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^ Stick with regular wheels. The only good thing about beadlocks, is they look cool. They add unnecessary weight/stress on the drivetrain and dirt gets in the tires pretty easy.
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running the clutch basket setup....
Love it love it love it love it! But DAMN... on tar, i can make it stand on the rear wheels anywhere in the throttle range... its rediculous. its impossible to give it the full beans... i love it! but i am going to need to pull the power back.. but how? the nut on the clutch is flush. i have no timing advance on the motor and esc. im running a little 12T pinion. not complaining. just wanting a little 'less'. |
Originally Posted by xDIEGOx
(Post 9696756)
^ Stick with regular wheels. The only good thing about beadlocks, is they look cool. They add unnecessary weight/stress on the drivetrain and dirt gets in the tires pretty easy.
dirt in my tires, I can swap tires at will at the track in like 5 minutes. I reuse my foams when I change tires. I have yet to see down side to them. They have saved me a tremendous amount of money because all I buy is tires. As far as weight, yes they are heavier, but with a 10.5 I haven't noticed a difference in performance. |
Originally Posted by MiDGet
(Post 9696886)
running the clutch basket setup....
Love it love it love it love it! But DAMN... on tar, i can make it stand on the rear wheels anywhere in the throttle range... its rediculous. its impossible to give it the full beans... i love it! but i am going to need to pull the power back.. but how? the nut on the clutch is flush. i have no timing advance on the motor and esc. im running a little 12T pinion. not complaining. just wanting a little 'less'. |
Hey guys, I finally got my beast fully assembled ( according to the kit instructions and tips on the first page of this post) but its been raining here for like 2 weeks straight and I have yet to drive it on a track. I have dumped 2 packs on the street just to make sure everything works and to adjust steering trim and minor stuff. I need a good starting set-up. I pretty much have the book set-up. The tracks I run range from loose to black groove and tight, technical to wide oper hammer down. Here is what I have now:
20t drive pullies both F and R Camber -1 all around Shock Oil 30 F and 25 R, 1.2mm pistons F and R 5k in both Diffs Ride Hight 26mm F and 28mm R Tekin RX8 with 4.5 550 motor Gearing 13/62 (32P) Also have 12 and 14. Temps at 140-150 after about 8 minutes of street running ( mostly full speed with body on) I got 3 full sets of tires JC Subcultures and DD's, and PL Calibers all on stock wheels. I am running everything stock ( ie. no hop ups or option parts) Sway bars are on order and will be added soon. Anybody have any sugestions. Diffs or shock oils, ride hights, what ever? I cant wait to run this thing on a track! |
Originally Posted by Jerm13
(Post 9697502)
Hey guys, I finally got my beast fully assembled ( according to the kit instructions and tips on the first page of this post) but its been raining here for like 2 weeks straight and I have yet to drive it on a track. I have dumped 2 packs on the street just to make sure everything works and to adjust steering trim and minor stuff. I need a good starting set-up. I pretty much have the book set-up. The tracks I run range from loose to black groove and tight, technical to wide oper hammer down. Here is what I have now:
20t drive pullies both F and R Camber -1 all around Shock Oil 30 F and 25 R, 1.2mm pistons F and R 5k in both Diffs Ride Hight 26mm F and 28mm R Tekin RX8 with 4.5 550 motor Gearing 13/62 (32P) Also have 12 and 14. Temps at 140-150 after about 8 minutes of street running ( mostly full speed with body on) I got 3 full sets of tires JC Subcultures and DD's, and PL Calibers all on stock wheels. I am running everything stock ( ie. no hop ups or option parts) Sway bars are on order and will be added soon. Anybody have any sugestions. Diffs or shock oils, ride hights, what ever? I cant wait to run this thing on a track! |
i found that the emulsion shocks felt better than the bladder style.
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Originally Posted by captaindemo17
(Post 9697648)
i found that the emulsion shocks felt better than the bladder style.
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9697655)
+1 to that. the bladder style seem to pack to easily, causing the truck to bounce all over in the rough stuff.
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Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 9697674)
The stock bladders are way too stiff and only get worse with age. I ended up using the bladders from another 13 mm shock and it feels so much better.
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my bladders were crap from the get go. i had to replace them before even running the truck. The bladder shocks were good but the track i run on didnt favor that type of shock. It was a night and day difference just by changing from bladder to emulsion. Over all the truck is good but i am going to try another brand as this thing isnt a gem to work on
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9697680)
What or which bladders?
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 9691971)
That makes me laugh a little. .10 is mooooooore than fast enough.
I don't understand the 'too fast' argument. If it's twitchy on the straight, add a bit of expo, but I want reaction as fast as possible to recover if the rear end is loose or to fly it if you're pitched from a bad or in turn launch. You're in the air for ~ .5 seconds at a time in the rhythm sections and on the ground even less in them. |
Originally Posted by Mark K
(Post 9697362)
Ummm no it doesn't. I've been running them on my 2wd sc and they r great. I dont get
dirt in my tires, I can swap tires at will at the track in like 5 minutes. I reuse my foams when I change tires. I have yet to see down side to them. They have saved me a tremendous amount of money because all I buy is tires. As far as weight, yes they are heavier, but with a 10.5 I haven't noticed a difference in performance. Seriously, with the softer compound tires, I see guys in 17.5 2w having problems unbeading tires, not where they fall completely off, but where they have to work on tires every round remounting them on beadlocks. I am curious what tires/compounds you are running with success at your local track. I think you could run the kit tires with beadlocks no sweat. It is pretty easy to reuse CA style wheels if you trim the tire down to the beads first, and then cook them at a heavy boil for about 15 minutes. Let them cool, and then spear the remaining bead with a fork. Peals right off, the remaining CA flakes off with minimal effort. |
Originally Posted by TocSin
(Post 9697714)
I said it should be perfect :) .10 is right in the middle of my personal steering servo 'range' and acceptable doesn't = bad. I wouldn't run slower than a .13 for steering in anything, and I usually aim for .08 on most of my 1/10 scale rigs.
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