Let's see some pics of the outer slipper pad in a clutch basket.

I am curious how they look compared to mine

I will take my pic at lunch


Man it works great, I used to get destroyed off the line by the 1/8 buggies, er the 3 diff pro4 trucks. Not anymore

The arm mounts are cool, with the delrin inserts, but the hub carriers and caster blocks (at least in ThunderbirdJunkie's personal experience) on the XXX-SCT and SC10 2w develop slop in the bearing area in addition to the hingepin holes.

That being said...he may consider picking some of the rear hub carriers up in .5 degree flavor.

I liked the ectec inserts I had in the past for my MBX5 back in the day, they were made so that you needed only one mount for the various settings (instead of the two STRC is using). Too bad they couldn't of made them like that.

Well I've got over $400 in lightening mods on my losi and where I run my Sc10 4x4 does faster laps bone stock on 3800kv, With less motor. Lol! I've got around 25 more batteries on the losi. Weird! I will admit I spent 3 years driving sc10 2x4 rtr and mod FT version. I'm loving it box stock except for tires and a couple settings. The more I drive it the harder I can push it! Good luck to ya!

Is it just me ? The plastic cartridge that holds the o-rings is giving me fits threading into the alum. body. Anyone else experiencing this ? This is not my first rodeo and I have not striped them out as I refuse to force them as I can seem them start to tilt. All four are responding the same way.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Maybe this can help


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-qlH...e_gdata_player

+ YouTube Video

Is any body having a problem with running a tekin sc4x 5.5 motor in their sc10 4x4? Even with timing advanced mine runs slow. I am using a 13/60.
Thanks for any suggestions!

Are you having heat issues? If so could be binding issues check all drive train and gears.

I had this same problem with the factory team shock kits. I've emailed ae about it since after finally getting mine in both my front shocks are leaving some.
After i had my dilemma with my shocks someone on here wrote that ae recommended removing the first thread from the plastic cartridge i guess. maybe try doing a search. probably around 10-20 pages back.

Its 91090, the first part in that image is the slipper thrust spacer, then the slipper thrust bearing, and then the slipper thrust washer.. The manual as that image shows has just one slipper thrust washer, put one or two more of those washers there if you are slipping excessively, its better to put the washers there than putting them between the slipper plate and spring imo..


Some put that slipper thrust spacer in backwards causing a heap of more issues, like melting your slipper assembly and spur...







Check your spacer bc based on your pics it seems that i can see the lip of the slipper thrust spacer sticking out, which if so would indicate that it was assembled incorrectly, and causing your slipper issues..Page 27 of the manual shows in which way the spacer should be assembled, with the lip going into the shaft housing (not out as it seems your photo shows, which I have done and seen others do causing major slipper problems, including excessive slipping, excessive slipper heat, melting spurs and pads with no regard)..

MarqueeRc thinks its worth checking [/QUOTE]

The washer and all of the slipper is installed and always was installed correctly. I checked when this originally happened and after your reply, Marquee. I used a second spring cap (for the locknut to have a seat on the spring) on the end of the shaft, tighened it almost to full compression and I have torque now. What my question is, is WHAT is constructed or machined wrong? I want my truck working properly for racing so I can adjust from there. This "fix" is not leaving me with ANY play at all. Anyone? (please refer to pics on pages 395-6.)

I guess I just thought it was something obvious since I bought all the new hardware and it didn't fix the issue. But the Slipper system IS installed correctly. I have checked multiple times.


Thanks in advance!

It has been said that the slipper thrust spacer was not machined correctly or to spec size...Some, apperently were machined a tad smaller than others..
How many slipper thrust spacers are you using?

If anyone races at wcrc what's the diff oil wt is best there for front and back?

I run at WCRC, I'm currently running 30k in the front and 7k in the rear. Previously I was running 15k front and 5k rear, it didn't feel right. Current set up is great!!

60/60 is awesome.

There are four fixes, all of them with slight trade offs.

1. The washers in the thrust bearing (part 91090) are too thin from the factory. Add washers there, I think they are quarter inch. Be careful to not add too many as this fix will cause misalignment in the belt.

2. Some claim the outside slipper plate (part 7485) is mis-machined at the center, and the center part causes an interference with the top shaft. This allows you to only tighten it down till it it hits the top shaft. Further compressing the spring doesn't get any more pressure on the slipper. You can check to see if yours has this problem by marking the top shaft with the slipper installed, and then disassembling the slipper, and re-install in the plate to the mark. Clearance as needed.

3. Break down for $35 and buy the Mac The Knife slipper basket and be happy.

4. Shelf the truck till AE gets the update parts out.

All of these are well documented in this thread. In the future, I suggest trying this:



I swear, you are bound to save time and frustration.