SC10 4x4 Thread
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i got some goodys for my truck to day from a main the new battry set up.
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ah I just want to buy one esc and not have to keep upgrading and thats why I've been looking at the RX8 I know I will prob go through diff motors but I'd rather have my ems covered and bullet proof so to speak. I kinda made that mistake with my rc10t4 but I got it before brushless was really an affordable option at the time.
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ah I just want to buy one esc and not have to keep upgrading and thats why I've been looking at the RX8 I know I will prob go through diff motors but I'd rather have my ems covered and bullet proof so to speak. I kinda made that mistake with my rc10t4 but I got it before brushless was really an affordable option at the time.
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I have sent in Teken stuff and they have excellent turn around time and good CS.
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the tekin is in my price range once I finish getting pedals for my mountain bike. my budget has changed a bit since I've gotten older which is nice. I like customer service vs. warranty to be honest. And it seems a lot of people are happy with it specially in the arizona heat
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I got two of the HPI Q-Base speedos (MMP with hpi badging) and they have a TWO YEAR WARRANTY!!! I Had one go bad on me when I was attacked head on by a nitro truggy going the wrong way down a very fast straight away. Went over to HPI because I'm local and they replaced it same day.
Very happy with them. The BEC sucks, but I always have run an external BEC anyways for HV servos.
Very happy with them. The BEC sucks, but I always have run an external BEC anyways for HV servos.
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I have been slowly building my new FT kit and thought I would point out a few things. These may have already been covered but I am not reading through 20000 posts. Screws are very tight going in when assembling(to the point I was worried about snapping heads off)and I recommend using a soap or other lubricant for threads. Steering post that retains bellcrank and servo saver needs to be checked frequently when tightening screw through chassis brace pivot for torquing of plastic that in turn binds up steering. Also found very small brass chips in diff housings that need to be thoroughly cleaned and blown out with compressed air. I went ahead and washed all metal diff parts in denatured alcohol to verify clean and assembled diffs dry to check for proper shimming of side and planet gears. I found plastic fingers on diff housing cap to be too long causing planet gears to be forced into side gear in diff cup when case tightened and causing notchy feeling and binding in diff. These fingers need some material removed for proper operation and no binding in diffs. Question, what side of the case have people seen failing under normal use, the deep cup side? This is as far as I have gotten but I will be updating as I continue build.
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Made my ball diff yesterday, with stuff I had laying around it cost me $3.50 for enough balls to make two, didn't even need the drill press, just used my trusty old drill, very easy to make and it does work great, going to mod it some more so it holds it's grease in better as I could see it getting dry pretty soon, big improvement over any other mod I've made (and that's all of the one's on here to date) I'm clad I made this before getting the FT slipper, can't see how that could be better than the ball diff, I'm sure AE will make a FT ball diff soon, it appears to be
"the fix".
"the fix".
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Made my ball diff yesterday, with stuff I had laying around it cost me $3.50 for enough balls to make two, didn't even need the drill press, just used my trusty old drill, very easy to make and it does work great, going to mod it some more so it holds it's grease in better as I could see it getting dry pretty soon, big improvement over any other mod I've made (and that's all of the one's on here to date) I'm clad I made this before getting the FT slipper, can't see how that could be better than the ball diff, I'm sure AE will make a FT ball diff soon, it appears to be
"the fix".
"the fix".
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Tech Master
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The RX8 was designed for 10lb rockets.....our truck is barely 6.5lbs....
I removed my fan after losing a blade, and my temps still stay below 110.... Granted, ambients around here are still dropping below freezing at night....
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Hell ya we use the fan!!!! Its 90 degrees in florida right now and we have to run undertrays On top of big amp draw motors
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I guess I should def run a fan or should I upgrade to a different fan? Ambient temps will start hitting 110+ soon I guess I should get a temp gun too hah
Last edited by corivus; 04-04-2012 at 01:00 AM.
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There's plenty of seal options, are you going rubber? I thought encasing the bearings might work, the inside is easy, but need the outside to stand up to the movement, be keen to hear what you come up with, will work on mine tomorrow.
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Hey does anyone have a good fix or some suggestions for the bell crank on the sc10 4x4 kit version...Mine just broke after 5 mins of driving on our local track...Any review on the STRC Aluminum Bellcrank?...Thanks