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
C'mon guys, take a step back and look what your bickering about. Yea, some of the guys on here make a snotty comment most of the time, so be it. Not everyone can be pleasant every minute of the day. And i do agree that the new commers to this forum, and truck, need to put some effort into searching for mods, and hopups and such. Its pretty damn annoying when atleast 2 people a day ask what the truck needs, when it was clearly stated 2 pages back, and another 2 pages before that, and so on ![flaming mad](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/angryfire.gif)
On a different subject, does anyone know why some axles have more threads than others? i bought some for spares, and they have atleast 3 less threads compared to my stock ones, which stick out of the wheel nut by about 2 threads.
![flaming mad](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/angryfire.gif)
On a different subject, does anyone know why some axles have more threads than others? i bought some for spares, and they have atleast 3 less threads compared to my stock ones, which stick out of the wheel nut by about 2 threads.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Unless they are sensored now, they will not make the same bottom end as a sensored Tekin motor. So, even if the claimed output is higher, it will not deliver the power as quickly, it just can't, it's the nature of sensorless.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
C'mon guys, take a step back and look what your bickering about. Yea, some of the guys on here make a snotty comment most of the time, so be it. Not everyone can be pleasant every minute of the day. And i do agree that the new commers to this forum, and truck, need to put some effort into searching for mods, and hopups and such. Its pretty damn annoying when atleast 2 people a day ask what the truck needs, when it was clearly stated 2 pages back, and another 2 pages before that, and so on ![flaming mad](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/angryfire.gif)
On a different subject, does anyone know why some axles have more threads than others? i bought some for spares, and they have atleast 3 less threads compared to my stock ones, which stick out of the wheel nut by about 2 threads.
![flaming mad](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/angryfire.gif)
On a different subject, does anyone know why some axles have more threads than others? i bought some for spares, and they have atleast 3 less threads compared to my stock ones, which stick out of the wheel nut by about 2 threads.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Chinese manufacturing quality standards.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
why not simply say "refer to page one" and be done with it? that is what i am doing on my thread, no need for the diva comments, just makes everyone look bad.
Cristian made a good point about gearing BL motors. i have been preaching it but the brushed mentality is engraved in our souls!! gearing down does not give you more TQ with a motor that has instant tq, it will actually take it away. All you are doing with a small pinion is lowering your top speed and/or changing your power band. Small track, big track it really doesnt matter, gear as high as you can and shoot for the sweet spot for temperature. I have found that 170ish is really good for the pro4. BL motors will accelerate quicker with a larger pinion due to the tq. on my e buggy i was having issues clearing some large doubles i had a 2200kv with 15t, lowered the pinion and it was worse. car just would not pull out of the corners, went to 17 and the motor ran cooler AND i had to lower my EPA 10% so i could drive it! It was that big of a difference and i have found the same on my SC. Food for thought, try it and see!
Cristian made a good point about gearing BL motors. i have been preaching it but the brushed mentality is engraved in our souls!! gearing down does not give you more TQ with a motor that has instant tq, it will actually take it away. All you are doing with a small pinion is lowering your top speed and/or changing your power band. Small track, big track it really doesnt matter, gear as high as you can and shoot for the sweet spot for temperature. I have found that 170ish is really good for the pro4. BL motors will accelerate quicker with a larger pinion due to the tq. on my e buggy i was having issues clearing some large doubles i had a 2200kv with 15t, lowered the pinion and it was worse. car just would not pull out of the corners, went to 17 and the motor ran cooler AND i had to lower my EPA 10% so i could drive it! It was that big of a difference and i have found the same on my SC. Food for thought, try it and see!
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It hasn't been updated since we all built our kits around 6 months ago.
Edit: by that I mean: It hasn't been updated with 'anything' bolt on "after" the truck is built. Which is 'almost' all of what people are asking. You know that.
Edit 2.0: If I had rights, I'd update it. But my posts of "summaries" are lost easily in these pages. I've done run downs probably 6 times and they're never seen again. /shrug
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bought the kit, and created a Frankenstein's monster, sort of. The electronics are from the RTR B4.1, which is a brushless Reedy 3300kv motor (540 can) and the XP SC450-BL Brushless ESC. I found out the Reedy 3300kv motor isn't enough for the 4x4. Either that or my gearing is way the hell off. My truck was thermalling off after 3-4 laps. No temp sensor, but it was super hot to the touch, both the motor and ESC.
