Iono maybe try replacing the top cap, or xrings.........

How much external limiting are you running? Spacers on the shock shaft?

5mm seems to be needed.

Yeah, I will try replacing the shock cap, but I don't have any new bladders to try replacing that too.

Running 3mm of limiters now, plus have the boots on too. Is 5mm really needed?

What do you mean by "blow out" a shock ?
or
what is happening or the problem ?

Running the bladders with the bleed screw removed... oil blows out the bleed screw hole sometime during a run (oil leaking past the bladder). Shocks have been great this way for months (no leaks).

That's a easy problem to resolve ..:nod:



The seal or bladder may have not been seated in its groove when you tighten down the cap ...

resulting with a cut seal

or


You may have over tighten the cap and cut the seal ...




solution
Replace seal , make sure it is seated correctly inside cap , be careful not do not over tighten cap ....

blown bladder
 

If it is coming out of the top bleed hole it has t be a bladder issue.

Start with a new bladder coated with a light coating of o ring silicon ,check cap and top of shock for any burrs or damage to cap from impact. Verify travel of shock piston , make sure it is not traveling high enough to make contact with bladder that sits down into shock body a mm or two.Use limiter to limit upward travel ( verify that the shaft has not uscrewed itself from mount eye giving it a bit more travel than before. sometimes when adjusting preload the whole shock body spins, not the collar and travels out of shock mount eye) then verify the shock shaft screw has not backed outor has a burr in top and is punching hole in bladder. filll with oil set the o ring on shock body and seat it in place expelling any extra oil to prevent hydrolocking Then build with no reboud. do not overtighten cap as it will cause tearing and pinching . then give it the travel test , make sure you have full travel with no unusual resistance and or leakage.

This should fix it

Only without the boots, with boots 3mm is fine.

Thanks much guys. The bladder "looks" fine, but maybe it did get damaged somehow. I guess I will have to see if someone at the track tomorrow has a bladder I can borrow. LHS has none in stock.

what river ya down by
 

Where do ya live I have a bunch of bladders .

Ok my initial review of the FT clutch setup is that everything is going great so far............ I like how they designed it (even if they stole it from here) and after a full day at the track (about an 45+ min of actual run time) there is no glazing at all. There is a slight shine but no major glaze or indents from the slipper hub...... I made no adjustments as far as tightening it down more at the track and it felt like it had the same power on each pack I put through it.


Kind of hard to see since its late here, but there is only a slight shine on each outer pad.... The inside one still looks new......

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/DSCF0289.jpg

Ae V2 slipper
 

Sounds good & thanks for the report...

AE's spare part handling rather annoys me..

You can buy the VTS slipper conversion kit, containing almost all parts. Which is great.
One part that is missing is rather critical: The updated slipper cover, without which the new slipper will not fit. A conversion kit is supposed to get you everything you need in one go.
Now, that's not too bad yet. What IS bad is that you can only get the cover as part of the complete belt cover kit, so you end up with a pile of parts you don't need, which cost 2/3rds of the price of the conversion kit, and on top of that, has the very same part number as the old one. So if you order online, if the store still has old stock, you end up with the wrong part on top of everything. Why not sell the part as part of the conversion kit and slap 3$ on the price to even it out?

Different example: The m3 flanged locknuts used on the shock towers. You can only buy them in packs of 20 (!). That's more than you'll need in a lifetime of using the truck. Now, I am aware they're only like 4 bucks in the US, but in germany, they charge 11$ for the nuts and another 8 for shipping.

Traxxas is a good example on how to do it right there.. you can get just about every part seperately, in bags of 4 or 5 for small parts.. considering AE sells kits, they should be selling seperate parts.

I was at the track last night, and a few guys (mostly Losi guys) were saying that ae is already building a new truck to replace the SC10 4x4 that is a shaft driven truck like the Losi is. Just talk or has anyone else heard the same thing?

Thought I would share my FT build with you guys and show you how easy it was for me to make everything fit with a RX8 esc.

First, I left the rx box OUT during the build. Sure, it gives you the "clean" look, and I would've used it in any other circumstance, but since this is a racer, and not basher, it was not needed.

I placed the rx under the belt as shown. A 1/8" hole was drilled in the lip to hold the antenna tube. I pigtailed it so the antenna will fit under the body.

http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/z...9/544794a6.jpg

To get the RX8 to fit (I used Southern Frieds) I simply dremeled the battery brace at the corner. The esc fits tight against that corner of the battery pack and will work well. The poles will face INSIDE the chassis. The wire to the rx will fit through the slot where the rx box tab is SUPPOSED to go on the center fin. I do not use switches, so it will be removed.

http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/z...9/84b6b1f8.jpg

For the transponder, I use a My Laps. Taken out of its case, it fits perfectly in between the ribs over the bell cranks. I do not interchange my transponder between other cars, so this works well for me.

http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/z...9/a4995c3c.jpg

Hope this can help some of you that are contemplating how to mount your gear.