I think he needs alot more than the center diff! lol!! j/k :)

I was using Rb's and Novarossi p5's and couldn't grasp why anyone would spend the extra money on those sexy blue headed jp's.... Then I drove one! I have to say they were the most linear engines I ever came across. And you absolutely could not out run one. Got really good run time to boot. Needless to say after the first we never ran anything else on our Mugens.

Phil 60g is way too much. When I would jump the nose would pitch down hard. Maybe try 30g or less. You don't need scales, just trial n error. Its easy to put in weight or take out and take it for a lap or two.

Yeah, I saw that kinwald (or someone) sheet with 60g and was surprised. Kinwald must be looking for something else out of his truck than us mere mortals can drive.
I had 33g (I think) but I'm at 28 left of servo now (exoteck, 550 can, stick pac).

i had 3oz in the front and didnt feel it was to hard to drive. i did go down to 2 oz though just because i felt i had a little to much weight transfer.

Yea, IDK what factors did you have to plug in because suspension geometry would have a big effect.

I think the front is naturally softer when approaching an obstacle then the rear because of the caster built into the arms. My rear end was planted running yellow fronts and blue rears but the front end would bounce over a single grain of sand and the rear would bottom out. Now I have been running yellow fronts with green fronts in the rear and it is level but I have sacrificed too much rear traction, I am going to start back at square 1 with my setup and try to find something that works for me, its good now but I cant be too aggressive or else I loose the rear end all over the place.

Here's my maths (attached) all units are inches or pounds.

I will also be starting over from scratch next week but I did this a little while ago. The spring seem to work but every track, driver, and even truck is different.

RC Pro Ontario Rd3
 

I put the Factory Team SC10 4x4 on the podium at RC Pro Ontario Rd3 last weekend - 8th scale track.

Didn't win overall but I did win A2 and finished 2nd overall. :)

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...m/DSC_4485.jpg

Hmm, seems liek I have seen this photo before. maybe it was posted on the teamC forum

put the 8mm mod back on the truck.. made a big difference without... this truck needs it in my opinion... added a few a ballstuds under the inner ballstud in the front.. that helped too

cool. like I said your track is higher bite than mine. IMO, it is needed on high bite. Yeah, I thought the ball stud washers up front helped me too. Did you make any other changes?

a little camber in the front was needed but not much... twisted the rear shock collars a few times.. the rear end looked a little lower than the front.. ride height was 22 in the rear and 24 in the front.. bumped it up to 24 all around.. seemed to be much better but still lacking something.. not sure what tho.. consistency is key!

yeah, I still need more confidence in what the track will do. Seems erratic now. I run my buggy and pull clean lap after clean lap. I drive the truck and I look like I am drunk.

tuning
 

i know i am new to this forum but i have been reading from post 1400 untell now and i see a lot of people having truble tuning there trucks i have spent the last 2 mounths diving every day at 2 tracks in san antonio every time i dive i chang some thing and the truck for the most part is on ralls many of the setups on here are grate plase to start but there is one ajustment you all fall to us and that is an up travel limit in the front 2mm this truck has a lot of travel and that is y people see it work beter with other brand shocks they are shorter
the setup
steering rack standerd
bump 0
career 2mm
arm outer hole
tower mid hole
spring yellow
bar 2.2 yellow
sink long tower 2mm
polly 19 overdrive
tentioner #5 hole
foll time 4x4
front 25w piston 1.3 with 2stage mod and 2holes drilled out 1/16
2mm rebound limit 6mm up
rear 20w same piston
0 rebound 4mm up
bar 2.0 blue
spring f blue
8mm mod mid holl
tower 2mm, long link
arm outer hole
tower mid
polly standerd 20
standerd sliper 2.5mm(new nut any time it gets to hot
tention #2
wheel base long
3-2
ride h 21mm
battery stick
3oz next to servo(not needed for good handeling )
rx8 4600 14t-62 amp limit 65% push 7% timing min 5'(4700uf cap)
savox sc-1256tg(4400 cap)
camber 1.5 all
tires callibers fole tred
diffs 30k-7k

the 3 oz is for the losi when we crash or they nock my around it jumps beter with out

Question...

I just had a JC hi-flow body painted and I need to mount it.

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...mT_rc00013.jpg

Which holes do I need to ream ? To me it looks like the first indents on the front and rear.

Thanks