5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-10-2012, 09:47 PM
I'm all done with a long race day.
N/w Shoot-Out Race report
This event is a one day race series that tours the N/w's indoor tracks ...
BRCR@ B-Town - TRCR @ Tacoma
4-Season @Lacy -TOP GEAR Hobby @ Portland
Race program is 2 qualifier's & 2 main's for the A .
2 bump ups from the lower mains...
Ae Sc10 4x4 Tq's & wins >Mike Brown
Ae Sc 10 4x4 earns 2nd place >Chris Gould ..
Came in 6th > Wild
We used the VTS slipper from Ae ......
about 110 entries
2 heats of Sc 4x4, 8 car each
N/w Shoot-Out Race report
This event is a one day race series that tours the N/w's indoor tracks ...
BRCR@ B-Town - TRCR @ Tacoma
4-Season @Lacy -TOP GEAR Hobby @ Portland
Race program is 2 qualifier's & 2 main's for the A .
2 bump ups from the lower mains...
Ae Sc10 4x4 Tq's & wins >Mike Brown
Ae Sc 10 4x4 earns 2nd place >Chris Gould ..
Came in 6th > Wild
We used the VTS slipper from Ae ......
about 110 entries
2 heats of Sc 4x4, 8 car each
11-11-2012, 04:45 AM
Tech Regular
look what i found in the SCTE-Thread:
thank you usmc stone, all my scruples about the SC10 are gone 
11-11-2012, 05:32 AM
They do bend bad in stock form. I dont know anyone that races with a stock chassis on those things.
11-11-2012, 06:45 AM
Ran the Exotek front locker last night at Mikes Hobby Shop in Carrolton Tx. In practice the truck pushed way to bad, and after a couple of practice sessions I did not like it at all. So I went back to old setup. Plan on playing with the locker more at Monday night practice.
11-11-2012, 06:56 AM
So ran the truck with J Concepts overtray on and off with fresh battery pack each time. With the overtray mounted
esc turned off after 10 minutes of runtime
(according to the timer on my DX3S
never appreciated the timer before 
)
With the overtray off and fresh pack swapped in ran for 28 minutes no thermal and esc was a toasty 128 degrees, battery and motor both cool to the touch.
esc turned off after 10 minutes of runtime
(according to the timer on my DX3S
never appreciated the timer before )With the overtray off and fresh pack swapped in ran for 28 minutes no thermal and esc was a toasty 128 degrees, battery and motor both cool to the touch.
Running Mainsfields newest posted setup, car seems really agile and aggressive if that makes any sense lol, but it flips over really easy when I turn at anything higher than 40% of speed????? Maybe on road touring cars spoiled me since I could turn sharply at 80% of speed and still not flip.
Yes I know its a truck cg is higher than car lol. I just wonder if sway bars would soften its tendency to flip, also I saw a post that says to not tighten down to much the servo saver.......I installed a savox 1258t but I have no idea what the servo saver is? I'd hate to ruin this expensive servo so any help is appreciated. Also has anyone heard of the sc10 4x4 with a 1410 3800 castle making weird crunching noises when you hit the brakes or go in reverse?????? Mine is really quiet except for when I go in reverse or stop, otherwise it isn't binding and with motor pulled it will easily roll 10 feet or more with a little push. Sorry for the OCD post just all things I was wondering about.
Yes I know its a truck cg is higher than car lol. I just wonder if sway bars would soften its tendency to flip, also I saw a post that says to not tighten down to much the servo saver.......I installed a savox 1258t but I have no idea what the servo saver is? I'd hate to ruin this expensive servo so any help is appreciated. Also has anyone heard of the sc10 4x4 with a 1410 3800 castle making weird crunching noises when you hit the brakes or go in reverse?????? Mine is really quiet except for when I go in reverse or stop, otherwise it isn't binding and with motor pulled it will easily roll 10 feet or more with a little push. Sorry for the OCD post just all things I was wondering about.
For the servo saver, that part where that assembly mates to your servo with the nut and spring, thats the saver part. tigthening / loosening the nut adjusts the tension.
As for that crunching noise, is that your belt skipping? Is it set too loose?
The UFO pistons will not be 2 stage. Their main purpose is for hard pack and/or indoor. This way i have pistons for every situation out there. Just like any other component out there having options for different setups is what makes you fast on ALL conditions. I have been working on these for about 4months now and literally have made over 150 trial and error pistons! I now have it narrowed down to two basic variations that work on everything but the 2 stage shine on outdoor blown out conditions. My crash test dummy just reported back from a race today and is raving about them, he was able to beat his best lap time. not sure by how much yet but will find out later.
just reported back from a race today and is raving about them, he was able to beat his best lap time. not sure by how much yet but will find out later.
Last edited by Cain; 11-12-2012 at 07:48 AM.
