which of these savox will be better in a sc10 4x4 factory team?
 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Savox-SC-125...item3375234efe

OR

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAVOX-DIGITA...item5ae73fc142

Both are great servo's but I'd go with the 1258, has more torque and the sc10 turning ratio is so much you don't need a servo with alot of speed.........

That is what EXPO is for, I have mine set at around -10 or -15 and small corrections are super gentle but when you need to turn it turns.

Ok here you go, I didnt want to take it all the way off...Zip ties are expensive!

With the fan on
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...y/IMG_0098.jpg

And looking through were the fan blows
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...y/IMG_0101.jpg

You can see the two slots on the front and see through the slots on the back, the air comes out nice and even and sort of surrounds the motor. Took my temps from 180 to 85 on the sc4x and from 160 @5min to 80 @10min with the tenshock. Had to route the wires from the motor through the chassis where the RX box would go to get them out of the way so the fan would fit on top of the motor. I actually like it like that, no chance of a wire getting caught on anything and it is nice and streamlined.

Oh and I swear my truck isnt that dirty, damn camera makes it look like I took it through some mud puddles or something. It might be time to give it a cleaning though.

+1 on this.
Most cars use a lot more servo travel than SC10, most around 120 -140 on the radio's endpoints as opposed to 60-90 on the SC10. This means the servo is losing some mechanical resolution and makes the steering lock to lock very fast, too fast for me. To get more resolution I used a shorter arm. Here's a drawing showing what I mean.
http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/50...600x600Q85.jpg
My endpoints are now around 140 and my steering is definitely not as twitchy as some of the other SC10s I have driven with similar setups and electronics.

I got a fully loaded SC10 4x4 on the market. PM if you want more info and pics. Thank you

man these Chinese guys need to hire an english speaking person to translate thier english translation for english speaking or understanding person.:flaming:





No program card or program box needed, USB Flash/Programmer connects directly to your computer

You will receive Brushless Hobbies latest software which includes 6 different data bases you can flash to which enable different ESC capabilities. One data base is specifically designed to meet ROAR racing requirements, the other five...from mild to wild.


Suggested for us in 1/8 , 1/10 RC Trucks\Cars, wheelie bars optional.


The output, a motor melting continuous 120A, true 640 Burst for 10 seconds... a tweaker’s dream.

Compatible with all sensorless brushless motors and most sensored brushless motors.

BEC Output is 5.7V/3A linear mode with a bullet proof built-in BEC


Technical-What's inside: Why don't others list this?


Internal Resistance: 0.0006 Ohm
24 Toshiba (Japan) FETs rated @ 30V, ~0.006 (U-MOS VII-H) The very latest tech 8 pin FETS available featuring High-Speed switching
Small gate change: QSW = 14 nC (typ.) produces very low noise


The result? Excellent start-up, smoooth performance


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Low drain-source on-resistance: RDS(ON) = 2.6 mΩ (typ.) (VGS = 4.5 V)
Low leakage current: IDSS = 10 μA (max) (VDS = 30 V) Enhancement mode;
Silicon Labs (Austin Texas) USB, 48 MIPS, 64 kB Flash, 10-Bit ADC, 32-Pin Mixed-Signal MCU (The ESC Brains)...it doesn't get any better than this !!!


Rounded out with a pair of Rubycon (Japan) 470uF 25v Capacitors


General Motor Recommendations
7.4V Lipo (4-6S NIMH)

On Road, Greater than 4.5TOff Road, Greater than 6.5T


11.1V Lipo (7-8S NIMH) general motor recommendation

On Road, greater than 6.5TOff Road, greater than 9.5T




Note: This is for reference only. Car type, stock Gearing, custom gearing, tire size battery used are among many things that make successful performance. Refer to your car specifications and build carefully before ordering.


Physical Specifications (80A and 120A)


44mm 37mm 30mm (Cooling fan height included)
Weight: 72g (Cooling fan included)

Overall Features


Exotic, multiple capabilities. Settings include boost Timing and turbo timing functions. The included 508 Data base sets Blinky Mode, a must have at Track Events.


Automatically switches to sensorless mode when sensor cable is not used.
Dual mode switching when sensored

Turbo mode after initial roll out can be set to occur and adjustable by RPM level. In other words, the best of both worlds equal more power and speed. Delay and other truly advanced settings as well.


Software upgradable. All settings are adjustable through the included BH USB Flash/ Programmer which directly connects the ESC to your computer, no program card or program box needed. BH software program includes 6 BH ESC special tuned software data bases, 3 modes per data base. !2 setting in each of these for a mind bending 216 adjustable items not counting the levels per item. Confused yet :-)

Each ESC is personlly stress tested and set to 508 data base before shipping. Tune up from there in steps as you learn.

Programming:

ESC is easily programmed by any of the following means (1) Set button on on\off switch (2) HW program card (3) HW 2 in 1 box (4) USB Flash/Programmer...the only way to go and right on your computer screen. The number of setting options presented adjusts to type of motor used and software data base selected.
Multiple protection features: Low voltage cut-off protection/ Over-heat protection/ Throttle signal loss protection/ Motor jammed protection.


Splash proof and dust proof

Extrene firmware and software upgrades and downgrades, using different motors automatically changes the level of adjustments available all while hooked directly to your computer for easy viewing. Available only from Brushless Hobbies !!!!

Box includes the following:




1 x 120A Sensored\Sensorless Brushless ESC
1 x USB Flash/Programmer
1 x sensor cable for sensored motors


Our latest Software Version and instructions are available via e-mail (Gmail will not take attachments) as well as FTP download.


Be first to repower with this amazing combo; and be first at the finish line.



Video

When doing the 8mm hub with the "c" tower from what I am seeing on WC pics is it flipped upside down? Also do you face the holes on the tower into the chassis or the hubs or does it not matter? Not trying to beat a dead horse but just alittle :confused:

so overall you guys are telling me to get this savox servo for my sc10 4x4 ft kit truck?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAVOX-SPEED-...item5894420d50

Yep , flip it upside down & install on hub , grind top of the hub tab flat & level ...

Don't understand what you mean by "face"...

However
use 6mm of shims under the stud on tower
If you have a standard kit you will need a set of the longer 12mm ball studs...

have fun

GREMLINS! ** HELP **
 

PLEASE HELP

- problem -

upon acceleration there is a high pitch squeal/grinding noise coming from the rear end. after it reaches a little past 1/4 throttle it stops. no problem getting up to high speed. but the initial acceleration cause the noise, whether the throttle is rolled on slowly or punched.

i only drove in a straight line and sometimes held the truck off the ground and up to my ear to listen.

i have a shopping list of parts ready to be ordered(all drive train) and it would be nice to figure this out.

- attempts to fix -

the diff is brand new. only use on it is driving it down the sidewalk trying to figure this out. i checked the gear mesh multiple times, made sure all washers, bearings, spacers were all THERE and greased properly. i replaced clutch pads, and tuned it while out driving it. tightening/loosening past the 3.5mm stock suggestion. everything rolls and feels smooth when the truck if taken apart. the diff, belt, spur, pinion, etc. thought it might be the pulley scratching the diff screws until i backed the screws out just a little.

- planning to fix/replace -

belt, tensioner w/ bearing, pulley/clicker, gearbox, diff bearings, top shaft, clutch (VTS4) with updated belt and pulley covers, clutch spring/washer set.

if i could post a video i would. its annoying.

Sorry meant point inward or outward. I have 7 mm under the rear ball stud. Thanks for the quick answer. I find your comments to be very helpful.

Foots,
I have not idea what your talking about. For one he is from OKC, so whats that have to do with China? The owners name is Stan....... Not sure even Chinese people pick that name when they come here.....And i understood the instructions perfectly.

nice, i like that.

I would guess either belt rubbing on something, the tensioner or your motor. Does it get to speed fine? We had a guy at our track with a slash and the mag part of his rotor came apart from the shaft and would squeal like a mofo.
Yea, seems straightforward to me...

Thanks, I had a piece of material sitting there so I said what the heck. I just kinda started on it and kept working it down until I got something I liked. No plans or solidmodel first, just messing around. Took way longer than I would want to admit on my little mini mill.