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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

BlueGlowBoy 10-04-2011 07:42 PM


Originally Posted by SourDieselX (Post 9740501)
that would be my dream radio, but in all honesty, for one I have only one RC, so ultimately would it benefit me? I really considered the m11x for those who have multiple RCs.

My 3PM-X Futaba has migrated through 4 different vehicles now. WAY better than any other radio I've personally owned.

Though that being said, there's that new radio company that has the full colour LCD screen...I'm hearing REALLY good things about them, and the radio surprisingly doesn't break the bank....

Odin544 10-04-2011 09:51 PM


Originally Posted by turbotron (Post 9738957)
alright guys, lets see if someone can help me. Im so frustrated i want to throw this thing in the trash can lol. im running a mamba max, sc401, and a associated 1015. the truck is awesome i love the power and now that i have the steering issue fixed im still stuck in a bind!! whenever i turn the steering all the way right and all the way left the trucks power cuts out. what the eff am i doing wrong? i know im new but shiiittttt this is getting confusing. Im running a glitch buster, do i need a castle bec? i can only drive straight and turn maybe 40% without it cutting out. As soon as its a full 100% the truck stops until i let off the steering. Do you guys know what it is? i will buy a bec if that will help.

enough said....

CraigMBA 10-04-2011 10:10 PM

I would highly suggest every user pull his/her A arms off every race day, and check for straightness...I changed my warped front ones and it's like I have an all new truck. It was downright evil off power before I fixed the bind in the front end.

jpure009 10-04-2011 10:51 PM

SPECTRUM PHONE #?
 

Originally Posted by beaven (Post 9740741)
check out a specktrum,good units and good factory service. they fixed two of mine,said there wasn't anything wrong with them, but changed circuit boards and antennas anyway...(?):D still at least they fixed them and didn't charge for their service and one was over a year old,i call that good service..:cool:


SPECTRUM PHONE# please??

Sofa King 10-04-2011 10:55 PM


Originally Posted by jpure009 (Post 9741891)
SPECTRUM PHONE# please??

http://www.spektrumrc.com/About/Contact.aspx

jpure009 10-04-2011 11:32 PM

Went to the track today, SC10 4x4 was fantastic, except..

I had my Sub-trim at 30L, which was a lil too much but could deal with it...

By the end of the day, i had to be 90L sub-trim to go straight...

Got home and looked at the servo, the screw going into the servo horn at the top(which i forgot to put locktight on), looks like it has backed out & is bent, I THINK???? It backed out just enough that the servo still had free range of motion, but anymore and it would cause binding while steering.

Could i have bent the MG at the top(outside) of the servo???

Taking apart 2morow..

THx

jpure009 10-04-2011 11:34 PM


Originally Posted by Odin544 (Post 9741747)
enough said....

turbotron,

Bro,
adjust EPA, and get a glitch buster, all good after that....


THX

racer1812 10-04-2011 11:40 PM


Originally Posted by jpure009 (Post 9741966)
turbotron,

Bro,
adjust EPA, and get a glitch buster, all good after that....


THX


if your EPA isn't set correctly you can have the issue described AND destroy your servo.

Artikbot 10-04-2011 11:42 PM

Exactly, put a big capacitor in the bind channel (such as a 4.7mF 10V, 105º if you want to ensure quality) and issue sorted.

If you plan on running more stuff out of the BEC though, you'll need an aux BEC. Hobbyking has the Turnigy 8-15A UBEC that doesn't even get warm.

CoyoteSlash 10-05-2011 12:11 AM

A Glitch Buster or Capacitor, etc - Will not stop the brown outs with a mamba max pro at full steer. mine browned out at 50% turn without a capac, and about 80% with one. Everything's solved with my BEC.

zzztech 10-05-2011 02:27 AM

Hi,

I just finished building and test run my new truck. It seems to sit pretty high. How can I adjust the ride height for front and rear? The manual mention something about the shocks but I'm not sure how to adjust? Do you need to change anything else?

Also what do the front and rear roll bar do? I found the steering to be very sensitive. Already dialed down to 75% with lots of expo. It seems to want to spin out at high speed ( not during acceleration, but straight down the main).

thx! :sweat:

Jstall7543 10-05-2011 03:41 AM


Originally Posted by zzztech (Post 9742191)
Hi,

I just finished building and test run my new truck. It seems to sit pretty high. How can I adjust the ride height for front and rear? The manual mention something about the shocks but I'm not sure how to adjust? Do you need to change anything else?

Also what do the front and rear roll bar do? I found the steering to be very sensitive. Already dialed down to 75% with lots of expo. It seems to want to spin out at high speed ( not during acceleration, but straight down the main).

thx! :sweat:

You set the ride height with the springs, there is a little round black thingy on top of the springs located on the threaded shock body turn it counter clock wise until the desired lower ride height is achieved. The sway bars remove sway.

Jstall7543 10-05-2011 03:52 AM


Originally Posted by jpure009 (Post 9741963)
Went to the track today, SC10 4x4 was fantastic, except..

I had my Sub-trim at 30L, which was a lil too much but could deal with it...

By the end of the day, i had to be 90L sub-trim to go straight...

Got home and looked at the servo, the screw going into the servo horn at the top(which i forgot to put locktight on), looks like it has backed out & is bent, I THINK???? It backed out just enough that the servo still had free range of motion, but anymore and it would cause binding while steering.

Could i have bent the MG at the top(outside) of the servo???

Taking apart 2morow..



THx

If your using a plastic horn then the servo should be ok, usually the plastic horn will strip out first. Only one way to find out, it's not that bad to tear down. Always loc tight the horn screw, on every servo and never have a problem. Just use a tiny tiny bit.

Artikbot 10-05-2011 06:23 AM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9742019)
A Glitch Buster or Capacitor, etc - Will not stop the brown outs with a mamba max pro at full steer. mine browned out at 50% turn without a capac, and about 80% with one. Everything's solved with my BEC.

Depends on the servo you run.

On my Savox 1251 and my previous BB BMS617DMG+HS the 4700uF 10V cap was more than enough.

I swapped it with a BEC because I plan on running some more stuff from it, and need the higher amp draw.

turbotron 10-05-2011 07:05 AM


Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy (Post 9739294)
Depending on which BEC you have, and how much current it supplies, you should be able to move it from your 2wd to your 4wd.

No, you cannot splice it into the speed control cable that plugs into the receiver. If you power your receiver from both the speed control and the BEC, then you will likely damage your receiver, and possibly your servo and speed control (and transponder).

You can do this two different ways that I can think of.
a) remove the red wire from your servo plug and wire that to the BEC. This will power your servo directly from the external BEC. The ESC can still power the receiver and transponder.
b) remove the red wire from the ESC's receiver connector. This will prevent the ESC from powering the RX. Make a connector for the BEC that uses a regular RX plug, but only uses the red and black wires. Plug the BEC into any empty channel on the RX. many RXs even have a spot that is specifically for the BEC. This will power the RX, Servo, Transponder, and any extra stuff you have that would normally pull power from the RX connection.

so if i use option A. everything would pretty much stay the same except i would unplug the red wire out of the servo and solder that onto the red wire of the bec in order for it to get power directly from the bec? thanks alot for helping me with this man.


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