I am using the exo chassis AND extra weight. Truck drives great, but still having a tad bit of a problem keeping it level and stable on the really big jumps so the Losi's are getting an advantage on me there as I am single jumping places they are doubling.

That's what I was thinking, starting over with the weight placement. That was the process I did first time around.

Cain, thanks for the spring tip but I'm done with that thing. haha

Can't wait to try the hunk of metal! I figure if I don't like it, no big deal as I got a sweet deal on it. Well see tho as my truck is feeling pretty dialed

Think of adding pins the same as running a thicker fluid in a center gear diff.

Less pins allows it to "diff out" or send the power to the end with the least traction. Exiting a turn on power shifts the weight to the back and you have less traction in the front. The power will move to the front giving you understeer.

Insert more pins and the power is distributed more evenly front to back and you will have more oversteer.

I run 6 pins most everywhere but will go to 8 on occasion outdoor low bite when the front is not holding the line.

Where's the weight? Left of the servo?

Launching nose up or down? The landing will only be as good as the launch so set up correctly and the rest of the jump will flow.

Losi's usually have an advantage on jumps that are right at the exit of a turn. They put the power down and dont slip. Try more pins to get more drive up the face of the jump. Try 10 then 8 then 6 and see what suits you. Maybe its 7 pins.
(tip for removing pins: push down on one side of the spur and a few pins will pop out, grab it with a needle nose)

There were jumps I had to take a wide line for to build momentum to make, changed to the V2 C-diff on the same layout and I could punch it from a stand still and back side it.
Losi's were holding a tight line and the AE's went wide to make it. You lost a lot of ground if you double singled that section because the backside was into a short straight.
Going wide opened up the door for the losi to turn in on you for a pass.

Stick pack Exo:
Indoor I run blue front and yellow rear, tried the red didn't really like it (didn't like the front spring on the rear either).
Blownout outdoor I will go to yellow front & red rear with 5wt thicker oil in the shocks. Raise the ride height a couple mm from indoor setting. I keep a spare set of shocks for that situation.

fq06:

Right now, believe it or not, I am running about 1/2 oz on both sides of the servo AND both sides on the rear!

I ordered 4 little digital scales from Amazon and they will be here in a few days. I will then adjust to make the weight distribution correct. The reason I had loaded up so much weight was because I was having a hell of a time with the rear end sliding out, but I think now that I have the c-diff, problems like that should be gone anyhow. I was also getting tossed around everytime a losi so much as banged fenders with me, hence the weight overload.

Oh, to answer your other question, (how is it flying) it depends. Sometimes nose up, sometimes not. I am still working on my driving so I can't really rule out driver error. I just know it's not stable like my 1/8 buggy, and from what I can gather, the losi's are stable like 1/8 buggies.

The losi is basically an 1/8 scale

Put a couple 180 turn's on the layout , it will be slow ...:sneaky:

Try running a strip of weight down the center and getting rid of the weight in the rear. Maybe part of it on the esc side of the esc tray and the rest of it on the lipo side of the chassis center wall of the rear chassis.

The scales are tricky. You can use them to balance the chassis or the suspension but not at the same time. To balance chassis corner weights you need to lock out any movement from the shocks or even make rods that are the same length as your shocks would be at static ride height (L&R same length).
If your shocks and the spring setting come into the equation that is an outside influence on the actual weight balance of the chassis.

Once you have the chassis balanced you can put your shocks back on and corner balance the spring adjustment to balance the suspension.

You can have a chassis thats all out of whack and corner balance with the springs but you won't be anywhere near correct. You are just adjusting the springs to compensate for an unbalanced chassis.

The losi absolutely flies more stable for the reason you stated, but the AE can be setup to fly just about as well with a well balanced chassis and setup.

On the launch I have pulled some throttle back and not at wide open throttle at the lip. You may be getting chassis slap holding wide open all the way through and that will throw your truck all kinds of bad ways that nothing can fix.

I run 20 grams upfront with exotek and it jumps nice. For big long .jumps it will jump level then nose down. It'll nose down for smaller jumps, and you can throttle it up to pick up the nose.

I run 5 on drag brake on my rx8. Hope that helps.

I was reading Cameron's post about the camber link and the roll center..
I have had the 8mm mod since almost day one of my truck. I believed that raising the link was better for high grip.. When infact the ae engineer states the opposite.
Now I see why rm did not run it at the reedy race. My track Varies in traction throughout the day but is usually medium to higher traction (clay). But can be low ad well. (not as often)
Now I am thinking about removing and trying standard.
What do you guys think.? Wc you are well versed in trcr clay?

traction is already on the strong side at TRCR


So think you will need the 8mm mod for now ...


When layout is fresh ,dusty & low grip ?
Should be a good time to use the standard hub & camber ....

That ae tech said 8mm for low traction, standard for high traction?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10640989-post22028.html

The Ae tech I go by is BK as the 8mm is his creation ....

Was lucky and discussed the mod with him personally at the ShowDown...

The whole idea behind the 8mm mod is the truck has a lot of traction and rolls easily.

You get a little less traction & roll with 8mm , so on sweepers the truck does not dig end so hard & slides instead ...

That's what I thought, which makes sense. More body roll should let you drive harder and faster in corners.
confusing this morning. Need more coffee
It has been working great for me so far as is.
Yea bk knows what he's doing.