i just got my 4x4 where is the link to that 170 copper head system that will work with this guy. also what noovak system too. i got a used truck coiming in so i hope it good to go might have to get a bearing kit. this is just a roller kinda tired of the wife getting stuck with the 4x4 all the time she just cant keep up with them no matter how good she drives. this is for a medium track and a large track.

Many racers fill the cases all the way , this is bad
and only makes for a tight diff .

Only fill 3/4 so the oil can expand and not be forced out of the cases and inside the gear box...

ok and to mee it sounds like the motor is over working its self like if i were to test drive it hit the gass then let off it wouldnt roll and i ideas could i have the pinon gear to tight its now alot louder than my first time but that i think is beacuse i build my difs the right way the last time i used to much black grease causing then to be tight and stick but im still scared to go run it what would you do ?
:o

My FT SC10 4x4 is complete. Check out the finished product. That's Filthy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB8s...e_gdata_player

It could be many things. Over filled diff is one(only fill the diff to the top cross hair or the spider.) Belt could be way over tightened. Forgot to put pins in the axels and over tightened the wheels. If you remove the belt does the front spin freely. Roll it on the ground if no belt and no pinion and the clicker not lock you should hear it clicking and it should roll freely. If it rolls freely you just over tightened the belt. One problem I've seen with a few of these trucks in person is over tightening of belts and screws. It is common to hear run it and it will loosen up, while it will loosen up it is not correct. I've personally seen where screws are so far screwed in that it makes contact with a slipper ,a pinion or the inside of the trans case.

If belt isn't too tight and pinion mesh is set ok, then it should have at least a lil bit of roll off throttle otherwise I'd unfortunately pull the diff apart and make sure you have everything assembled correctly (right shims and washers in the right places). Also, double check your diff case screws and make sure you have the right length screws in the rights spots and not over tightened either. These can all cause diff binding issues.

how did you get that rx8 to fit on that side. i got mine to fit on the motor side behind the ft saddle packs. had to dremmel down the plastic on the saddle holders to get it to fit. would like to be able to put it on the right side tho for weight distribution concidering i run a 550 ballistic 5.5. i have the pro4 4000 & 4600 but i just love my ballistic more

I have a tekin pro 4 4000kv coming but wonder if I should of gotten the 4600. I race indoors on a medium sized track that is very technical with 1 straight thats a 100ft.

I have a ballistic 5.5 550. I have raced it on a large 1/8th track, Med sized indoor clay, and small technical indoor clay. And I love it. I also have a brand new pro4 4000 and a pro4 4600 and they just sit in my put bag. I'm in for some responces as well. Getting good info in what motor to use for each type of track.

I would use the 4000Kv in those conditions. I ran the Pro4 4000Kv motor for quite some time and on medium to small tracks, excellent motor. It has more initial torque than the current crop of 550s so for tight stuff, it could be a real benefit.

If you find you need more top end but heat could be an issue, try A LITTLE timing, like 5 degrees and drop your pinion size 1 tooth. It can make a big difference.


As for when to use what,personally, I would say if you find you need more initial punch, your best bet may be the 540 Pro4 motors.

If you do decide to go to a 4600, I have two (one BNIB and other used but like new) and am looking to trade one for a 4000.

I had to clearance the chassis about 1/4 back and cut the bottom of the rear belt cover off flush and cut about 1/8 in and down on the rx8 fan shroud and relieved the battery mount almost flush with the rear screw. It's a very tight squeeze but it's do able and the belt cover all comes off with a little finesse. The truck drove pretty good today, it did feel a little light in the back so im dropping down to a yellow swaybar in front.

I ran the pro4 4000kv and rx8 today and it felt really good compared to the castle 1410 3800kv. More bottom and top end power.

well im all for doing a little diy but im not planning on taking anything out of my exotek chassis. i just got it and installed it. i plan to throw in my pro4 4000 and hit up exeter hobbies this weeekend. small indoor techincal track. i would rather just add a little stick weight to the side where yours is next to my reciever or behind on the bowl to compinsate for the rx8 and motor on the one side. thanks for your reply

Ya, I'm not running the exotek center yet.... I did buy all the other stuff they have, I'd still machine the exotek to fit a rx8 on the belt side. If you do it correctly it looks oem. You might be able to run saddles off to the side instead and achieve similar results.

Boy this FT version of the truck is night and day frome the original kit version I built. Truck felt amazing on the track, it drove a lot differently in a good way!

This.is how I tun mine right now. You can see the rx8/pro4 4000 and then the small airtronics rx on the other side. I do love the saddle packs way better. The vts slipper is great s well. Haven't ran the exotek chassis yet and just installed the pro4 today.rebuilt the.shocks f35 r30. New servo as well. Xp1015. I am amazed on how much of a torque change from ballistic 550 5.5 to the pro4 4000. Did a few speed runs and I diddent move my slipper, ran the 550 first with a 62/15 and then swapped it and ran the 4000 with 62/14 and wham 4wd pulling wheelies. But.from a dead stop the ballistic was smoother. The pro4 studderd a tad. And I know its not an esc issue BC the 550 ran fine. And the motor is OK I tor it down and cleaned it and inspected the bearings before installing it today. Only difference is the rx8/550 were soldered together and the pro4 has connectors I between. But I don't think that would cause a cog. Anyone else attest to this?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...ps7e416a7e.jpg


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...ps8f223227.jpg