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Old 01-23-2012, 06:53 AM
  #15586  
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Originally Posted by xrayrc
anyone got any tips to get the diffs to stop leaking?
seems like every 3 races nights after rebuild diff are dry and
upon dissassembly all the oil is in the case and barely in the diff case.

I did try green slime on the orings but it has not helped.

anyone try just running grease should I change diff bearings
because outdrives wobble like crazy....
try the AE black grease.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:09 AM
  #15587  
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Originally Posted by Cain
try the AE black grease.
black grease in diff or on orings?
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:34 AM
  #15588  
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Originally Posted by xrayrc
black grease in diff or on orings?
That won't work. Your diff halfs have a brass bushing inside of them, and are worn out and need to be changed. The same reason your outdrives wobble is why they leak.



About $9.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:34 AM
  #15589  
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basically on anything where you need a seal. so if the leak is around the orings, try it there.

Interesting. that the part is worn. Yeah grease won't work well then.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:58 AM
  #15590  
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Originally Posted by Cain
basically on anything where you need a seal. so if the leak is around the orings, try it there.

Interesting. that the part is worn. Yeah grease won't work well then.
BTW, I agree with your post that the paper gasket needs some grease - but just for a release agent so you can get the gasket out in one piece if you want to change the fluid.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:43 AM
  #15591  
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Unfortunatly we are still waiting for a rock solid diff that doesn't wear out quickly
Id give my left nut for a diff with hardened steel bushing in it instead of brass
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:06 AM
  #15592  
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Originally Posted by discgolferlee
If I run stock spur gear what pinion should I run with a tenshock sc411 sensored 4pole 4600kv motor. running tight indoor carpet track so still debating between 4000 and 4600.

need some gearing suggestions.

any suggestions on this guys. thanks
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:08 AM
  #15593  
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Originally Posted by discgolferlee
any suggestions on this guys. thanks
Do you have anything to go off of based on another vehicle and how its geared?

if you do, you could use this caculator here:

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html

punch in the numbers for that vehicle, and then use your numbers to get the same overall "top speed" so you have a starting point.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:23 AM
  #15594  
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question and yes I did a search... Will a castle external BEC pro fit in the truck? I'll be using a MMP, tekin pro4 4000kv and a hitec 7955 servo. My LHS has the pro in stock but not the smaller one. Just need to know if I need to order the other one.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:31 AM
  #15595  
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Hey guys does anyone know if AE is going to come out with a new slipper design for the truck?
Thanks Jason
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:38 AM
  #15596  
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Originally Posted by racing_jason
Hey guys does anyone know if AE is going to come out with a new slipper design for the truck?
Thanks Jason
its in here some where and ae had no say on it.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:40 AM
  #15597  
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I would go 14 tooth on the indoor carpet, thats whats reallly nice about that tenshock motor, u cant overheat it without really trying to
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:52 AM
  #15598  
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Originally Posted by vito
thanks it was my frist set of sc tries
Looks much better than mine! In that case I would just use a q-tip to put acetone around the rim and use a hot wet towel to wipe away from the outer edges.

Any one have problem with acetone dulling the finish on the stock wheels? I my stockers are getting a bit worn down, and I have a brand new set of them that came with my SC10 kit. I like to just soak them over night in a bucket full of acetone and the tries pull right off nice and clean the next day.

I think acetone can also eat away at the foam, so I wouldn't do that to any tire/insert I wanted to keep.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:57 AM
  #15599  
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Originally Posted by F_ME
The truck works better overall when you have some kind of diff action going on between the F/R diffs. Pinned is not the way to go...it was just a bandaid. You would be better off going with Marcus's center ball diff in my opinion.
Yea, I never liked the Idea of the slipper either. Why waste precious mAh's on pad heat when you can have a center diff putting the power where it needs to go?

To me a slipper's job is just to protect the drivetrain from over-stress.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:59 AM
  #15600  
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Originally Posted by Smithy79
Ahhhhh,
Well wouldn't ya know it, this has all come about since I installed the FT shocks without boots can't believe I didn't think of this.
Thanks for the tips guys, I'll need to compensate the up travel with limiters now that I have no boots.
I'm assuming the limiters clip to the shock shaft under the rubber ring??

Also, since upgrading my ESC motor to the RX8 Pro 4 4000kV, I've killed 2 batteries, melted the bullet socket on the positive termianls.
My C ratings are obviously not accurate? Gens Ace 5000mAh 40C & Turnigy Nanotechs.....
Any suggestions of batteries?

Everyone's help is much appreciated.
Yea that 40C rating on the Gens Ace is BS in my opinion. I haven't had a bullet melt, but after 2-3 mins the Gens Ace pack will start to cog on startup. Where my Protec's keep on truckin.
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