I run 15/62 on my Castle 1410 and it comes off around 150-160

I think a 12/62 would be appropriate for teh 1415/Tekin 4.5 motors. That's what the manual says. Just temp it to make sure.

yea it was the pin that holds cva back out 1/4 inch hiting the plastic hub this was on the front and the belt could be slipping

I got one of the last batch of releases, and I just finished the build last night. I would of waited to make my first post till I finished but I didn't want to put it together and find out the front gear box had to come out AGAIN. :o But no problem. A couple of observations:

• My diffs were not bone dry. They weren't as full as I got them either, but they had adequate fluid in them where I'm pretty sure you wouldn't grenade them right out of the box.
  
• My shock shafts all had thread locker on them, and were all full of oil.
  
• No missing parts, no extra parts either!
  
• Gluing tires up is a snap if you use battery strapping tape instead of rubber bands
  
• The stock fan from a Novak GTB fits perfect in the spot formerly occupied by the receiver box if you want to cool the motor. You can only get the top two screws in, the bottom ones are in a mold line and you really can't tap there. The cutout is roughly the size of a quarter, and it's a lot easier to do if you decide you want to add it before you put the truck together, else you have to blow up the truck to get access for making the hole.

A couple of questions for guys racing these, as I haven't ran dirt since 1994 (been racing carpet and concrete oval):

1. How long is the thrust spacer (the one that was mismachined) supposed to be? When I used to set the slipper on my XX and XXT I would tighten the screw untill the spring was crushed, and then back it off two turns. Without adding washers, the stock topshaft doesn't have enough adjustment to allow for that (with the washers it was okay). I'm asking because I don't know if AE updated the part on the later kits.
   
2. What is up with all those little holes on the inside of the wheels? I put a drop of CA in each one of them (because I read somewhere they are added to help glue up the bead) but do they really work or are they just an extra big trap to induce dirt into the tire?
   
3. My truck needed 3mm of outside uptravel limiters to keep the CVAs out of the outdrivers. What did everyone else use?
   
4. Does anybody run the dust boots, like, anywhere or ever?
   
5. Likewise, Mud flaps, yea or neigh?

See Comments in BLUE

this is for all of you with blue shock bodies that are turning silver from the spring rubbing.


http://www.2wdrc.com/2wdrc/images/DDP/Springs.jpg

Thinking more on this, 1/8 on road comes to mind, especially electric versions which have no slipper, run similar sized belts and probably put out more power??

More power, but they don't have the sudden jolt on the drive train from landing large jumps with the throttle wide open....

IF the driver had immaculate throttle control, you could probably do it (I race my 4x4 1/10th buggy with no slipper, but only on a REALLY loose surface...) but since 99% of us aren't that good, a slipper is a good way to prevent you from breaking something every other battery pack.

Good point. With my 1/8's, when running nitro I'd quite often have full power on landings, swapping to electric, I've changed my style, so no power to make it easier on the motor.

Ran the Trackstar O rings in my rig this past weekend and they worked fine. No leaks and definitly smoother than the stock X-rings.

Ran the truck again, the 30k wt in the front made a real nice difference. :nod:

Added another 1/4 oz to front to help level it off.

Having big time belt slip issues. Belt slid off the front pulley and bent up the side of the pulley that keeps it on. I'll have to replace that and the belt.

Went against an Ofna today with an experienced driver, fun times. When I made a mistake and had to catch up my truck reeled him in FAST. The acceleration on this truck is amazing. I love the way it can get over bumps so fast and easy too.

I think I'm going to drop the rear end 2-3 mm to help get rear traction when I blast down the straights, it gets a little squirrely.

It could be because I'm only running 3k back there. Anybody running thicker weight oil in the back?

Man trying to find sway bars is a pain

Make them, not too hard to do, if I can do it, trust me you can too LOL

I have the 11 on mine and after a 5 to 6 minute run i pull my truck off and its usually between 150-160 degrees. I need to get the 12 tooth pinion to try it out and see the difference. Dave was saying that the guys running the 4.5 motors are mostly running the 12 tooth pinion. With the 5.5 i would think the 13 would be good.

Had this happen to me in the Main. 3 heats, seem to be okay, it the main, first lap came to the end of the straight away, it the break a little hard to get through the sweeper to the double, pop. belt came off. One of my pit mates took it apart, we believe it was the break force that might have been doing it. we got it back together, ran it pretty hard and not slip. We backed off the brake force to 25% on esc and 89 on the controller. I did order a new belt and pulley just in case. but again we ran it pretty hard and did not pop off. Again thanks to fastpede for checking it out with me.

I'm running a 11 tooth, 11/62 works great with 4.5.