well its not the first car you have had trouble building....
 

Hey bud... i would re read the directions again as it is complicated but its really not that hard... I have built two of these 4x4's and while the servo is difficult to figure out with all the pieces I have seen no reason to cut or grind any parts to make it work... now using servo spacers from an rc8 that is a different story as I could not get the stock adjustable servo mounts to stay so I just used spacers from an rc8 servo tray to space it properly.. Good luck from your arch nemesis....

Thanks for the reply. It seems that the 8mm mod is half and half about wether its good for indoor or outdoor track conditions. I think I'll just try the toe block first and see how I like it. Then maybe go onto the 8mm mod. I know I'm behind as far as mods. But I think this will be it for me for awhile.

Still going?... or is the snow too deep?

No pin retainer required for the rear... the bearing retains the pin.(did you look at instructions?) As long as the servo is standard size, no mods should be required... follow the instructions.

I have found that using 6mm on the exotek hubs and 2mm at the bulkhead work incredible on high bit tracks.

Someone was telling me that there is an aftermarket conversion for the SC10 4x4 that changes the configuration of the motor, not sure if this was true. He said it configures the motor more to the middle of the truck, possibly shaft driven. He said it was made by G60 but i can't find a dang thing on it.

What link length are you running?

I am told that the bumpier the track the more the 8mm mod works since my track is pretty smooth it isn't as noticeable as the M2C toe block but it can't hurt and with the exotek hubs its only 1 screw to adjust lol.

Thats great info never thought to run that many washers on outside and less inside. Thanks for sharing will have to try this out.



I didn't install anything, its a reference photo from shark on rc shortcourse, I even posted a link and # of the post :ha:
Either way even flipped the b4 hub would still be the same height for the ballstud height. But yes your right it is installed upside down. So lets not confuse people with bad info not pertaining to the matter at hand. Which is the ballstud height on the b4 hub for the 8mm mod being duplicated with 6mm of washer on the exotek rear hubs :deathstar


Why would I want the same camber location as the c-hub everyone that I know, that has done the 8mm mod hates the way the camber link sits with the b4 hub in front of rear shock spring as clearance is not very good, and prefer the clean angle allowed by exotek. The exotek allows more option for height and length of camber link so it has more tuning ability and its solid aluminum vs a thin piece of graphite anchored with 2 screws so it will take more abuse.

The b4 hub mod is a substandard design to the exotek rear hubs.

The ballstud being mounted (sideways) is more likely to snap off, being in weaker position to handle stress forces of a crash or hard landing and its on a thin piece of graphite held in place by 2 screws.
Its called gravity you can argue about it but pretty sure all of us know its the one thing pulling us down constantly besides bad tech :tire:

http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps65f24b41.jpg

The exotek has solid aluminum construction and easy to tune design.
The exotek hubs geometry lets the ballstud sit on top of the block allowing the force of impact over bumps or landings to transfer thru the rear hub, the ballstud is in the optimum position to absorb the stress of impact, tranferring force downward by gravity into a solid block of aluminum and not at an awkward angle off a thin piece of graphite.

Exotek rear hubs are a better design that is superior to the b4 mod.
Even without the 8mm mod the exotek hubs are worth having just for easy tuning ability.

Which looks stronger and will last longer to you.
The b4 mod
http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...psec9bed25.jpg

or the exotek decide for yourself its all about preference but info from actual owners help
also with the exotek you can extend the camber link farther as the exotek front mounting hole is closer to the tire than any length you can gain with the b4 hub
http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...-44-03_636.jpg

[QUOTE=AE SC10 4X4;11795885]So lets not confuse people with bad info :deathst[/QUOTE

Agree with that....;)

The camber location use on the 8mm mod not the same as you achieve with the Exotech . My point !

Its not a big deal , but its about a .060 difference ...

Also that image shows the carbon piece installed upside down from what is recommended ....

I finally got to drive my 4x with the 16mm shocks. Feels good, but I need to go up a little on oils I think. Seemed slappy on the landings and the back seemed to kick up a little over jumps. Weird track layout though, all jumps were slow speed requiring checking up. No "send it" jumps at all. Otherwise very stable and no issues.
Midway thru the 2nd pack, I noticed the rf not acting right. It was landing hard and not drooping out in the air. It looked dead, so I figured I'd damaged the shock somehow. Pulled it off to find the lower spring cup gone. Dunno how that came off... I then see the cup about 3 ft from the random spot I picked the truck up from! Popped it back in and continued to haul the mail...better to be lucky than good? ;)

Middle hole on hubs and inner hole on bulkhead.

+1

Raced yesterday - first good track conditions to test the setup (large 1/8 scale setup a little on the loose side). Truck was very good, had some of the fastest lap time I have ever had. But I wasn't consistent, had to be marshaled too many times.

But the setup seems to work great. Can't tell you what all the setting are but it is the same as Max's from the Psyco Nitro Blast last year.

Are you running the 19T (overdrive) pulley in the front diff.

So yesturday I was in my main race and when I went to line up I twisted my remote left to right to make sure the wheels swung left to right and they would not swing at all. But as the truck got going I was able to turn right and left. It wasn't great and strong but I still finished 2nd. Would this be the servo going bad? I looked into the steering area and everything looked OK. No missing or broken parts. When I have my sc10 4x4 on my stand and hit the throttle the wheels turn left and right with the throttle. Not like swinging hard left right but it looks like a high speed wobble. Whale its on the stand and I turn the settering wheel it turns left to right as well like normal. But on the ground under its own weight it won't turn unless its going. And I have never had this issue before this. I raced last weekend with no issues and 2 heats before this came up yesterday. Help please :)

Wow, that Exotech hub is FUGLY.