For a tiny track, maybe 65x30, would this combo be alright? The fast laps are low 10's. I'm not trying to break the bank, but still would like something halfway decent. Thanks.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1410-3800kV The combo is a 550 can, which I know will fit.
For a tiny track, maybe 65x30, would this combo be alright? The fast laps are low 10's. I'm not trying to break the bank, but still would like something halfway decent. Thanks.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1410-3800kV The combo is a 550 can, which I know will fit.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
=
For a tiny track, maybe 65x30, would this combo be alright? The fast laps are low 10's. I'm not trying to break the bank, but still would like something halfway decent. Thanks.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1410-3800kV The combo is a 550 can, which I know will fit.
For a tiny track, maybe 65x30, would this combo be alright? The fast laps are low 10's. I'm not trying to break the bank, but still would like something halfway decent. Thanks.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1410-3800kV The combo is a 550 can, which I know will fit.
I "love" that motor. the Speed controller isn't "hawt" but it works fine.
It's sensorless but it does such a great job under power and temperature. It's a bullet proof setup if you're looking for quality non-hobbyking GARBAGE, but not wanting to kill your checking account.
Remember:
~Sensorless
~and the Speedo does not have a fan. (use the Motor fan and ziptie it on the Speedo. Stays ice cold)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
EDIT: That is 'not' a 550 can. It's the 540. The 550 can is the Mamba Max Pro SCT kit.
I "love" that motor. the Speed controller isn't "hawt" but it works fine.
It's sensorless but it does such a great job under power and temperature. It's a bullet proof setup if you're looking for quality non-hobbyking GARBAGE, but not wanting to kill your checking account.
Remember:
~Sensorless
~and the Speedo does not have a fan. (use the Motor fan and ziptie it on the Speedo. Stays ice cold)
I "love" that motor. the Speed controller isn't "hawt" but it works fine.
It's sensorless but it does such a great job under power and temperature. It's a bullet proof setup if you're looking for quality non-hobbyking GARBAGE, but not wanting to kill your checking account.
Remember:
~Sensorless
~and the Speedo does not have a fan. (use the Motor fan and ziptie it on the Speedo. Stays ice cold)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Keep it civil guys...
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i have thi system in my sc4x4 it flys.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Because 30% of the information is on page 1?
It hasn't been updated since we all built our kits around 6 months ago.
Edit: by that I mean: It hasn't been updated with 'anything' bolt on "after" the truck is built. Which is 'almost' all of what people are asking. You know that.
Edit 2.0: If I had rights, I'd update it. But my posts of "summaries" are lost easily in these pages. I've done run downs probably 6 times and they're never seen again. /shrug
It hasn't been updated since we all built our kits around 6 months ago.
Edit: by that I mean: It hasn't been updated with 'anything' bolt on "after" the truck is built. Which is 'almost' all of what people are asking. You know that.
Edit 2.0: If I had rights, I'd update it. But my posts of "summaries" are lost easily in these pages. I've done run downs probably 6 times and they're never seen again. /shrug
![Cool](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/cool.gif)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And there are parts the make the Truck work as intended.
~ Without some form of Chassis Brace, the truck is not running 'correctly'.
~ With 3k diff oil, you are not handling correctly with the "stock" slipper
~ Some Trucks required the basket in some form or another to even go "forward"
The other things, I will agree with. I stated in my big link post that was the case, but stating "out of the box" is good enough is plainly false for "average Joe" trying to get around the track faster than anyone else with any skill with an OFNA, Losi, or Durango.
This honestly isn't an attack. The simple fact is this Truck was purchased by thousands 6 months ago. Maybe a third of them still have that truck. It drove like ass out of the box for many many people. Making these hop-ups far more important than you think with your experience. You can drive the truck as is. Sooooooooooo many people could not.
Statistics show that alot of these hop-ups "are" in fact necessary. (I'm not talking about exotek, garodisks, dualstage, balldiff, etc) I mean stuff that makes this thing what they expect out of an AE product. Marcus' stuff for example makes this truck kick Losi ass. That's "different" and i'm applying it as such.
(badly ordered and alot of blabbering, I know)