11-11-2012, 07:50 AM
Ran the Exotek front locker last night at Mikes Hobby Shop in Carrolton Tx. In practice the truck pushed way to bad, and after a couple of practice sessions I did not like it at all. So I went back to old setup. Plan on playing with the locker more at Monday night practice.
11-11-2012, 11:17 AM
My truck drives awesome indoor and is very fast feeling. I have no trouble keeping up. I run rear Exotek hubs with +5mm of spacers on roll center. I have the Exotek center chassis and the RX-Shox center ball diff with a 14T pinion on a Hacker 5.5 4 pole motor driven by a Tekin RX8.
When I go on an outdoor track I feel so much slower, even on a similar sized track. I dont know if its just me feeling like I am or if I really am, but I have trouble keeping up so I dont do well. Any ideas on what would speed me up on an outdoor track? Whats good gearing for outdoors? Should I use the optional front overdrive gear? Order a different sized spur?
When I go on an outdoor track I feel so much slower, even on a similar sized track. I dont know if its just me feeling like I am or if I really am, but I have trouble keeping up so I dont do well. Any ideas on what would speed me up on an outdoor track? Whats good gearing for outdoors? Should I use the optional front overdrive gear? Order a different sized spur?
11-11-2012, 11:19 AM
My truck drives awesome indoor and is very fast feeling. I have no trouble keeping up. I run rear Exotek hubs with +5mm of spacers on roll center. I have the Exotek center chassis and the RX-Shox center ball diff with a 14T pinion on a Hacker 5.5 4 pole motor driven by a Tekin RX8.
When I go on an outdoor track I feel so much slower, even on a similar sized track. I dont know if its just me feeling like I am or if I really am, but I have trouble keeping up so I dont do well. Any ideas on what would speed me up on an outdoor track? Whats good gearing for outdoors? Should I use the optional front overdrive gear? Order a different sized spur?
When I go on an outdoor track I feel so much slower, even on a similar sized track. I dont know if its just me feeling like I am or if I really am, but I have trouble keeping up so I dont do well. Any ideas on what would speed me up on an outdoor track? Whats good gearing for outdoors? Should I use the optional front overdrive gear? Order a different sized spur?
11-11-2012, 11:42 AM
The only thing I have noticed a difference with is the center ball diff. That helped the rear end kicking out on me a little. I am also running and EXO chassis and have weights in front of the servo.
But I am desperate to get faster. Like the above poster said, I just "feel like I'm slower" and can't put my finger on why. Even when I happen to have a good race I am a lap down. It's not for lack of speed (Pro 4 4600 motor). I know it must be my driving.
I have now also ordered (but not yet installed) the M2C rear toe block. But outdoor season ended now so I have to set up for indoor anyway. But I would like help getting better for next spring so I can actually compete on the large outdoor track. I have considered switching to a Losi, but decided against it.
11-11-2012, 11:55 AM
Ive got all that and forgot to mention I am also running the M2C rear blocks at 3.5 toe.
11-11-2012, 12:21 PM
Can you please explain how 2 stage pistons will help? I don't consider myself a good enough driver to be able to notice subtle changes in handling based on things like that. Hell, I can't even tell the difference when I switch tires back and forth.
The only thing I have noticed a difference with is the center ball diff. That helped the rear end kicking out on me a little. I am also running and EXO chassis and have weights in front of the servo.
But I am desperate to get faster. Like the above poster said, I just "feel like I'm slower" and can't put my finger on why. Even when I happen to have a good race I am a lap down. It's not for lack of speed (Pro 4 4600 motor). I know it must be my driving.
I have now also ordered (but not yet installed) the M2C rear toe block. But outdoor season ended now so I have to set up for indoor anyway. But I would like help getting better for next spring so I can actually compete on the large outdoor track. I have considered switching to a Losi, but decided against it.
The only thing I have noticed a difference with is the center ball diff. That helped the rear end kicking out on me a little. I am also running and EXO chassis and have weights in front of the servo.
But I am desperate to get faster. Like the above poster said, I just "feel like I'm slower" and can't put my finger on why. Even when I happen to have a good race I am a lap down. It's not for lack of speed (Pro 4 4600 motor). I know it must be my driving.
I have now also ordered (but not yet installed) the M2C rear toe block. But outdoor season ended now so I have to set up for indoor anyway. But I would like help getting better for next spring so I can actually compete on the large outdoor track. I have considered switching to a Losi, but decided against it.
On an outdoor track, you will feel a difference... experienced or not.
I ran a lot thicker oil than suggested, but that's me.
Brief explanation...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10015724-post2.html
Acill, my bad... missed the exo chassis in your post.
Not much left but setup.
Outdoor I ran a higher ride height than indoor, stiffer springs & oil to deal with body roll and beat up by 1/8 scale track ... essentially a completely different setup than indoor. Have a 2nd set of shocks for outdoor setup.
Last edited by fq06; 11-11-2012 at 01:17 PM.
