Rick recommended the Reedy 4.0 when we briefly discussed the torque levels in comparison to Pro4 motors which make more initial torque. His tips have it such that if I decide to give it a try, I may pick up the 4.0 for outdoors.

As for trying the 3300 with taller gearing and timing, the thing I ran into with the 4000 was that on the SC10 4x4 at least, I kind of hit a wall with gearing where the temps would get really high. I found that dropping the gearing a tooth or two with minimal timing added in helped A LOT. (like 5 degrees).

It's $150 on amain.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-4500kV

My local track is selling these for $169 It's a 4 pole 550 system.
Cheapest route for 4wd short course racing. I bet it runs just as good as a more expensive system.

I think a lot of it has to do with the now motor. Just like when the scte came out everyone dumped there scrt10 and sc10 4x4. Same with the new tekno, every losi pony dropped there "nothing better" scte.for the sct410. Wait till the scte 2.0 comes out you'll see the sct410's on the f/s. The pro4 are the now motor. Everyone wants one. Wait till the pro4 HD comes out the pro4 will hit the f/s. I bought my ballistic 5.5 after a basher had it over a year in a heavy scrt10. I cleansed it out and it runs like.a champ. Keeps up with the rest no problem.

On a side note. Anyone know how.to remove the bearings from the ballistic 550? I bought replacement bearings but they don't just fall out to replace lol.

I recently switched from 550 can motors to a pro4 4000kv and I couldn't be happier. I started out with ballistic 5.5 550 then got a 4.5 550 and the power was good but on the small tracks I run on in the NW the weight of the 550 had a negative effect on handleing for me, pendulum effect. I switched to a 1410 3800 and it stayed in the truck for a year, then I got the pro4 4000kv and feel like its the best motor for me. I also feel like the 4.5 sucks in my sc10 4x4 but is ridiculous in my scte. Everyone likes something different.
In order for the reedy 4.0 550 to work you must have the best batteries you can get and you must be able to use that kind of power. I've seen my buddy running the reedy 4.0 in the pro4 and it was a ripper, probably one of the fastest 2s trucks I've seen for about 8min at a time so if your not racing then don't bother.

I think you hit the nail right on the head .

Khshapiro I saw you mentioned turbos earlier. Does Shapiro and drag racing go together? I used to go to a lot of nmra and orsca races is there a connection there? I know the name just don't remember from where.

This.

My truck handled best, frankly with a 5.5 540 motor but it didn't have enough torque to jump the some of the big timing jumps that were around a year ago.

The Ballistic 550 was fine in a straight line and had enough torque to jump anything, but it over-rotated IMO without adding a ridiculous amount of weight to the front of the truck - like 8 oz. I use a plastic chassis.

The Hobbywing four pole is the first non Novak motor I ever bought.

Finally got some scales to determine front/rear, left/right and cross weight ratios. L/R is pretty close already but front rear was way off. In order to get it close to 50/50 I have to put almost 8oz up front. So my question is, does the benefit of 50/50 front to back weight ratio outweigh the negative effects of adding that much mass? Curious if anyone else had a similar situation and how it worked out or whether they ended up with a compromise of less weight added and not having exactly 50/50 ratio.

I broke a rpm rear arm tonite where the hinge pin goes thru 1 of 2 holes, not sure how as I didn't hit anything too hard. Its cold outside with snow so maybe the cold made the plastic brittle.
I just noticed that my rear tires spin but my front don't and my belt seems to be slipping or at least it has no tension or pull when I hold it. Any ideas before I break it down? The belt is not stripped and it looks good, pinion and spur are meshed well. So its somewhere else in the drive train.

I am originally from the south east , and yes I have done quite a bit in nmra and scca . recently with late models GM LS series and vvt systems and the possibility of using compressed air in place of camshafts.

Hey guys just got me a SC10 4x4 FT! But the question is which body should I get from JC or Proline ? I need to know asap so i can tell my air brusher

Its possible that you may have had the gear on the front top shaft come loose. This would require pulling apart the front tranny.

17mm hex adaptors for the sc10 4x4
 

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/DSC00362.jpg

guys, I have been asked by the Losi guys to make a set of 17mm adaptors
so they can run the 1/8 scales buggy tires as well as the sct tires.

I think both the losi and associated run the same axle size which is 5mm on the Losi.
I am not sure that the associated is the same size and would like some
feed back from you guys on the sc10 axle size and if you are also interested
in have the same options.
these adaptors will be made to quickly change from the stock hubs to the
17mm adaptors so you can have the choices with out having to do major changes to your vehicles.
The adaptors will have a side load for the pins and a set screw to hold the pins in place as well as being able to still thread a special nut into the end
of the shaft to capture the hubs(which I haven't got made as yet.
but it will be a simple process and still use a 7mm wrench to tighten to
retainer nut.
let me know your thoughts on this.
you can pm me here on the site or
send me an email to
[email protected]
mitch

Well I just spent a bunch of money making my truck as light as possible and the pro4 4000kv seems to pull real nice. 8oz is alot. I'm at 90% aluminum screws and anything titanium I could put on it. Truck feels so nimble and quick. If I get hacked the 8oz would come in handy. My truck feels almost to light in the back now but im still on my initial setup. I pretty much copied kinwalds setup minus the weight so far.

http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f...39;s_SC10_4x4/

Myself really like the truck with no ballast, jumps & lands better and the truck is easier to drive.

Adding ballast on the front like BK uses fits higher traction conditions very well.
So there's track conditions where ballast can help performance

Just feel on low to med grip zero weight drives great.