R/C Tech Forums - SC10 4x4 Thread

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MRCCC (Post 11644492)

Also Im running in a med to high grip track as well called Bashers RC Raceway in Palm Beach Florida....Im using a Tekin Pro4 4600 KV running 23tooth 87 spur (48pitch) having issues with rear end coming loose on the first turn after the straighway. Ive tuned it so I dont have any traction roll but my rear fish tails a little....and im ussing the best tires on that track which are soft calibers...

have you tried the 8mm mod? I personally found it generated more traction, you may find the same.

For me personally the best grip generator for the rear was the M2C rear toe in plate, set it at 3.5 degrees and could pitch the car how I wanted to.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain (Post 11644843)

For me personally the best grip generator for the rear was the M2C rear toe in plate, set it at 3.5 degrees and could pitch the car how I wanted to.

Speaking of which, I am selling this part, brand new, unopened along with an RC Shox V2 Center Diff here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post11644881

Cain will attest to how effective this pair of parts are in getting your SC10 4x4 competitive on a large, loose track.

yup. Center diff is money. Really changes the characteristics of the car and is tuneable. And the M2C block gives you those toe in options from 2.5 degree up to 3.5 in .25 increments as well as I believe a lower antisquat setting than the stock one too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain (Post 11644907)

What is the 8mm rod?

answered my own question

Quote:

Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 11194534)

Yeah, the new kits should come with the .5mm shims. One under each sun gear and remove the small shim on the outdrive on the outside of the diff.

AE # 9829
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9829/

You may want to get two and freshen up the front as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MRCCC (Post 11645313)

What is the 8mm rod?

Used to raise the ball stud on the rear hub & rear tower..
It makes less traction & less chassis roll so the truck does not roll over and slides instead.

Good for clay tracks , med to high traction surfaces..

Does not make more traction ......:nod:

Before some tard come here and confuses everyone some more....:D

The carbon brace will make more traction if you use it to lower both ball studs on rear hub & tower .
This is true...

Proof ?

Ask anyone who use the Carbon brace on the B4 to lower the studs on rear hub & chassis U brace ...

They will tell you it makes for more traction & less roll ...
common knowledge in fact ....;)

Remember the 8mm mod for the Sc10 4x4 raises , and does not lower the ball studs .... Thus it makes less grip , less roll ....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11645894)

>Before some tard come here and confuses everyone some more....

So about got everything ready on my truck. My steering subtrim is at 65R on DX3r and 62R on DX3S seems kinda high. I've heard of loosening the top of the front chassis servo screws and pushing them towards side you need trim on.

http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...ring-trim.html

Otherwise I found these tips what do you think that seemed to make sense?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casper (Post 6871065)

Travel in steering is a VERY important setting that is very often overlooked for people new to the hobby. There are two types of steering travel that need to be covered. First is overall and the other is left and right end points.

I tend to set up my radio by starting with the left and right settings at 100%. Then with the wheels off the table so there is no friction I will adjust the overall steering travel to the side (left of right) that locks last is set.

What I mean by this is one side usually has more throw then the other. So it will basically turn more one way then the other. Set the overall travel (See page 17 of the DX3R manual right side picture) so the side that turns less to start with now has full travel. Now with the endpoint adjustment (same page 17 left side picture) reduce the throw for the side that had full thrown until the servo is not straining by trying to move that side too far.

I hope that makes sense. When you are done both left and right will have the same full throw and the servo will not overtravel to do it.

Sub trim adusts the center of the steering. (I should state you want to set the subtrim to make sure the tires are pointing straight before you do the steering travel adjustments!!!!!)

Steering rate has to do with travel again. In some forms of racing or racing conditions you do not want full left to right travel. Oval and onroad tend to use this more then offroad. Basically with steering rate you are decreaseing the steering travel the same for left and right with one adjustment. So once you adjust the servo for full travel left to right you can decrease the steering rate to say 70% and your wheels will only travel 70% of the full rate left to right. This was a feature I used a ton with my 12th scale as full servo travel made the car super twitchy and I ran between 60-70% steering rate. For offroad I have never touched this feature as I like full lock for couter steering and I never had the car uncontrollable with too much steering like you can find in onroad.

Hopefully I made things more clear. If there was something I said that did not make sense I will try and explain it more. ;)

So before I was running a 15t pinion and 62t spur on castle sct and 1410 motor combo Temps after 10 minute were very cool.

ESC 87*
Motor 109*
Battery 87*
room temp was 68*

Now with the RC SHox v.2 center diff with 60t spur.
What pinion should I run? I race at the HobbyPLEX in Omaha nebraska, its a damp clay track it was on live rc all weeked for novak races.

Also if anybody has a the exotek hubs or steering arm and a m2c toe block you want to get rid of let me know. Otherwise can someone give me links to good priced vendors.

MRCCC: try it yourself, the 8mm mod and see what you find. As you can see, opinions vary, including the one from the AE rep that dissagrees with WAC. :sneaky:

CCC

My information comes straight from the Ae factory team ..;)

and so does the one I am referring too, even if you choose to ignore that fact ;)

And as I have said and others, its best for people to try and for themselves and see versus taking the lemming route.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11647371)

CCC

My information comes straight from the Ae factory team ..;)

http://chzbronies.files.wordpress.co...-at-me-bro.png

Fact :

C-hub make more traction on a B4 with studs lowered & the Sc10 4x4 makes less traction with the studs raised ...

Can't have it both ways can we ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by imbsbiaoy (Post 11612657)

Have you checked your mesh after stripping? Make sure that your motor isn't moving on you. I am on my 4th series with my truck and still using the original spur. Also, maybe make sure that you are not missing any screws or bolts after the diff change in the rear... it is a bit more complicated than most trucks and the whole rear diff/gearbox is kind of one unit. If a bolt is missing, you may get just enough deflection to cause stripping?

I checked all... Another one dusted. I just replaced it again and on the bench I can see the teeth becoming shark finned just from gunning it and hitting the brakes a few times.
I checked the top shaft and its true.
Before last blow out it was making a barking noise under hard braking. This is getting old fast.

That's really odd. I abused the hell out of my sc104x4 for about 16 months and never ate up the stock spur. Hrm, something else is definitely going on.