11-11-2012, 12:43 PM
I'm currently running 30k in front and 7 in rear. And I knowi should go down on the front to get the push out.
11-11-2012, 03:10 PM
Getting a second set of shocks is a good idea. I like the blue ones from the regular kit better than the FT ones anyway. They are dirt cheap on ebay.
Im running 35 in front and 30 in the rear, Yellow fronts up front and blue fronts in the back for indoor. Whats a good start for outdoor? Here in Arizona this is the start of the season so I got lots of outdoor time ahead.
Im running 35 in front and 30 in the rear, Yellow fronts up front and blue fronts in the back for indoor. Whats a good start for outdoor? Here in Arizona this is the start of the season so I got lots of outdoor time ahead.
11-11-2012, 03:54 PM
Getting a second set of shocks is a good idea. I like the blue ones from the regular kit better than the FT ones anyway. They are dirt cheap on ebay.
Im running 35 in front and 30 in the rear, Yellow fronts up front and blue fronts in the back for indoor. Whats a good start for outdoor? Here in Arizona this is the start of the season so I got lots of outdoor time ahead.
Im running 35 in front and 30 in the rear, Yellow fronts up front and blue fronts in the back for indoor. Whats a good start for outdoor? Here in Arizona this is the start of the season so I got lots of outdoor time ahead.
As for having the power, if your motor is not getting hot, I would say gear up or you can play with some timing. I found using a little as 5 degrees of timing in say a turbo fashion (ie- after a certain RPM range) really woke up my Tekin Pro4 4000Kv motor.
Or, you can go with something with a higher Kv. It may be that the competition is just using really powerful motors at your track.
by the way, how would you describe the conditions you run on?
11-11-2012, 04:11 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
1st Indoor race with my 4x4 today, Only mods from stock are Sway bars front a rear and Chassis Brace. Other than that Bone stock RTR with Spektrum DX3C Radio. Wanted to get a couple of race days as is to get a good base line..
What I took away from today was:
1) in stock form ( stock springs, Oils, Fluids and Electronics ) the truck is very twitchy with a huge amount of traction roll. Ran the spring tensioner about 3/4 down 1st heat. Changed the rear toe block to the 3-3 in the rear and put the Overdrive pulley up front. For Second round, Seemed to have more forward bite but still alot of traction roll in corners and bounce in rhythm section. back spring tensioner off to 1/4 in front and 1/2 in rear. MUCH BETTER was able to point and pull in corner and entry speed was much better. Traction roll was reduced but still there. Also put on a set of soft rebars with the 3mm Wheels from my 2wd to see what it did. Stock tires actually were OK but lost lots of Acceleration out of the corners with them. REBARS helped that 10 fold, Pulled a wheelie at one point which was fun. LOL
2) Stock 14 tooth pinion was to "hot" for our track layout. Picked up a 12 tooth and seemed to help with low end power and temps.. Truck felt a little more relaxed. Now just need to learn how to adjust my 3c to take advantage of the power and not over power.
3) Factory Diff consistency. Before 1st round had already had to rebuild my rear diff due to it stripping out from the shims being wrong. By 3rd round the front was clicking and will now be rebuilt before next race.
All and All good 1st day, Finished 2nd in B main with a brand new truck so I was happy. Lots to learn with with and I look forward to growing with it. Biggest issue is transitioning from 2wd to 4wd and back to 2wd during race day they are so different to drive.
What I took away from today was:
1) in stock form ( stock springs, Oils, Fluids and Electronics ) the truck is very twitchy with a huge amount of traction roll. Ran the spring tensioner about 3/4 down 1st heat. Changed the rear toe block to the 3-3 in the rear and put the Overdrive pulley up front. For Second round, Seemed to have more forward bite but still alot of traction roll in corners and bounce in rhythm section. back spring tensioner off to 1/4 in front and 1/2 in rear. MUCH BETTER was able to point and pull in corner and entry speed was much better. Traction roll was reduced but still there. Also put on a set of soft rebars with the 3mm Wheels from my 2wd to see what it did. Stock tires actually were OK but lost lots of Acceleration out of the corners with them. REBARS helped that 10 fold, Pulled a wheelie at one point which was fun. LOL
2) Stock 14 tooth pinion was to "hot" for our track layout. Picked up a 12 tooth and seemed to help with low end power and temps.. Truck felt a little more relaxed. Now just need to learn how to adjust my 3c to take advantage of the power and not over power.
3) Factory Diff consistency. Before 1st round had already had to rebuild my rear diff due to it stripping out from the shims being wrong. By 3rd round the front was clicking and will now be rebuilt before next race.
All and All good 1st day, Finished 2nd in B main with a brand new truck so I was happy. Lots to learn with with and I look forward to growing with it. Biggest issue is transitioning from 2wd to 4wd and back to 2wd during race day they are so different to drive.