I only really noticed that my truck was less prone to traction rolling so guessing with the sway bars and 8mm mod that it has my truck running at a lower cg

sorry I put it in my original post I'm running the 3.5 setting but and I have flipped the inserts up so its running -1 squat my piston are stock pistons but my truck is jumping and landing fine the only issue it jumps nose high so I have to correct it in the air. I'm going to put 2 oz of weight in the front by servo to help bring the nose down and make the truck jump more balanced. I just had the track director who is one of the best if not the best driver here drive it. He said its a nice truck very nimble and has great steering and is very planted its just nose high on jumps. So after watching him run 3 laps perfectly, I'm sure 80% of my problem is being a noob:sweat:

cool. Was this comparing stock hub height position but same inner ball stud height? From what I experienced when trying to correct traction rolling on carpet, raising the inner ball stud height cured it.

No worries I just wanted to make sure to know what you were seeing. Without having the truck anymore, wasn't sure seeing if there instructions were right since the angled seemed odd when trying the .75 settings. But thats great if it does work out.

well figured out why my pinion came off friday because it did today again, the grub screw threads are shot, it will tighten up but won't stay tight even with locktite. Finally got my truck handling nicely and the pinion comes off and in the process it shredded the teeth of my only center diff v.2 spur gear. Bought a new pinion and I have 2 new rc shox v.1 diff spurs can I get away running the the v.1 diff spur gear just swap out the v.2 and minus the loss of the pins everything else is the same?

Ae

Don't advise to use thread lock on the grub screw, only will make removing more difficult or even impossible...

Yes, v1 will work. Will lose performance though so order up a couple v2 spurs asap. Grab some extra pins too while your paying to ship the spurs so it doesn't cost $5 just to ship the pins later.

I've used a slight dab of thread lock on all of my pinions on all of my cars for years. Never had a pinion come loose during a race and NEVER had a hard time removing one. If any of you feel safer doing this, no fear. Of course be sure to use blue thread lock and not red.

+1 on slight dab on the set screw. The time when it becomes hard to remove usually is when you get threadlock all over the pinion and motor shaft.

it actually can make it hard to get the pinion to stay on If you have too much thread lock as it doesn't set correctly in the timeframe when you need it.

You definitely don't want RED unless you are using the pinion in some condition where heat can factor in to keep the pinion on, like metal to metal setups, spur gear to pinion. I have seen that happen all of 1 time, and the motor shaft being slick had a lot to do with that.

Definitely order spares of the spurs, at least 2 in addition to your replacement one.

Is it normal to have shock collar heights (left to right) be at significantly different settings in order to get ride height set equally from side to side? I am wondering if this is just due to L/R weight distribution (ie RX8 and motor on same side vs only receiver on the other.... running front saddle pack exotek setup). Want to make sure there ismt some other issue causing the big difference in shock collar adjustment from left to right (mainly in rear, but some difference in front too)

I have a new FT SC10 4x4 listed in the for sale section. If anyone is interested please search for it in there. I had hoped to race this truck but work has prevented me from even putting it together. Thanks again for all of the info in this thread.

Putting a link up might help..

Anytime I use RED locktite, I plan for it to come apart never. You have to use heat to break it down and get it apart.

In the shop, it's not a big deal on something like farm equipment. I can just use a torch.

Ae

More important to use a decent 2.0 mm driver then using lock tight..

a tip....

I would say what you state in theory makes sense ... Do you have any scales you can throw it on?

Unfortunately not so I figured I would ask those on the forum here to see what there experience is with this. I was thinking that many just check ride height at a single point for front and rear measurements and not actually check left and right sides of both front and rear to verify lean based on uneven weight distribution. I would think iris important to not only have it set correctly at the center point of the chassis but also equalized towards edges but thisis only my guess and was hoping someone with good setup experience would set me straight.

Your on the right track.