Originally Posted by msedsp (Post 9886492)

Can someone help advise me, my local track allows only specific motors and I'm not sure which to buy. I'm torn between a Tekin sc4x 5.5 and a Pro4 3300 (both allowed at this track) but which would be a better (faster) motor for all around (competetive if I go to other tracks).

Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4 (Post 9886503)

If and when I open up my diff to do this I'll take pics and do a little write up. I need someone to tell me what shims they're using.

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9883277)

Okay God Dammit...
This damned Rear diff situation is murdering my soul. Yes. This is "4cereal".

The diff is locking up on 1/4 of the rotation, binding to the point of actually causing the Diff to slip and rotate the Other joint the opposing direction while the Topshaft continues to spin. You'll notice, in the video. I'm spinning it at the same speed the entire time in half turns. I have narrowed it down to the actual Diff itself. (removing the Idler gear and reinstalling the Diff housing. It only binds after it's installed. I have loosened the Bolts, I can just squeeze the case with my hand gently and cause a slight bind. I've cleaned every inch of that housing, and replaced the bearings. There is 'no' rubbing indication anywhere inside the housing.

Video via ImageShack

This stuff is pretty obvious to me, and I've fixed every little thing up to this point without alot of assistance. (other than the slipper way back when. ugh) but this has got me confused. The only thing I haven't done is replace the Diff itself. Which isn't in the cards in my opinion only because the diff looks perfect. Ahh!

Originally Posted by msedsp (Post 9886551)

They only allow the 3300kv pro4, but they allow any 5.5 turn 550

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9886700)

Did anyone take a look? Still in bind world here.

Originally Posted by specgie (Post 9886797)

I'd say try testing with your front diff and see if it still does it with a different diff. Have you tried installing the diff and idler opposite of normal installation? Cleaning every tooth of the (defective)diff?

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9886832)

Yup! still binds exactly the same. The only thing I haven't done is try the front diff... Alright... alright... Here I go... :flaming:

Originally Posted by specgie (Post 9886851)

Sucks I know... this car ain't easy to rebuild/work on. A cordless driver helps, but still a pain(but you get used to) and the results are rewarding. But still sucks to diagnose/fix/rebuild blah. The other day spent 2 hours(with the truck already torn apart) just cleaning & refreshing the diffs,gears,cases etc. to yield a bind free truck. Sucks, but rewarding when ya got all the losi's in the rear view mirror at the track. :p:lol:

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9886865)

I've had the truck 3 days before release. (LHS Employee) and I've found great ways to get this apart faster. I can tear a Diff in 5 minutes. It's just... My truck's been in pieces for longer than ever before... and each piece not bolted on is laughing at me. ...It's an OCD thing I guess. :lol:

Edit: Diff's already out.

Originally Posted by BLbound (Post 9886748)

The Exotek chassis is now available...it's pricey @ $109.99 but a beauty!

Originally Posted by specgie (Post 9886797)

I'd say try testing with your front diff and see if it still does it with a different diff. Have you tried installing the diff and idler opposite of normal installation? Cleaning every tooth of the (defective)diff?

Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 9886904)

Can you do saddle pack with that? That is steep for a chassis. :o

Originally Posted by Vegatron75 (Post 9886474)

Ok, here ya go. There are 4 planet/spider gears in the diff. There are 2 sun/side gears in the diff.

Put a shim under 1 or both sun/side gears. There is already a shim under neath the pin, add 1 more shim.

Look at page 8-9 in the manual.