5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
09-05-2011, 06:44 AM
#7201
09-05-2011, 07:04 AM
#7202
I tried a Viper 540 6.5 geared 17/93 on an outdoor track that is about 115x65. The motor was brand new never even saw a practice lap. I was on a tq run and at about 4 min 15 seconds that motor melted down. It was around 200 when I temped it. My friend was also running a 540 7.5 in his coming off around 200 every run so why does the lrp keep in truckin but the viper puked on its 1st pack? This has made me scared to try another 540. The motor ran awesome for the 4 minutes it did run. It had more grunt and top end then the sc4x 5.5 I was running previous. I would like to give the 540 another chance but I do not want to smoke another motor. I already have a NEW Tekin 540 6.5
09-05-2011, 07:06 AM
#7203
you do have to hit the throttle
I run 15 minutes max with the 3800 4-pole 5600mah 50c 2s ip stickpack
09-05-2011, 07:33 AM
#7205
Between about 20 and 50 pages back there were some of you who came up with some home-made chassis braces/stiffeners to help minimize the excessive flex of the chassis which in-turn affects the belt drive especially on front end crashes (or lawn darts).
Just want to know of the 3 or so pics that I have seen posted on here so far, how many more of you have done it and is it really something you would consider necessary especially if one often runs on big outdoor 1/8th Scale type tracks with the big jumps? I know with all things considered this truck is quite durable but I just wonder how big a problem this chassis flex really is and if this fix is highly recommended not just as a preventative measure but for better handling as well?
Lastly, for those that have installed them, I'm just curious to know if there are alternative placement options as to where the brace should go or is it limited to a specific section of the chassis to maximize its effect?
Any info, thoughts, comments and experience you guys could share would be very much appreciated! Thanks!
Just want to know of the 3 or so pics that I have seen posted on here so far, how many more of you have done it and is it really something you would consider necessary especially if one often runs on big outdoor 1/8th Scale type tracks with the big jumps? I know with all things considered this truck is quite durable but I just wonder how big a problem this chassis flex really is and if this fix is highly recommended not just as a preventative measure but for better handling as well?
Lastly, for those that have installed them, I'm just curious to know if there are alternative placement options as to where the brace should go or is it limited to a specific section of the chassis to maximize its effect?
Any info, thoughts, comments and experience you guys could share would be very much appreciated! Thanks!
09-05-2011, 07:56 AM
#7206
Tech Regular
iTrader: (36)
I run a Novak Ballistic 540 6.5 turn motor with the 14mm tuning rotor. I need to pull the cover and look but I'm sure I'm running a 15tooth pinion (48p). I come off the track at 150 degrees after a 6 minute heat. I don't run timing yet as I'm ok with the power for now.
09-05-2011, 07:58 AM
#7207
Between about 20 and 50 pages back there were some of you who came up with some home-made chassis braces/stiffeners to help minimize the excessive flex of the chassis which in-turn affects the belt drive especially on front end crashes (or lawn darts).
Just want to know of the 3 or so pics that I have seen posted on here so far, how many more of you have done it and is it really something you would consider necessary especially if one often runs on big outdoor 1/8th Scale type tracks with the big jumps?
Just want to know of the 3 or so pics that I have seen posted on here so far, how many more of you have done it and is it really something you would consider necessary especially if one often runs on big outdoor 1/8th Scale type tracks with the big jumps?
09-05-2011, 08:12 AM
#7208
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
So I noticed when the truck is turning (full lock) (had the belt cover off) the belt will tighten gradually, then to a point where its so tight that it'll almost skip (a pop noise). Then it'll return to normal again.
Only when its turning, straight away the car/belt is smooth. The front cva seems fine, not bent. So what's going on here? chassis flex?
Only when its turning, straight away the car/belt is smooth. The front cva seems fine, not bent. So what's going on here? chassis flex?
09-05-2011, 08:56 AM
#7209
So I noticed when the truck is turning (full lock) (had the belt cover off) the belt will tighten gradually, then to a point where its so tight that it'll almost skip (a pop noise). Then it'll return to normal again.
Only when its turning, straight away the car/belt is smooth. The front cva seems fine, not bent. So what's going on here? chassis flex?
Only when its turning, straight away the car/belt is smooth. The front cva seems fine, not bent. So what's going on here? chassis flex?
09-05-2011, 08:59 AM
#7210
I run a Novak Ballistic 540 6.5 turn motor with the 14mm tuning rotor. I need to pull the cover and look but I'm sure I'm running a 15tooth pinion (48p). I come off the track at 150 degrees after a 6 minute heat. I don't run timing yet as I'm ok with the power for now.
09-05-2011, 09:34 AM
#7211
I tried a Viper 540 6.5 geared 17/93 on an outdoor track that is about 115x65. The motor was brand new never even saw a practice lap. I was on a tq run and at about 4 min 15 seconds that motor melted down. It was around 200 when I temped it. My friend was also running a 540 7.5 in his coming off around 200 every run so why does the lrp keep in truckin but the viper puked on its 1st pack? This has made me scared to try another 540. The motor ran awesome for the 4 minutes it did run. It had more grunt and top end then the sc4x 5.5 I was running previous. I would like to give the 540 another chance but I do not want to smoke another motor. I already have a NEW Tekin 540 6.5
One thing I heard using the Tekin RSpro is that if you are in sensor mode and have it at zero the speed control still has 15 deg of timing added. Something about the speed control using the sensor can see the rotor coming. You have to be in blinky mode or duel mode for zero timing. I notice my motor ran hotter in sensor mode. Not sure if other brands have this problem too.
09-05-2011, 10:03 AM
#7212
Tech Adept
I believe I was running a 18 or 19 tooth with my 3800 540. But that was a 3800...
I am temped to try the chassis stiffener that people are using.
I shredded the 48p gears and am now running 12 or 13t/62 with a 3.3 90c pack. I get about 12 minute run times. Pack is warm when I take it off.
I am temped to try the chassis stiffener that people are using.
I shredded the 48p gears and am now running 12 or 13t/62 with a 3.3 90c pack. I get about 12 minute run times. Pack is warm when I take it off.
09-05-2011, 10:10 AM
#7214
Hey Jorge, YES that was a great race we had! I haven't had a race like that in a long time! My reason to go to 27.5 & with yellows in the rear was actually to get a little more steering. Running 25wt with blues in the rear gave me too much rear traction. Yes, I'm running all HT slipper pads in the basket. I want to try 20k in the front diff instead of 30k but I was not motivated enough to take out the front diff 
.
.
09-05-2011, 10:19 AM
#7215
what do you guys think about MOD1 spur gears for this truck? i can easily make them. i run one on my kyosho RB5, they are actually quieter than the 48p and you will not shred them!