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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 9522498)
I wouldn't dream of telling Junkie to put what he doesn't want on his rig. Please... Not the lotion again...
PS: telling someone they're wrong about something that has been directly involved in winning more races than you or I ever will, is pretty laughable. Quality/USA or not. |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9522501)
Dude, you need to learn to recognize sarcasm and a jovial tone when you read it. Get over yourself. Seriously.
------- Barry, Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but the timing on those is technically cheating. You shouldn't be increasing the timing at all. Unless you're bashing. |
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 9522498)
Those FT Hex hubs really help that annoying bind issue when the plastic hexes are actually snapped onto the Pin. It wasn't a super issue for my kit, but these make it really nice. This issue is really bunching my undies. I have tried new wheel nuts, tightened them right up, applied tyre glue, tried lock tight etc, but they still come undone. More so on the rear wheels than the fronts. I can't last a 5min race without getting wobbly rear wheels. Anyone else have this problem? |
tyre gluing
Also, what size tyre mounting bands should I be getting for this truck - will 1/8th scale bands work???
Thanks in advance. |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9522425)
Hey, ThunderbirdJunkie doesn't like their chintzy fake Chinese polycarbonate with bubbles, striations, and unmelted resin in it, or their fragile wheels, or their tires. If you want to argue about it, go start another thread. ThunderbirdJunkie will continue to like companies that make stuff here, in the US, that is higher quality....for the same price as the JC stuff. It's bad enough our SC10 4ws are made outside of this country and has QC issues, don't try to convince ThunderbirdJunkie to put more crap on it from outside this country.
Or do you really mean that. Are you that guy that thinks that made in the USA is always the best / superior ? And everything else is bad? So any issue with the sc10 4x4 is the cause of beeing produced outside the USA ? |
JConcepts is a Florida-based R/C design and manufacturing company. Owner and president, Jason Ruona, has been involved with Radio Control cars since the 1980's. Early beginnings include building and driving such vehicles as the Tamiya Clod Buster, the Team Losi JRX-T and Associated RC10 and RC10T. The 1990's were spent as a Team Associated travel team driver racing at events all around the world. Now, decades later, Ruona is proudly selling quality kits, bodies, tires and accessories to R/C racers around the world.
Accolades for the company's products in both gas and electric include: IFMAR World Champion ROAR Modified National Champion European Champion Cactus Classic Champion Hot Rod Shootout Champion Losi Race Champion ROAR Stock National Champion |
Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron
(Post 9522559)
Quick question for everyone out there regarding the FT hexes: will this stop my wheel nuts from undoing themselves every 5 laps?
This issue is really bunching my undies. I have tried new wheel nuts, tightened them right up, applied tyre glue, tried lock tight etc, but they still come undone. More so on the rear wheels than the fronts. I can't last a 5min race without getting wobbly rear wheels. Anyone else have this problem? I like the ofna aluminum serrated nuts from NitroHouse, they stay tight! look in the SC10 4x4 parts section. never had one of these back off! |
Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron
(Post 9522559)
Quick question for everyone out there regarding the FT hexes: will this stop my wheel nuts from undoing themselves every 5 laps?
This issue is really bunching my undies. I have tried new wheel nuts, tightened them right up, applied tyre glue, tried lock tight etc, but they still come undone. More so on the rear wheels than the fronts. I can't last a 5min race without getting wobbly rear wheels. Anyone else have this problem? (edit, those nitro house would work too, i'm sure) |
Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron
(Post 9522559)
Quick question for everyone out there regarding the FT hexes: will this stop my wheel nuts from undoing themselves every 5 laps?
This issue is really bunching my undies. I have tried new wheel nuts, tightened them right up, applied tyre glue, tried lock tight etc, but they still come undone. More so on the rear wheels than the fronts. I can't last a 5min race without getting wobbly rear wheels. Anyone else have this problem? |
Just tried a new method (for me) to make venting holes in tires already mounted. Just take your beloved dremel out and put an engrave tool in it. Pinch the tire on its sides then you will not get any foam insert. Carefully drill a hole with the dremel. Extremely fast and easy, and the holes are nice and round. This will be my method from now on.
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I ran my truck for the first time yesterday, and was not very impressed with the stock setup. I felt the car was too unpredictable (I think this is because of too much body roll and front/rear weight transfer), and despite it's very responsive and massive (ie, too much) steering, had a very hard push in tight corner.
I run on your generic med traction smooth clay outdoor track with a very tight and technical layout. The truck is completely stock. I have a set of sways on the way as well as a set of aka enduros. I think what I want to do is; take away some high speed steering, either add low speed steering or make it possible to break the back end loose to get it around tight turns, and reduce roll and weight transfer. What are some things I should look at to accomplish this? The sways will help the roll, but is there a way to reduce roll without sways? I'm thinking about going to stiffer springs to reduce the weight transfer. It sounds like running a thicker front diff fluid will help take away some steering. Will that help or hurt my low speed steering? If I make it easier to break the back end loose, I worry I'll reduce the overall stability of the truck. Am I on the right track with my thinking? Help would be appreciated. I have seen what this truck is capable of doing and can't wait to get it dialed! |
I just mounted a set of Aka rebars to some de wheels,i just noticed I have
No vent holes in thewheels,i run on wet med bite clay so I don't have to worry about dirt getting in,but as far as venting or no venting will it change the handling with holes or no holes? |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9522425)
Hey, ThunderbirdJunkie doesn't like their chintzy fake Chinese polycarbonate with bubbles, striations, and unmelted resin in it, or their fragile wheels, or their tires. If you want to argue about it, go start another thread. ThunderbirdJunkie will continue to like companies that make stuff here, in the US, that is higher quality....for the same price as the JC stuff. It's bad enough our SC10 4ws are made outside of this country and has QC issues, don't try to convince ThunderbirdJunkie to put more crap on it from outside this country.
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With open cell foams it will change drastically. With closed cell foams, not much of a difference.
Must foams are closed cell nowadays, so it shouldn't really make that much of a difference. I run with no holes at all, only inner side of the tyre glued to the rim, the outer side stays in by pressure. Air kinda vents a lil' bit through there, I don't have any issues with the tyres coming out of the rims, and there's no dirt going inside. |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9522501)
Dude, you need to learn to recognize sarcasm and a jovial tone when you read it. Get over yourself. Seriously.
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