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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

imrob 09-02-2013 06:42 PM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12509344)
Suppose to be a spacer on both sides of top shaft.

robbie

Install bearings inside gear case first ,make sure both bearings are seated flush & then install top shaft.:)

Anybody got a good link on anti squat and how to adjust it right. looking to start on that part of the car now. or also a link on jacking and how to fix that would be great too we have a lot of guy at the track that get it in the 2wd class and none of know how to fix it lol.

fq06 09-02-2013 07:29 PM


Originally Posted by imrob (Post 12509499)
Anybody got a good link on anti squat and how to adjust it right. looking to start on that part of the car now. or also a link on jacking and how to fix that would be great too we have a lot of guy at the track that get it in the 2wd class and none of know how to fix it lol.

Hudy set up guide explains it and how to adjust among other very useful tuning info.

Wild Cherry 09-02-2013 08:30 PM


Originally Posted by imrob (Post 12509499)
Anybody got a good link on anti squat and how to adjust it right. looking to start on that part of the car now. or also a link on jacking and how to fix that would be great too we have a lot of guy at the track that get it in the 2wd class and none of know how to fix it lol.

can't adjust anti squat on the sc 10 4x4, comes with 2 degree..

may be a after market part that offers some adjustment.

what's wrong with your rides anti squat ?

fq06 09-02-2013 09:02 PM

Haven't driven this truck in a long time but from memory there are different rear toe blocks that have 2 different anti squat options.

Wild Cherry 09-02-2013 09:29 PM

Your right 06 , my bad...

Fotgot

Comes with 3-2 & 3-3 rear toe blocks.

fq06 09-02-2013 09:41 PM

Everyone that I've known to try the 3-2 went back to 3-3. Maybe carpet or some super high bite surface would warrant 3-2.

Wild Cherry 09-02-2013 09:49 PM

06

forgot all about the part , will be pulling out of pit bag tomorrow.

been looking for more rotation on sharp 180 turns.

Just might help.

fq06 09-02-2013 09:56 PM

You will get more rotation for sure.

Cody227 09-03-2013 04:06 AM


Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 12510100)
Everyone that I've known to try the 3-2 went back to 3-3. Maybe carpet or some super high bite surface would warrant 3-2.

I tried 3-3 on very bumpy med/high bite a single time and went back to the 3-2 immediatly xD

fq06 09-03-2013 06:07 AM

Maybe I'm backwards, been a while.

Wild Cherry 09-03-2013 09:58 AM

Not backwards 06

my trucks rotation is about a 1/3 slower then the B4 ,so any improvement could shave a few tenths off my lap times.

You guys know what I'm talking about, trucks drag from extra CVA & belt make like a brake slowing down corner speed.

MantisWorx 09-03-2013 10:38 AM


Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 12510100)
Everyone that I've known to try the 3-2 went back to 3-3. Maybe carpet or some super high bite surface would warrant 3-2.


thats opposite , the more antissquat you add the more initial rear traction you get but the truck will tend to rotate more on entry, on a rough track you want less anti squat because as you accelerate it stiffens the rear making the truck hard to control "on throttle" through rough patches, but off power it is better. So in a nutshell on a rough track you want less antisquat and on a smooth track you want more anti squat, which will give you more on power steering.

Cain 09-03-2013 10:42 AM


Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 12510698)
Maybe I'm backwards, been a while.

Here is what Hudy says on Anti-squat:


REAR ANTI-SQUAT ANGLE CHARACTERISTICS

Less anti-squat (fl atter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track

More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks
Another Source:

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...ng-anti-squat/


What is Anti-Squat?

Anti-Squat is best described as Caster for the rear wheels…it changes the relation of the inner hinge pins parallel to the ground. The more anti-squat the vehicle has, the less the suspension will squat during acceleration. Anti-Squat is most effective from a stand-still.
Navigation Arrow Tuning with Anti-Squat

Most vehicles allow the adjustment of Anti-Squat in similar ways: somehow adjusting the height of the front or rear hingepin mounts of the rear suspension arms.

Adding Anti-Squat will make the car Squat less during acceleration. This will cause your car to track straight on straightaways. It will also make your car push coming out of corners, but loose entering corners.

Less Anti-Squat will result in the opposite: a little less forward traction, more stable entering corners, and will track through bumpy sections much better.
And here is some info from AE's setup guide:

http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...HandbookV2.pdf


Anti-squat adjustments are available on the rear of most modern buggies and trucks. Anti-squat is typically adjusted by either replacing the rear suspension arm mounts, or placing washers or wedges under one end or the other of the mount before tightening the mounting screws. This results in a change in lifting the front edge of the arm higher than the rear edge.

Anti-squat does exactly what you might guess by its name, it prevents the rear end of the car from squatting under power as the car accelerates and weight transfers rearwards. Anti-squat does also have some other effects (as with any adjustment, there’s always a trade off). Let’s take a look at the effect of altering anti-squat on both acceleration and cornering.

Increasing Anti-squat. If you add anti-squat, your car will (in general) get more ‘driving traction’ and hence accelerate faster. When you come out of corners, you will be able to use more throttle and your car will be more stable. But (and it’s a big But), when you back off to turn into a corner, your
car will have less rear grip. This might result in you spinning out when you back off the throttle. Adding anti-squat also affects the way your car drives through bumps on the track. If the track is bumpy right where you want to accelerate, anti-squat is not a good thing, it will make the rear of your car very ‘bouncy.’ On the other hand, if the rough stuff is in a place where you are cruising on constant throttle, or even decelerating, then anti-squat will actually help your car to ‘cruise’ through the bumps more smoothly.

Decreasing Anti-squat. When you decrease anti-squat you lose rear ‘driving’ traction. Your car will be a little more prone to power slides and fishtails. However, you will have more traction on a trailing throttle, resulting in your car being more stable into corners. It will also accelerate better through bumpy parts of the track.
I drive very "on-power" so the higher antisquat settings have worked well for me on my Tekno, but I didn't like how 3-3 felt on my SC10 4x4. Go Figure.

Wild Cherry 09-03-2013 10:48 AM

Simplified version

More squat = more forward bite & less side bite

Less squat = more side bite & less forward bite

Less squat is smoother on the bumps.

:tire:

Cain 09-03-2013 10:48 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12511307)
Not backwards 06

my trucks rotation is about a 1/3 slower then the B4 ,so any improvement could shave a few tenths off my lap times.

You guys know what I'm talking about, trucks drag from extra CVA & belt make like a brake slowing down corner speed.

Curious, how fast is the rotation without the +8mm Mod as far as the hub risers go?


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