Right - am I the first Norwegian to chime in here? Think so... Anyway, here's my list of candy currently learning to fly around the globe:

• AE SC10 4x4
• Tekin RX8
• Tekin Redline SC4X 4.5T
• Savox SC-1258TG
• 32 pitch pinions - 12, 13 og 14.
• A few bits
• Preglued ProLine Calibers

Snatched one up yesterday at a well known US webshop with no preorder. :D Can't wait to get started on the build. Just needs to pass this thing through customs first...

And of course this piece of art from Larry at KG is also on it's way:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...t/IM000396.jpg

So i got mine finished today!

I think there is an error in the manual. I had MASSIVE camber on the front, i had followed everything correctly, double checked, and triple checked with a mate.

The manual says on page 14 to put the ballstuds in the inner holes,
Then page 18 has the measurements of the camber and steering links.

This resulted in having massive camber, im guessing it was a mistake in the manual, it seems if you use the outer holes it will be a lot closer to having the correct camber?.

We ended up using a camber gauge and worked it out.

Secondly: Turnigy 5200 Hard Case Batteries dont fit too well at all, i know alot of people out here run those and will need new batteries for this car, they are too high and needed a screwdriver to remove them. The turnigy soft packs fit, but are a tight fit,even cut some off the rx tray but it didnt help with the wires. The soft packs dont fit with the turnigy label facing down, they just dont pop in, but work with the label facing up, then the wire is on the opposite side.

The reedy 1 cell 5200 packs fitted perfectly, like they were made for it.

Has no one else ran into this? Can anyone confirm if im right?

Yes. I had massive camber I'n front too. Same solution, but must be a misprint I'n manual.

Also, I set the clicker on, did anyone else try that? Just anxious to see if the sounds I'm hearing are right? Lol.

Also, does anyone have too much play I'n your rear cvd's. The way the bearing holds the pin, I had to shim and shim to get it to fit and not throw the cvd pins. Also having same trouble w 12 mm hex hubs falling off. Lost 1 pin already and haven't been off workbench...:-(. But well worth it if these are the only problems. Still LOVIN this thing.

Just about finished mine. Not a single problem and everything went together perfect. I wasn't missing anything. It definitely was a smooth and super easy build. Check your diffs. Mine were pretty much empty. Great job AE on a superb truck!!!!!!!

Thanks for confirming, maybe that should be posted in the first post.

Jang also noted it in his video, (linked to exact time he mentions it)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...pwOGxc#t=7m13s

Hey AE. Can you confirm what is wrong in the manual?

Are the ballstuds in the wrong hole?
Or are the measurements swapped, between camber and steering, in the manual?

Im running clicker, it is loud!

I have to say the hex hubs suck, they could atleast snap around the pin like other cars, i can see rpm or strc making some better ones for this in the future.

As stated before, if you push the axle into the hex, the pin will snap into place and not fall out.

i didn't have a problem with sc10 2x4, and no torque involved. barley snug. tightened and backed of 1/2 a turn, doesn't matter, also doesn't explain the crunchy diffs. guess I'll have to fill the gaps with shoe goo or silicone sealer.

I would suspect it could be the aluminum spacers used on the top shaft and seems to be the problem that was encountered on my B4 top shaft. I used a stack of shims to make a spacer and it worked. It spins freely with the case fully tightened. The stock spacers can be a hair too long and doesn't allow the case to fully tighten and binds the bearings.

I have to dissagree, my kids SC10 ran the Castle SCT/3800 combo...esc never temped over 110, motor never over 100.

off topic, an rs pro will drive unsensored motors? I didn't know that.

***edit, just noticed first page has this info. thanks***

What FDR should I gear for? I didn't see any recommendations for 540 motors.

I have a Novak 6.5 Lite and installed a 15T pinion to start. Haven't tried it but wanted to go on the safe side. It has the stock 93T spur.

15T a good choice or should I be trying for a different FDR?

Thanks

battery sizes
 

can anyone say what size batterys fit in this, max width length and height, trying to see if the batterys i have fit or not before i buy one

If you look closely, you will see that in the manual the first load the gears into the right-side of the transmission case, in the video they are loading the gears into the left side of the transmission case.

So, both the manual and the video are correct, the just built them in a slightly different way.

Well, Tekin has posted that they recommend using the RC8 rather than the RS Pro. However, somebody posted here that they talked to Tekin and Tekin told him the RS Pro would be fine.

Since the RX8 is cheaper than the RS Pro I would use that. You'll have that little extra bit of confidence that you won't have any ESC problems.

Craig