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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 9952753)
I'm not knocking rcshox's product in any way. But as an alternative to the ACK bar wouldn't one be able to switch the stock bar around? I test fitted it last night and fits fights but you have to grind away the bell-crank like in the ACK bar install manual (which I am not willing to do right now). Granted it's not adjustable and probably no where near as good as the real thing but for those on a tight budget like me it might just work. I remember people did the reverse on the blitz to get more steering so there's no reason why it cant be done here.
Once again I think rcshox's solution is much better but this might work with no additional parts. |
Originally Posted by 4x4slasher
(Post 9953236)
so, after a time of arguing with myself, i finally picked up a sc10 4x4, am wanting to power it with a novak HV 6.5 turn and Novak HV Pro Esc, any recommendations for pinion, spur, upgrades?
try 15 first or 16t , may need to use a little boost too ... |
thanks, will give it a go
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Im going to be running a TENSHOCK S411 4600KV and a Hobby-wing XERUN SCT Pro ESC. Anyone familiar with any of this. what gearing should I use. Any advice for me Ext......
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9952997)
You can use the pin mod while using the clutch basket, I personally dont though. The real problem is the inconsistecy of the stock slipper pads, they do not supply the right amount of slip n grip. In most cases you need to lock them down to work without over heating the slipper assembly, but the garodiscs found at http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/i...hp?cPath=23_26 give you adustability between (too much slip and no grip) and (locked down). They are sold in sets of two(stock slipper assembly) and three(clutch basket assembly). the clutch basket shines on high grip tacks, which I do not run.
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Originally Posted by dougwalter911
(Post 9953447)
Im going to be running a TENSHOCK S411 4600KV and a Hobby-wing XERUN SCT Pro ESC. Anyone familiar with any of this. what gearing should I use. Any advice for me Ext......
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 9953270)
if you flip the stock bar you still have to grind the steering arms.
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Originally Posted by racerx1920
(Post 9953582)
how much and where do i have to grind off? i fliped my stock bar and the strearing is locked it will not turn. the rod end are hitting? do i have to grind the rod ends too?
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Just got done from a quick run in the street. Motor and ESC cool to the touch.... Slipper burned my hand :(. Clutch basket time!
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9953596)
If you look at the instructions posted of rcshox, it details where to gring material off. http://www.rcshox.com/instructions/ackbar-installation/
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Originally Posted by racerx1920
(Post 9953582)
how much and where do i have to grind off? i fliped my stock bar and the strearing is locked it will not turn. the rod end are hitting? do i have to grind the rod ends too?
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 9953641)
Just got done from a quick run in the street. Motor and ESC cool to the touch.... Slipper burned my hand :(. Clutch basket time!
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I changed the rear pivot to a TeamSTRC unit, on a hunch that the binding of the inner hinge pins had something to do with the A arms distorting. I haven't ran it long enough to know for sure, but my truck gained like 7mm of ride height by simply changing that part.
The rear arms were that bound up. And yes, the truck was clean before. I'd buy the front one if it had the delrin pivots installed in it. |
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 9953818)
garodiscs my friend!!
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 9953818)
garodiscs my friend!!
Clutch Basket. |
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