I am still running the stock 2 slipper pad setup, obviously getting mad amounts of slip and keep glazing the pads...

So what is better for the truck the center diff from RC Shox or running the clutch basket?:confused:

At the moment, I run on High-Med bite indoor track - really tight layout..

As long as the rates are right, sure. ICRC a B4 weighs in at about three pounds, the SC10 4x4 weighs in at double that.

I wrote manifesto/piece over on the B4.1 thread on the subject. The practical answer is it is very difficult (read that: expensive) to do it in a single spring, and most (all?) of them wind up being linear anyway. If you want a progressive (others call it a dual rate spring) you need to use two separate springs with two different diameter wires and two different numbers of coils/inch.

The thing to remember about springs is they are a simple device - they are a piece of wire of a measurable length, measurable thickness, and measurable temper. None of that changes when you wind it into a coil.

Those spring setups were what I was thinking of doing. I had no idea proline was doing them. I figured that with the shorter front springs there is plenty of room to add a couple coils of softer spring to give a progressive feel to them. I have some delrin rod that would work for a joiner between the two. Something to tinker with.

Does anyone know of a good option to the stock o rings on the outdrives? I think I read a couple of months back where someone was using something other than the stock ones with good luck.

Yep, that is what I am thinking and the new upgrades will make a noticeable improvement to this truck I am sure. Can't wait to also buy the new FT kit.

Weight. 540 vs 550 can motors.
 

I am currently running a 550 can motor in my SC10. I find that my truck has plenty power and such. But I was talking with someone recently about weight characteristics of a 540 can motor and how much 'snappier' that it feels for the short bursts on the double and triple jumps.

So, for those that have experience or comments on this matter, please chime in. What do you prefer now, 540 or 550? And why?

540 tekin 4pole (had the tekin sc4x 550)........... For one easier to balance between front and rear as well as cross balance. Two the tekin 540 4pole has noticeably more torque then the 550 can and just as much top end.....

If you're not concerned with being ROAR legal check the Tenshock sc411 motors. I went from the CC 1410 to the sc411 4600 kv and it was huge gain in usable power. It's a 4 pole 550 monster but very smooth when rolling on the power and is very snappy when you put the hammer down.

I just switched from the tekin scx 4.5 to the pro 4 4600 and love it. Looking back the truck felt almost a little lazy with the 550 compared to the 540. My previous fast lap was 36.2. Yesterday in the main I had 3 laps in the low 35s. Running the same gear as I did with the 550 (13/62), did have less runtime though. The A main was 10 minutes, I crossed the loop at 9:44 and hit cutoff going into turn 1. I still managed to get third without finishing the last lap. I think once I turn the current limit down a little I will be fine. I also run the exotec with saddles. If you are running the stock chassis the 4600 may be a little much but it does great with the added weight. My vote is 100% pro 4. Hope this helps.

Mounting solution for fan on CC 1410 4pole
 

Thought I would share this. With the outside temps going up, I was getting more concerned about the issue with not being able to mount the motor fan when running the CC 1410 3800kv 4pole in the SC10 4x4.

I am a fan of using an underbody.....it just keeps everything clean and tight. With a bit of extra lexan trimmed to fit and zip ties for easy access and ability to change if needed, I have used the under body to square up and mount the fan.

I trimmed any plastic from he fan that is unneeded. I'm sure this isn't as good as having the fan flush to the motor, but with the tops of the windows now cut out I should be pushing some decent air past the motor.

Just for cool factor, I also hooked this up to an on/off module from RC Lights and can choose to run the fan or not on the fly using the AUX channel via my Sektrum tx.

Hopefully you can see it ok here;

photobucket.com/albums/w409/Dmoil1/SC10 4x4

The clutch basket isn't really needed. You can use 2 garodisk and the stock slipper and be fine. The garodisks are made by RCSHOX.

SO the question is, Garodisks or Center diff? I would give both a shot. The garodisks make the stock slipper work as it should.

I run on a similar style track, I use the garodisks, they work great. but I'd like to give the center diff a try as well...

so I think I'm getting 'brownout's' with my setup. I would be running just fine and then all of a sudden, truck would shut off and/or would have steering and no throttle and/or throttle/esc would come on/off. the rx8 was giving an indication of low/no transmitter signal (all led's blinking). :confused: very weird.

It's weird cause it's an intermittent problem. Not sure if it is a combination of the pro4,rx8 and savox servo drawing too much amps at the same time or if it possibly is another problem like my transmitter not having enough volts/charge?? Randy Pike said maybe my transmitter is frequency hopping?? He also said to throw a cap on, so fingers crossed.

I have a spectrum cap that I'm going to throw in the receiver to see if it fixes the problem.

With the Pro4 4600 and the Center Diff geared at 13/62 I can creep up to a double squeeze the throttle and easily leap over. the pro 4 has the torque of the 550 but has great top end too.

Is it the Savox HV servo? If so, I know a lot of people having the same problem. They gave up using the HV servos on ebuggy and went to the regular Savox. They don't seem to work right without their own BEC and battery.

I'm having the exact same problem with mine. DX3r with fresh batteries, Novak 4.5 Ballistic 550, Novak Havoc Pro esc with Xdrive, & a Spektrum cap installed.