Loose as in my tensioners are maxed out an that keeps it just barely tight enough. I thought that when I threw a new belt on that it would tighten things up an I would have to loosen my rear tensioner but nope I still have to have them both maxed out to keep the belt just barely tight enought. By barely tight enough I mean tight enough to run, skips a little but could be a little tighter.

yeah i know its the raptor, they are similar tho. i like the hood-scoop on the hi flo/flowtek tho :D

You did say dusty and loose &

sweeping is way cheaper than a new set of tire$ ....:)



At Trcr we sweep before each heat even .


If you can't sweep ?

another tip

check what the faster trucks are using for tires & inserts , try those tires ...


J61092

Are you using a chassis brace ?

Looks way too tight to me, that'll give you drag (and a lot of fine, black plastic dust). The first setting was fine, maybe a tiny tad tighter. You'll want to be able to wiggle the spur back and forth a very small amount before it touches the pinion.
But as others said, get a new pinion.. that's likely half the reason for the shredded spurs right there.

thanks fq6 i tried the 15 it was good and raised the limiter back to 70 or 80 then used ept at 85 and speed at 70 pt was beater but far from praised
got in the MIP pistons at least 30min install thanks to second shocks i can swop back ez but i don't think they are coming off i dropped 3s off my average lap times and most are better than my best from last night of a 33s it was like the truck wonted to be Divine fast less grip but control no more ice skating more like a losi but faster i used 35w in front and 30 in the rear ae oil

MIP MIP MIP

One other suggestion here. Set the mesh pretty close to what you want, snug up the motor screws and spin the spur a little bit at a time while watching the mesh. Spurs are not perfectly round and there will be a spot where the mesh is tighter than elsewhere. The spot where the mesh is the tightest is where you want to set things up from.

Good morning!

Do u guys think it would work to replace the clicker-spring with a little tube made of brass, to lock it without the need of glueing or additional tuningparts? I'm student and have to pay all my parts myself, so i'm looking for a low-cost alternative to try wether fulltime 4wd is good for me or not. The clicker parts are quite expensive in germany :(

Greets cody227

Er.. if you want to try full-time 4wd, you simply tighten down the nut. There's no need to glue anything. Especially for testing, this will work just fine.. I ran 4WD for 2 months with no issues whatsoever, no mods done.

Not for me. I tightened down the nut as much as possible and it didnt work. The clicker clicks even when the car is in the air (with fulltime 4WD) and i break a little bit. And the clicker is not damaged or something like that. I read often that the clicker dont work and usually they glue the clicker. There is also NO diference in handling with the locked clicker.

Are you sure that was the clicker? The clicker buzzes when hitting the brakes. It could very well be your belt slipping instead.. I had the same issue with mine.
The clicker would also click if you spin both front wheels backwards by hand if it was slipping through.

I'm pretty sure it's not the belt. It clicks also when i hold the car in the hand, hit the throttle for a moment and then let the car roll out in the air. Same issue when i hold the rear-tires and turn the front-tires by hand.

It is the diffs , shim the as stated earlier in this thread and your problem will be solved.
Has it been doing this fo some time ?, yours sounds to be on the very worn side.

How and where are you feeling the belt tension?

Why the slipper look many rub mark on it?It is not normal!.May be something wrong in slipper ,so made the friction too much for bend the teeth pf motor gear.