There all made in the same factory in china, so why pay 109.99 for a reedy when you can get the same quality from a turnigy nano tech?

check out this vid of Gens Ace manufacturing lipo batteries.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CgfOvv8Byk

Doesn't look like junk to me.

I only have had the V2 diff but from what I know it is the same but with the spur gear and the added pins. Without pins at my track, with good traction, the weight transfers back and the power to the front. Having rear traction on a tight good bite clay track made all the power go to the front; kind of what happens with the stock slipper, and I had no speed off the corners and most of the time just made the truck push from the front wheel spin. On bigger flowing tracks tracks this might not be the case but at my home track it is big! Now of course other things new things like the shorty rear springs and camber link changes help keep the weight not all dump on the rear wheels now. The pins add the adaptability similar to changing your center diff fluid. Some tracks you might like more pins some less so now it is an option. :tire: I think what I like about this set-up so far is that the pins only function on power and off power you have the diff action. Braking and turning into corners my truck is brilliant (when I am :lol:) and then on power I have a more stable drive off the corners.

Another section we have at our track right now is a drop stair case sweeper that with the slipper was some times edgy to do. With the diff turn the wheels and apply power and the truck skips right down around the corner.

More confidence = quicker lap times :nod:

As for jumping I have never had the issues you guys have.

I just put the v1 Center Diff in my truck, thought I'd try it out during practice Friday night. Is it normal to have some play side to side with the spur gear? I've got it as tight as I can get it. Thanks for the help!

yup.

got my motor in its tight not bad. win i hook up the esc will it spin in the right way.?:confused::confused:

Thanks Evil Genius!

yes it is normal, the spur floats. Do not attempt to "tighten" the spur tight,its impossible. Only tighten til the spring is full compressed and thats is all that is needed.

I've had good luck with the Turnigy brand. I bought 4 5000mah 40c packs last July when I got the truck and have used them to cut off on average once per week. I just bought two of the Nano Tech 6000mah 65c packs and they deliver solid power right to cut off. I set my cut off at 3.3 volts per cell and don't charge above 5amps. Takes an hour to charge but doesn't heat up the battery either. I also don't charge at the track so the batteries are cold when I do charge. Heat kills electronics. That's why the "scope dopes" in CIC wore jackets on watch even when we were in the tropics. Lots of AC in there space.

This being a lighter truck with a low resistance light weight drive train means it doesn't pull the amps that others do. Which means my batteries don't have to work as hard and last longer.

killing your batteries
 

Ok, so I have seen a slight trend to a few of you guys saying that you are puffing your batteries.

Someone asked about some of the circumstances leading up to it. For those that have ruined a battery, will you please elaborate more on the circumstances leading up to it, if you can recall?

-What ESC and Motor were you running?
-What gear are you running?
-Was your ESC/Motor hotter than normal? Temp taken?
-Outside bashing on a large track or indoor clay track, etc?

I am sorry that you guys may have ruined a pack or two here and there, but I seriously don't want to ruin one of my batteries and it would be nice to know some of the signs.

Im having problems getting batteries to fit. What are my options? I bought a dynamite 6000mah 30c hard case lipo but it seems too tall cant get the battery strap over it.

I hear ya', first time I had to yell down to the marshal to "kick my truck" to get it off the line while qualifying I ordered a name brand battery when I got home

I'm looking forward to the pins as well. The front power transfer causes the fronts to balloon going down the straight and when hitting full power out of a turn. A little throttle control takes care of the problem but will be nice to just grip it and rip it.

did a search and came up with only 1 result, which wasn't relevant.

I'm looking at getting a 550 4.0 turn motor (either the reedy sonic or the orion vortex vst sc550). What gearing would everyone start with? Saw on the first page only reccs for as low as 550 4.5 turn.

thanks,

62/11