Cain

iTrader: (294)

sorry, setup wasn't that great which is why I came up with my own, Where's that AE wonder setup for loose 1/8 sized tracks again as well as the win to back it up?'

More than happy to buy the AE parts if they were available that we needed like you do exclusively ... Wait .., Hows that Avid slipper setup working out?

Still waiting for that setup advise that works better than what I have gotten from Mantis, Krio, Shark, etc. I am figuring though for indoor, it should be golden though since your conditions you race on would be similar, though, your advise on the 8mm mod I am still skeptical, but, unlike others, I am willing to give it a try versus knocking it on false information.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

This is EXACTLY what the mod does!! on high grip all it does is traction roll on a loose track it is beautiful simple as that. only way you can get it to work on high grip is with loose tires and whats the point of that?

yet another explanation from AE direct:
asked a AE engineer who shall remain nameless so he does not get blasted with questions but here is what he told me about raising and lowering rear camber.

Me: I can't find info out there about rear camber links, and we chatted before about it. All things being the same. Raising the inside and out side of the link up 2mm should make what happen. I assume the opposite would take place to lower them both 2mm. Is it as simple as high bite lower is better and low bite higher is better kind of thing? Tight track vs. larger sweeping corner track? I just want to make sure what I think is happening on the track is correct.

Him: Sorry to get back to you kinda late on this, I had read it on my phone and meant to reply later but forgot.

You are basically correct. when you raise both inside and outside you are going to be lowering the roll center, which creates a larger lever arm for the car's CG. As a result the car rolls more when both are raised. When grip is low and you are trying to make the tires work as hard as possible and the ones that should be doing the most are the outside tires, because when the car has more roll it is able to transfer more weight quicker. Thats what makes the car feel like it has more traction. However, if you try and use that same setup on high bite you are likely going to traction roll because now the car is able to transfer too much weight too quickly because the suspension links act less 'rigid' initially and then CG is able to generate too much force for that length lever.

When you lower both then you have raised the roll center and as a result for a same given lateral acceleration as before the car will not roll as much. This will help prevent the car from traction rolling due to excessive body roll, and will help distribute the work load to all of the tires, and thus you can achieve higher cornering speeds.

When picturing this affect you can think of a Jeep cherokee vs a corvette taking a corner at a given speed, the jeep will generate more body roll. But you got the right thinking going, and should be pretty noticeable raising and lowering the links. Another thing to consider is that when you lower both or just lower the inside location, you will also be increasing camber gain. Which can affect mid-corner stability, which would only be worse at higher speeds.

Hope all this dribble helps, if not let me know and I will try to clarify!

Me: More blah blah stuff.

Him: Well the other thing I have found is that when you do raise the roll center it can give you the feeling that the car has more grip or more stable coming off of a straight. However, then the issue becomes that the car doesnt feel like it wants to rotate around tight corners as well, but this experience is from our other 1/10 cars. The 4x4 is a little edgier so maybe it helps balance it out. But in general I would think on that truck that lowering inside is better.

So from all of this, this past weekend was our first outdoor race of the year year. Loose top soil with hard pack under it. Very smooth track but you power slide out of corners and most of the time in. You have loads of tire spin basically. My normal rear link is stock with 2mm under the inside. I raised the outside 4mm (all I could do with the hot racing hubs) and the inside to 5mm (all I can do with the stock ball stud) and the truck was better. More controlled for sure around the track drifting in and out of corners. I did drop from the blue rear bar to the orange one also and that helped. I custom made a tab to raise the outside 8mm but the quality of the material was poor and I did not run it in fear of breaking it. So next weekend I should be able to test Kody's/WC rear tab idea with a longer inner ball stud and taller outer tab. Not sure yet of the effects on high bite but for outdoors I see it being an improvement with the loose dirt.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

BEAUTIFULL!!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Not a problem with the name drop and the way you are going about it is the RIGHT way for anyone as far as trying stuff out.

Just because Me, Joe Blow or World Champ driver says this will work for you doesn't mean you shouldn't try it and come to your own conclusions. Driving styles alone can make a difference in what setup you go with.

The pro drivers are so smooth that if you need slower reaction time from the vehicle, a super responsive setup that the champ recommends won't fit you, as an example.

They also aren't necessarily the best to test durability either in comparison to mr all throttle

MunchMunch

iTrader: (8)

Been racing for a long time, since the first rc10GT but took a break for a while. Started racing the SC10 now SC104x4 and love it. Been reading this thread for a while and picking up some good tips.

I run on a (usually) mildly loose out door 1/8 track in South Carolina (shout out to The Hobby Connection and the Carolina RC Complex).

My setup is: RX8 / Redline 4.5 / FT Kit upgrade / Exotech Front Lockout / White sway bars (front and back), softest spring (front and back), 5k fluid in diffs and 35.5 fluid in shocks.

Truck was having issues - last race I added the sway bars, springs and fluid change - was within 1 second of fastest lap time where before I was probably 3 to 4 seconds back. Would have finished better but could not stay off pipes . Going to try the 8mm mod and have to put travel limiters in - in a bad way.

One thing I've notices recently here, no one seems to mention the batteries in the equation for going fast. I have both 30C and 70C and the 70C really makes the truck fly (at least it seems that way). I hear some people saying the "C" rating will not change how fast the truck is. What are the thoughts out there? I'm thinking of moving to 90C or so.

For all - thanks for the advice and time put in on the board.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

lol. I wish you still had your sc10 4x4 Marcus if I am understanding what you run now correctly, would love to hear your thoughts on the M2C toe blocks on the 3.5 degree setting for loose stuff.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

By softest springs on the rear, do you mean from the spring kit or what they have available? ( I think there are some even softer than the pack last time I looked could be wrong). using this soft of a spring setting on the rear how does it feel through ripple bumps? When i tried just the yellow rear springs it felt as if it dropped the car into the bumps too much.

where do you feel the vehicle is lacking if you had to name an area?'

As for C rating, I beleive the issue is that since we are using 2S lipos with a really high Kv motor setup they are having trouble keeping up with the demands placed on them which is why we see a benefit to using high C rated lipos

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

I still have it of course and run it just about every weekend, just not allowed to race it! RCPro finals is coming up so after i am done with the race i have to begin testing the UFO pistons that are in the pipeline right now. I have a bagfull of new parts ready for a rebuild just need the time to get it done! On a good note my 7yr old son has won a few races with it!!

vito

do i need a better esc?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

If the ESC you are using assuming no other issues is not working how you want it to, maybe.

But, maybe you need a different motor?

Does someone have the little breakdown of whats hot and what to go with gearing based on that? Had it but can't find it. May help vito.

vito

my set up is a novak 4.5 trun 550 with a gtb2 esc iam at 12 62 tryed 15 62 and the esc ran hot

Cain

iTrader: (294)

found the little breakdown:

As with all things, not universal but good to have.

Now, for your issue, from what I have read up on the gtb2 seems like it just on the cusp of being usable kind of like the MMP but a better BEC.

You may want a different ESC.

Another thing, How are you driving? What conditions? Are you at WOT alot, etc? This can matter to one what is getting hot, etc.

vito

its ok i ran a eco pack 30c 5000 7.4

Cain

iTrader: (294)

are you asking if its okay to run those batteries?

Personally, if the quality of the batteries is there, I would say yes, however power delivery under load would be better with a higher C rated battery. If you are cost sensitive, give the promatch batteries a look.

vito

my esc is ok. has no get up and go