I ended up using the shoe too that thing isn't coming off there now thanks again for the info

The "coupled" slipper hub is an option part that ties the front and rear drivetrain together, and eliminates the variable slipping action of the stock "decoupled" VTS. The power of the motor is applied equally to both the front and rear drivetrain, they will always spin at the same speed irregardless of the traction conditions. The stock configuration allows some "slippage" between the front and the rear drivetrains, meaning they will spin at different speeds depending on the traction conditions encountered.

Just finished up our indoor winter/spring series. The sc10 4x4 did great. We are on a very tight indoor track and was able to take the series win the sc10 4x4. Lots of mip losi's, regular losi's, and a few tekno's and durangos. Overall a good year of racing. It was nice to be on something different then most and pull off some wins. Settled on Kinwald's setup but with the coupled slipper.

My conclusions are:
Maifield's setup is a good starting point for bigger outdoor
Kinwald's setup is a good starting point for tighter indoor

The truck can turn, but doesn't handle the rough as well as the triple diff trucks. Its not very stable while braking over rough stuff, especially when running maifields setup. The locked coupler and no center diff will put the truck on its nose when braking hard over the rough. The truck set the lap record our tight indoor track, with the mip losi's getting within 2/10ths of a second.

Durability is awesome... I've replaced a rear diff and a rear idler gear in 1.5 years of racing, usually at least 6 battery packs a week.

I would say that if you are from a 1/10 2wd background then you will have a higher chance of success with this truck. It drives more like a 2wd than other 4wd shortcourse trucks IMO.

Just thought I'd post a sc10 4x4 success story... don't hear too many.

I did just pick up a 2.0 to try something new. I'll be hanging on to this truck just in case.

Plus 1 Imb

Love my Sc10

Best ride I had in my racing career .
Cheap to race
Fast
Win's most of our local Nw events.

Watched Cantrell complete the lowered steering servo.

Worked out great, lower the servo bout 7mm..

the mod also eliminates the stock servo blocks
and are replaced with the Blue Ae b4 mounts


Will give my ride this mod .

Looks like factory

Can you post pics.

Maybe Cantrell can post some images.
Easy & fun to do

Grind X brace off chassis

Position servo with b4 mounts on

Mark holes & drill chassis .

Mount servo

first race with the 4x4
 

i has a great time with my first race of the season. had 92 entries today at are track.there were 7sct classes i think cause of the number off people. i made the c main we had two quails. the first quail i had a bad battery i thought it was not charged up enough so i ran for 4 minutes almost. second quill i moved the rear shock to middle hole on the tweet and was dialed in next thing i know the battery dies again. they went right to the Mains after the 2nd quail cause we running behinde. i boworred.a battery from another guy started 9th came in 3rd for the c main. this is a large outdoor lose to medium traction not to bad for my first time out with my truck.i had one guy say this truck sucks. but he got stuck in like the d main with his tecno kinda of funny right.any ways i can't with till my next race got to pick up a lipo charger and a lipo since the nhim stick died.and all this was with a stock truck no upgrade not even the brace.i do have sways bar on the truck.i'm very pleased with it so far.

I found out why my diff wouldn't spin smoothly. One of the diff bearings wasn't fully seated on the diff and was a little crooked so every half turn it was stiff. Replaced the bearing and clean the seat then drove it home firmly and squarely. Diff is much smoother now.
After discovering front diff issues I thought I better check the rear. One off the diff bearings was completely seized and had started to melt the diff case!
The original bearings have been replaced now with new aftermarket ones and I replaced the diff case.
Looking forwarded to getting it back out on the track.
Check your bearings folks, these big 4 pole motors will power through the friction but the car suffers.

Speaking on diffs, just getting my truck together, what oil do i want in the diffs?

Gonna be running the RCshox center diff btw.


Thanks, Krom.

I would say start with:

7K - 10K Front
5K Rear
4 pins

Does anybody know where i can get a aluminum servo horn for a hitec on a sc10 4x4?

Ill try an get pics up tomorrow!

Also played with body hight, after lowering my ride hight to 20 fr\rr rubing the tires was noticed. Raised the body by a hole and felt tippy. So went back to the standard low body mount.

This summer I am going to make more attempts to get my SC10 4x4 competitive. I plan to pick up the M2C rear toe block and the RC Shox Center diff next. I am running dual shory packs with a Novak Havoc ProSC/Ballistic 550 4.5t combo. I will be implementing the lowered servo mount as well.

Instead of the Exotek chassis I am designing a carbon fiber insert that will locate the dual shorty packs and extend through the bulkheads in the front and rear sections to add rigidity to the chassis. The three piece chassis really needs to be upgraded to a single piece IMHO. I hope to have something worth posting in July.

I'm glad to see so many people working hard to get this chassis working for them. There are so many aspects that I like about this chassis and a few that I don't like. I would really like to see an upgraded kit from AE someday that addresses some of the short-comings in a fairly large redesign. Hey I can dream right?

Pros: Aspects that I like
1) General suspension design: arms, links, hardware, geometry, sway bars, etc.
2) Hub designs, bearings and CVA shafts
3) Shock towers and body mounts
4) General Bumper mounts and design
5) Low CG chassis with kick up front and rear
6) Commonality with the 2WD SC10 platform for body, wheels etc.

Cons: Stuff I would love to see addressed in an upgrade
1) One piece chassis... merge the three pieces into one. even create an aluminum plate design
2) Focus on saddle pack or dual shorty design for battery layout. I have found that most of the best performing electric 4WD designs have a balanced battery layout. Batteries are a large portion of the weight of a car so the split pack or saddle layout provides the best balance side-to-side. Think if the B44 layout and it's balance. I have seen so many people modify other chassis to this layout.
3) New rear hubs that incorporate higher camber link positions
4) Upgraded front and rear hinge pin holders to provide more tuning options. RC8.2 style aluminum plates with inserts to increase toe or kick up would be nice.
5) Modified front bumper and skid plate to reinforce the lower portion to reduce deformation from impact.
6) Center diff? I have not had experience with this yet but so many people have expressed that this truck really responds when they upgrade to the RC Shox center diff.

I would love to suggest a more extensive redesign to switch from belt drive to shaft drive and a true fluid tune-able gear based center diff. This would be a much larger change which would require new Diffs, transmission cases, steering linkage, out-drive design and shafts, motor mounting and center diff design, chassis layout and a ton of development. I just feel that the base architecture is sound and some changes to bring in the designs that have worked in the past like the B44 and even RC8.2 chassis designs. A forward mounted motor opposite the steering servo and a saddle pack aft seems to work well.