have to remove the bumper , ft trans , ft chassis brace , ft clip ...

no short cuts really ...
some use the electric driver

Ya, the ballistic's are pretty good motors after the rotor de laminates and you put sleeve retainer on it to fix it. I had 2 de laminate because novak hardley put any glue on it. Permatex sleeve retainer works like a champ for ever, good to over 500F. Same stuff they use to sleeve engine blocks. Easy fix! Im not sure what novak used but it didn't hold up on two of the motors I had and they never temped over 150f. This guy at the track had a brand new one de laminate and I told him I could fix it in less than 10 min and he didn't believe me so I did and that was a year ago and he's still running it.

Here is how I do it. Take off the front slipper cover ,take off all the pully parts and slip off belt, losen all three screws on the diff case then just take off the top back screw that goes thru the diff case and that top plate that servo is connected to, then unscrew the chassis brace, then the 2 screws on each side that holds the top plate to the chassis the ones right before the battery compartment, then I turn the wheels all the way left so you can get the screw on the steering arm the one that comes off the servo horn, then you just pull it off. May have said it confusing but it's the quickest way I found to do it prob 3 minutes with hand tools to take off and do it a lot practice Makes perfect.

+1 This^^^is how I do it too.

Just put in the vtx8 with a 2650 t8 (replaced my MM & 2650) in and WoW that ESC is baddddd assssssss .... I may even jump down to my old sc4x 4.5 and see what it does with all the tuning I can do now! Looks like my old MM system is going in my RC10 :-)

Raced the 4x4 today, it ran good, if I could only drive better!

Anyway - I had some good laps, in the second heat I started out bad (actually really bad) the guy who got TQ was lapping me after about 5 laps. But I then followed right behind him for the rest of the race. He was running either Losi or Techno (not sure) but I pretty much stuck right on his bumper. This is a large 1/8 outdoor track that has gotten pretty bumpy and didn't have great traction. So for the haters, the truck can hang with the other brands even on the big tracks.

That being said the guy who won the main (TQ broke) was driving a brand new Techno (put it together last night), did zero tuning and hadn't ever raced on our track, he also hasn't raced much short course. So, I would say that right now the Techno has to be at the top of the pack as an out-of-the-box racer.

If I didn't love my Associated I would take a real long look at the Techno.

Any by the way, I made about 1/8 lap for the main - wrecked and speedo came loose. I had to do a last minute switch, as in pull speedo from another car and install in truck with 3 minutes until my race. Didn't get the tape down good.

Thank you for the Tip!!

I got to race the PINK tonight , been more then a month last ..

Good time .....:):)



Munch

The Sc10 4x4 is really good !

You don't need a new ride , just a tune up ...



the set-up has become even more refined , drives better then ever ..;)

Ck John W's set-up posted on www.rc10.com..
I suggest to try 6 mm instead 4mm under the rear stud ...


rest of the set-up do ...


Very balance , consistent, carry's great corner speed...

cool car

Cherry, so your running 6mm at the hub only and zero on the tower? Ive been running 4mm inside and out side at four seasons and I can drift the sweeper perfect. I am running +3mm hazard wheels with jconcepts pressure points. I just switched to blue springs all the way around because I have lightened my truck to the extreme and yellow springs all the way around it seems to springy. No added weights.

I just installed the M2C toe block with low roll center and 3.5 deg toe. I'll be there at noon tomorrow for a couple batteries and some testing. So many changes I hope it works good. Also bought some m3 ion's but I'm holding off on testing those.

This is sc10 4x4 currently if you happen to see it, hit me up.
http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/w...310_010848.jpg

How you got the front bumper to stick out in front of that Proline Flotek body? I have one of those bodies and the bumper was slightly under the body which created no protection for the body. If I tried to move the body back the wheel wells and wheels/tires looked out of align.

Jstall

Your ride is look-n DIALED !

BTW Tomorrow we are building the new layout at Trcr ...;)

I usually use 7mm of spacers under the rear chassis stud ..
If you use less ?
Side bite will increase..

I tried 4mm yesterday , the truck would roll over with out warning very easily .

Trying fewer spacers amaze me just how much the 8mm camber helps control traction rolls ...

You should not need extra rear toe at Trcr , will be better with 3 degree..

Out door on dusty tracks with less then good traction try 3.5.

Remember, extra rear toe brings grip, but...
The bumps will grow in size when you use , truck will feel bumpier .

Im not sure how I got the bumper to stick out but it does on all 4 of my flowtek bodies. I just drilled for sc10 like the instructions say to do and it worked out like that.

I'm going to Four Seasons for testing at noon. Thanks for the info cherry.

Bumper stick out On this one too.
http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/w...310_102320.jpg