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Originally Posted by jammintosc104x4
(Post 9150741)
re west coast (my local track) how did the top 4 run 20 laps in the sat. points race? i could not be there...
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Originally Posted by BLbound
(Post 9150609)
This is my problem too...I raced mine for the first time yesterday and I had my servo always wanting to veer to the right or left. I'm wondering if my servo has just gotten old and tired (it was doing steering duty for a kyosho st-rr for a while)? Today I could center the servo & checked it in front of my house...I would go up and down the street a little and come back & it would be off center again! I haven't pulled off the servo arm yet to see if it's the arm...I hope I don't have to buy another servo...I didn't crash enough yesterday to warrant it, but then again it maybe that it's just old and has lost it's centering ability? A few people have posted this same problem...have you guys fixed it? Please let me know...thanks!
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9150764)
ThunderbirdJunkie's 1257 in his XXX-SCT is about 6 months old and is starting to have issues recentering, FWIW.
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Originally Posted by jammintosc104x4
(Post 9150755)
Just did that and there is little to no movement on any of my cvd cup. the whole thing moves the amount between the barring and the pin
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Originally Posted by BLbound
(Post 9150773)
Thanks t-bird...maybe it is time to get a new servo. It's a hitec 5966 which they don't make anymore! :smile: Arrgggg...another $100 gone to the r/c gods :deathstar
It ain't cheap...but well...it's not often ThunderbirdJunkie uses something of somebody else's and wishes he spent twice as much:lol: Just make sure you buy a few extra HPI K4.6 backplate screws:lol: |
Originally Posted by Dragrcr
(Post 9150787)
Should have specified, I'm talking about the diff cup/dog bone cup...
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Originally Posted by BLbound
(Post 9150760)
I ran in the expert sc class...I have no idea?!? I didn't stick around to look at the race results...it was past midnight and I wanted to get home. I know TQ in my class was a 15 lapper...there's no way anyone went 20 laps in 5 minutes. Josh Newman went 16 laps in 4wd expert buggy and he was the fastest guy there...
it was a mistake on live rc it has the josh newman score correct 16 5:18 damn fast. but never mind went to wcrc site it has top sports guy @ 14 5:02 |
Originally Posted by jammintosc104x4
(Post 9150817)
that is tight on mine. thought that was odd there is not a pin cup in the rear
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Originally Posted by BLbound
(Post 9150609)
This is my problem too...I raced mine for the first time yesterday and I had my servo always wanting to veer to the right or left. I'm wondering if my servo has just gotten old and tired (it was doing steering duty for a kyosho st-rr for a while)? Today I could center the servo & checked it in front of my house...I would go up and down the street a little and come back & it would be off center again! I haven't pulled off the servo arm yet to see if it's the arm...I hope I don't have to buy another servo...I didn't crash enough yesterday to warrant it, but then again it maybe that it's just old and has lost it's centering ability? A few people have posted this same problem...have you guys fixed it? Please let me know...thanks!
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Originally Posted by offtraxx
(Post 9149072)
other than that, I noticed my rear wheels like to hop on the ruff areas of the track. I tried ride hight and oil changes. just can't suck up the bumps like my 2wd used to. has anybody tested other springs yet? a softer spring might help but my lhs doesn't have ae ones's in yet. what fits??
The problem is the shocks are sticking because of the crappy orings AE is trying to run in the shock cartridge, plus some of the cartridges the holes are to small or not round in shape. The fix I found was to make sure the holes are round and the right size by drilling or exacto knife. Then replace the bottom oring with an Ofna 1/8th shock oring and replace the top oring with an SC10 2wd oring packing both with RED Mobile 1 synthetic grease. This makes shocks smooth and free in movement and they don't leak. Hope this helps you & others" |
Originally Posted by BoneDoc
(Post 9150040)
Awesome driving. What's your setup there?
25wt rear no swaybars fultime 4wd -1 camber front and rear ezrun 60A speedo old velinion traxxas motor |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9149933)
Not sure if you realize this...but...in the steps where you're putting the bearings in, it tells you the size. You could've just like, opened the manual.
Your inability (or lack of desire) to help yourself is slightly unnerving.
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9149846)
Ooh, forgot to ask.
Never had an electric 4 wheel before. How do you set the slipper on this thing? The same way you would on a 2 wheel? yup. page 28. |
Again, anybody have feedback?? I have run into problems with my sc10 4wd...Mostly bc of user error, I think for running the truck without the two advised washers that go on the slipper assembly..I probably should have waited to put them on..Did you guys have the extra washers/shims that were recomended on this thread included in there kits??In running it, I think I destroyed my slipper thrust bearing due to the slipper thrust spacer not being machined right as noted b/f.....Well, i ran it without the spacers and needed to keep on tightening the slipper ( that everone says is the symptom of the mismanufactured part) and think i caused the slipper pads to burn out and destroy the slipper thrust bearing..The tranny is not binding as i free rolled it nicely..It also caused my 19t pulley to damage slightly..It's now a paper weight and feel bummed about it :cry:..I should have waited for the washers/spacers/shims/whatever you want to call them..:confused::mad:
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
(Post 9151197)
i believe it tells you in the manual how to set the slipper...
yup. page 28. |
Originally Posted by Sideways_1
(Post 9150437)
Anyone?
I did build them both at Half Rebound just to start with, which is when I found the above issue. |
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