5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
02-20-2012, 06:01 PM
Just ordered some saddles!!!!!!
02-20-2012, 06:09 PM
does stiffen the rear up though so its not great on super rough tracks.
1mm under camber link and shorter link both increase entry rotation but also give more traction on exit.
With the center dif you need to adjust your driving style slightly , you can enter the turns much more aggressive without the fear of the back coming around on exit.
02-20-2012, 06:11 PM
1mm under inner camber link ballstud - lowers roll center slightly to get more roll or "lean" in corners
shorter rear camber link - move ballstud on rear hub carrier in one hole, shortens camber link, makes camber change greater when rolling, keeping tire contact patch in corner on outside rear wheel flatter in relation to ground
Last edited by hELllNino; 02-20-2012 at 06:26 PM.
02-20-2012, 06:15 PM
02-20-2012, 06:17 PM
3-3 block - more toe in on rear, makes car turn quicker
1mm under inner camber link ballstud - lowers roll center slightly to get more roll or "lean" in corners
shorter rear camber link - move ballstud on rear hub carrier in one hole, shortens camber link, makes camber change greater when rolling, keeping tire contact patch in corner on outside rear wheel flatter in relation to ground
1mm under inner camber link ballstud - lowers roll center slightly to get more roll or "lean" in corners
shorter rear camber link - move ballstud on rear hub carrier in one hole, shortens camber link, makes camber change greater when rolling, keeping tire contact patch in corner on outside rear wheel flatter in relation to ground
02-20-2012, 06:19 PM
3-3 block, 1mm under rear camber link, 1 notch shorter on the rear camber link. this allows you to rotate before the apex and will give you better drive on exit. I am now discovering that alot of this on power push is coming from the rotation of the motor........ more on this later.
3-3 block, gives increased on power steering and a little rear rotation on entry.
does stiffen the rear up though so its not great on super rough tracks.
1mm under camber link and shorter link both increase entry rotation but also give more traction on exit.
With the center dif you need to adjust your driving style slightly , you can enter the turns much more aggressive without the fear of the back coming around on exit.
does stiffen the rear up though so its not great on super rough tracks.
1mm under camber link and shorter link both increase entry rotation but also give more traction on exit.
With the center dif you need to adjust your driving style slightly , you can enter the turns much more aggressive without the fear of the back coming around on exit.
3-3 block - more toe in on rear, makes car turn quicker
1mm under inner camber link ballstud - lowers roll center slightly to get more roll or "lean" in corners
shorter rear camber link - move ballstud on rear hub carrier in one hole, shortens camber link, makes camber change greater when rolling, keeping tire contact patch in corner on outside rear wheel flatter in relation to ground
1mm under inner camber link ballstud - lowers roll center slightly to get more roll or "lean" in corners
shorter rear camber link - move ballstud on rear hub carrier in one hole, shortens camber link, makes camber change greater when rolling, keeping tire contact patch in corner on outside rear wheel flatter in relation to ground
02-20-2012, 06:27 PM
02-20-2012, 06:33 PM
02-20-2012, 06:40 PM
shocks
hey guys!!! i have a new factory team 4x4 kit and i wanted some opinions. First, i like the factory team shocks that came with the kit, but someone told me that the kyosho velvet shocks are better? first will they fit? and can someone confirm that they are better?
02-20-2012, 06:53 PM
Not on the 4w. The FT shocks are fine. You might like the RCShox pistons though.
02-20-2012, 06:54 PM
Either way, everyone goes on and on about Kyosho shocks and Springs. My Factory team upgrades for the 4x4 are fantastic, rebuild fast and never leak. And they are silky smooth.
02-20-2012, 06:57 PM
The velvet shocks are better quality shocks compared to most, but they aren't big bore and that is more important with these heavy trucks.
02-20-2012, 08:34 PM
recently i bought my first rc.
i took the motor out for something and the next time i raced it was driving funny. i do not know where they came from or what they are but two peices had been wedged under the battery they looked like this
i took the motor out for something and the next time i raced it was driving funny. i do not know where they came from or what they are but two peices had been wedged under the battery they looked like this
02-20-2012, 08:52 PM
02-20-2012, 08:52 PM
They're the CVA Pin and stud. Look at your Axle assembly on your manual, or the PFD on rc10.com and it'll be easy for ya.
Sc10 4x4 manual
