Started the build today with taking the diffs apart. No oil as many other also reported. But I have another problem. In one of the diffs it almost impossible to get the gears out... it is just like the pins (where the gear sits) are a bit too long for the case. It is also not as near as smooth as the other diff. I've put 5K oil in this diff but it has more resistance as the other diff with 7K in it. What to do? Should I shave some off the pin ends or contact AE support for another diff case?

Take your shocks apart! All 4 screws holding the shaft were loose, and NO loctite. One of the Shock caps had 2 bladders in it!

just ran my new truck for the first time and OMG this thing is awsome!!! I went out and bought some 10k diff fluid for the front though as i built it with 5k in front and rear.

I had to pop mine loose with a pick, they didn't just fall out like my 2wd. No big deal if they touch the case, the pins don't rotate. As long as they aren't so jammed in that they're ovaling the gear, they're fine.

Force em out and see if there is some casting flash or something in the nylon.

I had to use a good amount of force and a small flat screwdriver to get them out. And I mean real force... They were really really jammed in the diff case. This means they also had to be forced down into place when building the diff. I hope this is not representative for the rest of the kit...

I am intersted in what broke on these?

We had the opposite experience last night. 4 SC10 4x4's in the race, none broke, no issues (though one wheel nut did fall off), all finished top 5 including TQ and win.

Too many depressing race stories in here, so here's mine...


Finished assembly at the track, got 5 practice laps in then shock piston screw came off and made a mess. Fixed that and then a few more practice laps.

Qualified in the B-main out of maybe 15 entries total. I had to keep tightening the servo horn. $15 hobbypartz servo was glitching like crazy. But this tingling started in my fingers, and it started steering itself to the front of the B-main. Got bump to A-main (back to back main with no break!). Each lap I passed the drivers stand cosmic rays shot out the back and charged the hairs on my neck. As i watched it pass the competitors one by one, a sense of nirvanna swept over me, and the entire track and all spectators faded away, and it crossed the finish line in 1st place.

:smile: It was freaking miraculous! This is my first 4x4.

Then I let someone test it out after the race and the servo horn came off after maybe his 2nd lap. :eek:

I had the same problem. 1 diff they came out easy, the other diff i used a screwdriver to get the gears out. went with 30k front/ 5k rear.

If you shim it to the pin then the hexes won't snap into place and could strip out easier. If you shim it less, the slop will come back when you pull the wheel off and the hex comes off.

I think shims plus a blitz hex with set screw may be the solution. Don't overshim it or you get less engagement from the drive pin.

I am building mine soon but don't like what I have heard so far..

I'm heading to the track in a minute and i'll ask if their there. I don't necessisarly(sp) think these had anything to do with the truck it's self. Guy's were quick to build them and wanted to get to the track first! Losi guy's have their trucks dialed. I'm a nitro kinda guy so i don't pay that much attention. TIA

Sorry to hear that but that sounds like a user end error. The plastic is never strong enough to take the shear if the nut isn't fully seated. I almost did that but I fortunately caught it before it blew out

I did the only right thing... Disassembled the diff again (for the third or forth time) and took out the pins. Compared the two pins - one was significantly longer than the other. Nothing that can't be fixed though. Shaved off some material from both ends so the pins were equally long. Now they both were easy to drop in, just a little push.

Edit: Hmmm... the diff is still not as good as the other one... Start to suspect it has been permanently damaged by the long pin.

I think the losing the rear CVD pins is still due to the plastic hex. It doesn't 'snap' on the drive pin very positively which allows the axle to push in a mm or so where the CVD pin is no longer captured by the bearing. If you hold the plastic hex in and pull the axle, I bet you'll feel it click into place. A locking hex, or at least one that really snapped on would keep the axle from backing out I think.

If it's happening while driving, are you sure they put the crush tube between the bearings?

I agree completely, don't see this happening when wheels are bolted to the car.

Careful what words you use, the Losi fanboys are watching.:lol: