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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

Sludge-T 04-05-2012 11:48 AM


Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED (Post 10563596)
Ok guys and gals.. Here are my results after getting the FT on some scales...I used 4 of the 1000g eBay jewelry scales. Definitely NOT what I expected to see...

Mine is equipped with Spektrum servo and receiver w cap,RX8,Tenshock 411 4600,Reedy saddles.. I measured it on my wooden kitchen table and moved the scales around from corner to corner to make sure I didn't have a bad scale. For anyone wanting to verify the accuracy of a scale a nickel weighs 5 grams.. But I digress.. On to the numbers....:nod:

LF 21.39g RF 18.19g

LR 23.66g RR 26.05g

Totally shocked the motor/esc side is 2.4g lighter than the receiver side. Only thing I can figure is the belt assembly/slipper is all offset to the right.

Also pretty wild how light the front end is!!!! Now thinking all my weight is going to end up around the servo.

http://robrobinette.com/corner_weight_calc.htm
Input the numbers on that site

SOuthernFRIED 04-05-2012 11:50 AM


Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr. (Post 10563600)
Light car lol.
It should be oz right?
The front being light we are aware of however I don't think anyone car has been that right heavy with saddles before.

Ha! be very light huh?!?!?! lol

Yes should be oz. changed it:)

Evil Genius jr. 04-05-2012 11:52 AM

So p[lugging it in the calculator the left and right is pretty even but you have a huge wedge.
Read here:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/art...orner-weights/

Sludge-T 04-05-2012 11:54 AM

Left Front weight: 647.5 Right Front weight: 640.2

Left Rear weight: 751.3 Right Rear weight: 750.4

Cross Weight = 1391.5 49.9% (50% is optimal)

I got those numbers after doing the saddle mod with 4800 Gens Ace need to recalculate since now I have the 6000's

SOuthernFRIED 04-05-2012 12:00 PM

Somebody posted a couple dozen pages back about needing 4oz in the right front.. That seems to be a pretty accurate number. And it look like that would balance everything pretty well.

Speedchild3038 04-05-2012 12:03 PM

Tire help-
 

Originally Posted by Edumakated (Post 10563012)
That is normal since RC tires aren't belted so at high rpms with no load on the tires, the centrifugal force pulls the tire away from the rim. You don't need to "fix it". All you need to do is a quick blip to make sure the drive train is free and functioning properly, but never just gas it hard while the car is off the ground for an extended period of time or else you get the pizza cutter look you are referring too.


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10562911)
Don't free rev the truck.

[QUOTE=Wild Cherry;10563027]Speed ,


Can try strapping a piece of tape on the inside of the tire before gluing ..

The tires can only stretch if they are spinning with no grip , if they had traction the tire speed would not be strong enough to do otherwise ....




Ok I have to say thanks for the imput from each of you. It's good to know that I havent some how created a real big problem for myself with this up grade. and the tape idea might just work out some to help keep the tire from deforming slightly. and I wil for sure remember not to let it free rev. It just looked so I odd when I noticed the tires deforming and it had me worried. So thanks for the help and anyone else has any other ideas than please let me know what you think.:nod:

Cameron Kellogg 04-05-2012 12:22 PM


Originally Posted by IRM616 (Post 10563189)
thank you.

I should add also to run it a few packs and really get a feel for how the truck drives with the V2 diff before changing pins in and out. Especially if you are coming from a slipper set-up.

CraigMBA 04-05-2012 12:42 PM


Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED (Post 10563596)
Ok guys and gals.. Here are my results after getting the FT on some scales...I used 4 of the 1000g eBay jewelry scales. Definitely NOT what I expected to see...

Mine is equipped with Spektrum servo and receiver w cap,RX8,Tenshock 411 4600,Reedy saddles.. I measured it on my wooden kitchen table and moved the scales around from corner to corner to make sure I didn't have a bad scale. For anyone wanting to verify the accuracy of a scale a nickel weighs 5 grams.. But I digress.. On to the numbers....:nod:

LF 21.39 oz RF 18.19 oz

LR 23.66 oz RR 26.05 oz

Totally shocked the motor/esc side is 2.4oz lighter than the receiver side. Only thing I can figure is the belt assembly/slipper is all offset to the right.

Also pretty wild how light the front end is!!!! Now thinking all my weight is going to end up around the servo.

You need to make sure the surface the scales are on is perfectly flat and level. If it is not, one corner will read light and another will read heavy.

After you do that, verify that your ride height is exactly the same on both sides. I usually set at 24mm to start, and check in in four corners.

Then, you need to verify that the preload is the same in all four shocks. If you have one shock that has more preload (than another on the same axle) you need to start looking for something bent (like a warped A arm).

Once you do all these steps, then you put it on the scales.

Assuming that you did all these steps, I'd be inclined to take a half turn out of the RR and add half a turn to the RF to start.

Cain 04-05-2012 12:58 PM


Originally Posted by Oasis (Post 10563288)
Is it just me or is the SC10 labor intensive..

yeah, but, be glad the the parts seem to not slop out as much as I hear of the *other* vehicle.

SOuthernFRIED 04-05-2012 01:06 PM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10563791)
You need to make sure the surface the scales are on is perfectly flat and level. If it is not, one corner will read light and another will read heavy.

After you do that, verify that your ride height is exactly the same on both sides. I usually set at 24mm to start, and check in in four corners.

Then, you need to verify that the preload is the same in all four shocks. If you have one shock that has more preload (than another on the same axle) you need to start looking for something bent (like a warped A arm).

Once you do all these steps, then you put it on the scales.

Assuming that you did all these steps, I'd be inclined to take a half turn out of the RR and add half a turn to the RF to start.

Followed all of that using a digital caliper to verify prior to weighing. I don't have much control over that particular surface, it's a large wooden kitchen table that seats six. Probably some warp to the wood. Truck is a fresh build and has only been run up and down the street for about a minute.

I still need to add my transponder, so I have some ability to change the bias with where I locate that. Also plan on adding the fan to the RX8 and that will change things as well.

I'm going to add those, and measure again on the absolute flatest surface I have available.... A big huge thick piece of glass:nod:

CraigMBA 04-05-2012 01:14 PM


Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED (Post 10563868)
Followed all of that using a digital caliper to verify prior to weighing. I don't have much control over that particular surface, it's a large wooden kitchen table that seats six. Probably some warp to the wood. Truck is a fresh build and has only been run up and down the street for about a minute.

I still need to add my transponder, so I have some ability to change the bias with where I locate that. Also plan on adding the fan to the RX8 and that will change things as well.

I'm going to add those, and measure again on the absolute flatest surface I have available.... A big huge thick piece of glass:nod:

I use a laminated MDF cabinet door. Mine has three screws in it to further level it, and a bubble level mounted on the flat part.

Looks like this one:

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1638

Moving weight around has less change than you'd think. Not to be a jerk, but if your chassis is as fresh as you say it is, I suspect you aren't doing as good a job measuring your ride height as you think you are.

CraigMBA 04-05-2012 01:19 PM


Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED (Post 10563660)
Somebody posted a couple dozen pages back about needing 4oz in the right front.. That seems to be a pretty accurate number. And it look like that would balance everything pretty well.

Left front, and only if you are using stick packs.

If you're using saddles, the weight should be almost dead perfect right off the trailer.

fq06 04-05-2012 01:24 PM

I'm running stick pack and had to add to the front left.

CraigMBA 04-05-2012 01:27 PM

Just guessing, but I think the guy with 5 oz of cross weight has one of the front shocks in the rear and vise versa. Or a spring in the wrong location. Or something built wrong.

fq06 04-05-2012 01:30 PM

It took 3.5oz on mine, but I'm running a 550 can.


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