I've spent hours reading. I love it. I just don't understand why people have to change things that are perfectly fine the way they are. BUT, I am thinking about the chassis brace.

to each there own. have you really looked at my truck? I already use those points to mount my esc. and reciver box which do more good there than as a bracing point, your mounting points for the brace do not stop where the driveline flex comes from because your on the bulk head after the flex point. , this brace mounts at the areas that are moving inward and does keep both points stable, especially if your bashing and you keep hitting things. I'm not trying to take anything away from the other brace, if you run it and like it great. this is an option is much stronger , easier to install and remove since you dont have to take the motor out and lastly completely stops the driveline flex, which I hate no mattter how small. I was also working on an anti twisting brace but it ended up being more of a cage so I gave up.

Looks great to me Shapiro, now you can hit that
curb & things as hard as you wish ....:)

its a 4s 1/8 scale Mamba Monster system I run, so the batteries are in series. it would be sick though on a 2s system running parallel 10000mah with 180c!
I screwed receiver box to the under body tray mount, mounted esc to a piece of lexan then mountee it to the rear tray mounting point.( I used the factory tabs unjust cut the nipples off them.) by mounting the esc higher also gives me more airflow on it.

true true I have 3 of these now, is that overkill? :-)

Ack Bar
 

MantisWorx you did say you were going to be shipping out the first batch to all that pre ordered this friday right ?

Just received my exotek chassis what a beautiful piece . I ordered it late Monday night can't believe it got here so fast . I will assemble it tonight and test it tomorrow at the local indoor high bite clay track and report back tomorrow night .

I want to order those ackermans too.

I understand the location of your esc and all your weird stuff. But like I had 'just' said. There is no flex. bashing, racing, doesn't matter. (I stood on the effin' thing) My argument as I said is it's 'too' strong. Pointless strong. Installing takes 1 time of removing the rear of the truck, then you can use a nut to remove the brace from that point on. And "lastly" It 'does' stop driveline Flex. I combatted everything you just said in my previous post! :p

The Fact is, You have a SC-Frankenstein, and you made it work. i'm just saying, you're above and beyond overkill. Am I defending my brace? I won't deny a little. Because how you said it in the first post was saying it doesn't do it's job. Which it does. More than 150pounds worth of it's job. :smile:

No hard feelings, upset or anything. Only debating.


It's their nature. I'm with you on about 80% of it. But there are some things even if they seem 'ok' they can be so much better. That's how you compete right?


Yep

and so it begins.... :)

hey, what else is there todo between races?

Damn, I bet you can smoke the ebuggies with that setup :) Besides insane power, how does it handle with all the extra weight?

Garodiscs may be easier, but I think a 6mm shim will be a whole lot cheaper. Also, garodiscs don't address the issue really, unless they are actually thicker than the stock pads.

How do the aluminum plates wear with the garodiscs?

Some flex is good. I don't want the transmission cases taking all that force. My brace goes from the front underbody mount to the rear screw of the center web in the middle chassis piece. I'm hoping this leaves enough flex to take hard hits without enough to let the belt loose.

Left one is better in theory, but probably not by any significant amount.

Better than both would be a single shim of proper thickness. A single thicker shim won't flex as easily when side loaded by the pin.

Are there any good misc. shim, washer, screw, etc. kits out there for 1/10th rc? Or a combination of other kits that will have something to get me by when i need to McGyver something at the track?