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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

car_fixer 11-09-2011 08:04 PM

I know there were several sc10 4x4's in that race at loganville, 4 or more of them. The winner was driving mine thats how I know, also TQ. I did not know I would be able to see a vid mostly of my truck all by itself. There are alot of good drivers in this area, not me lol. The guy does some good vids!

sugs 11-09-2011 08:18 PM


Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 9889986)
Now to get back home and order the rest of my,hardware and make some dimensional changes. Do you guys want an original mount point?

Very curious what you come up with. Seems like the middle hole should be original. Then you could go more or less aggressive depending on needs.

CoyoteSlash 11-09-2011 08:55 PM

Quick Breakdown to Diffs
 
Okay. Here's my Method for quick 5 minute breakdowns to get to the diffs. Hope this helps some of you guys.

Quick Diff Removal Guide:
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5

You may try this and call me crazy, but once you can easily pop on and off those CVAs. This is literally a 5 minute diff removal. And you don't have parts strung out all over. Only 4 pieces. or "chunks" I should say. Lemme know if you guys have questions.

I got lazy and didn't want to do a video. Mostly because I have no one to hold the Cellphone Camera. :confused:

PanicRev 11-09-2011 09:32 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9891080)
I got my MTK basket today in the mail (ordered on Sunday), however the garodisks set isn't going to make it by race day, so with 2 HD and 2 standard pads to use what configuration do you recommend? I was thinking HD on the outsides and std. in the middle?


Run a HD pad for the front and 2 standars in the basket for the rear. Start with the nut flush with the end of the shaft. Unless your spring is toasted, then it's anybodys guess.

car_fixer 11-09-2011 09:47 PM

cyoteslash, nice breakdown on the diff removal.

jamr1130 11-09-2011 11:09 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9892005)
Okay. Here's my Method for quick 5 minute breakdowns to get to the diffs. Hope this helps some of you guys.

Quick Diff Removal Guide:
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5

You may try this and call me crazy, but once you can easily pop on and off those CVAs. This is literally a 5 minute diff removal. And you don't have parts strung out all over. Only 4 pieces. or "chunks" I should say. Lemme know if you guys have questions.

I got lazy and didn't want to do a video. Mostly because I have no one to hold the Cellphone Camera. :confused:

Nice instructions with great pics. That's just about how I tore down my rear end to do the pin mod and check for clicking noises. I only caught a snag as my inner hinge pins were stuck. Glad to know I'm doing it right.

CoyoteSlash 11-09-2011 11:53 PM


Originally Posted by jamr1130 (Post 9892282)
Nice instructions with great pics. That's just about how I tore down my rear end to do the pin mod and check for clicking noises. I only caught a snag as my inner hinge pins were stuck. Glad to know I'm doing it right.

Glad to do this stuff. I can do any other tutorials anyone needs too. I'm very proficient with Photoshop, and have no problem tearing my truck apart if a picture solves someone's confusion.

danielXIII 11-10-2011 12:40 AM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9892348)
Glad to do this stuff. I can do any other tutorials anyone needs too. I'm very proficient with Photoshop, and have no problem tearing my truck apart if a picture solves someone's confusion.

Good work, this definitely helps me! I just changed the diffs 30k front and 5 rear.

Thanks

moto44 11-10-2011 04:43 AM

Just about got my SC10 4x4 almost ready to go. Picking up my Tekin Pro 4 motor today what size pinion should I get? I run on a Medium size indoor clay track. Thanks

fastrc64 11-10-2011 04:49 AM

FYI clicking noise
 
just doing some maintenance on the truck before the MI state champs this weekend and trying new products :sneaky:

I made my truck transmission develop a clicking sound front and rear

how i did this was on the installation of the idler gear and main gear diff all you need to do is have one facing the wrong way ie

The following number sequence is how your gears should be installed in the gear case. if you don't install them right it will make a clicking noise because it won't aline where it is supposed to. ( won't be as free running as it should be)

1 top shaft in first

2 main gear diff with the flange facing in (same side as top shaft)

3 idler gear with the flange facing out (on the same side as the other gears )

this is something you might want to check and make sure you have them right

Mizchief 11-10-2011 04:53 AM


Originally Posted by zixxer (Post 9891452)
loganville is a good one ...you should come over and race with us sometime indoors

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeuHTAHh3Io

Where is that?

fastrc64 11-10-2011 04:56 AM


Originally Posted by moto44 (Post 9892704)
Just about got my SC10 4x4 almost ready to go. Picking up my Tekin Pro 4 motor today what size pinion should I get? I run on a Medium size indoor clay track. Thanks

which one the 3800, 4000, 4600, ?

symmetricon 11-10-2011 04:59 AM


Originally Posted by moto44 (Post 9892704)
Just about got my SC10 4x4 almost ready to go. Picking up my Tekin Pro 4 motor today what size pinion should I get? I run on a Medium size indoor clay track. Thanks

What kv?

symmetricon 11-10-2011 05:00 AM


Originally Posted by fastrc64 (Post 9892711)
just doing some maintenance on the truck before the MI state champs this weekend and trying new products :sneaky:

I made my truck transmission develop a clicking sound front and rear

how i did this was on the installation of the idler gear and main gear diff all you need to do is have one facing the wrong way ie

The following number sequence is how your gears should be installed in the gear case. if you don't install them right it will make a clicking noise because it won't aline where it is supposed to. ( won't be as free running as it should be)

1 top shaft in first

2 main gear diff with the flange facing in (same side as top shaft)

3 idler gear with the flange facing out (on the same side as the other gears )

this is something you might want to check and make sure you have them right

Good point, once the plastic wears in and settles, putting them together in a different way could be causing the noise

rickybobbyxxx 11-10-2011 05:10 AM

Well got 5200kv tenshock moter orderd, hopefully this isnt the begining of the end for my drivetrain lol


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