9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
06-09-2011, 01:00 PM
I know this wall very well too Riv!!!! Haha
Were almost done with the layout at Pegasus. Were gonna lay some piping this afternoon, and be ready for some racing friday night, and this saturday!!!!
Your gonna love the new layout...... Can you say monster triple, or supercross track!!! Nomajor straight away to speak of jus good flowy obstacles.
Were almost done with the layout at Pegasus. Were gonna lay some piping this afternoon, and be ready for some racing friday night, and this saturday!!!!
Your gonna love the new layout...... Can you say monster triple, or supercross track!!! Nomajor straight away to speak of jus good flowy obstacles.
06-09-2011, 01:04 PM
06-09-2011, 01:21 PM
All the way up! A few tips if your new to soldering....Keep the tip clean with the wet sponge and add fresh solder to the hot tip before each solder joint,the solder is what flows the heat from the gun to the wire !Tin or pre solder first, wires, post etc...If it seems like the gun is not melting the solder at some point ,clean it,apply fresh solder to the gun and repeat.. hope that helps.
Just to add...650-725F is plenty hot enough. Also, if the soldering iron came with a pencil tip, you will have a hard time transferring heat quickly enough. You may need to get a chisel tip that is 2mm wide. Try keep the iron on the contact you are soldering to less than 5-6 seconds at a time.
06-09-2011, 02:47 PM
Geez there are alot of posts here, so sorry if this has already been asked.
What are your setups like for a hard packed, high grip, clay track? Shock oils, diff oils, etc.?
Ill be running a set of gold compound barcodes and want to know where to go from here.
What are your setups like for a hard packed, high grip, clay track? Shock oils, diff oils, etc.?
Ill be running a set of gold compound barcodes and want to know where to go from here.
06-09-2011, 02:52 PM
Tech Addict
27.5 wt shock oil all around seems to work well
Hole location casey peck setup
.5 degrees camber front
1.0 camber rear
I like this setup.
Pretty good start point, fine tuning for your conditions.
06-09-2011, 02:59 PM
All the way up! A few tips if your new to soldering....Keep the tip clean with the wet sponge and add fresh solder to the hot tip before each solder joint,the solder is what flows the heat from the gun to the wire !Tin or pre solder first, wires, post etc...If it seems like the gun is not melting the solder at some point ,clean it,apply fresh solder to the gun and repeat.. hope that helps.
06-09-2011, 03:10 PM
Rage...didnt you mean 5-3-3...always goes from front to back.
06-09-2011, 03:15 PM
I use 40w front and 25w rear....for comparison sake. Shocks middle/outer, same camber. I really like the heavier oil on indoor smooth clay. It's very planted and turns in and out easy.
I copied it from our fastest driver. FWIW
06-09-2011, 03:21 PM
The New lightened HD outdrives fit perfectly in the diffs, no wobbling at all...machined perfectly.
The stock ones should fit like this but they don't. It's, IMHO, why there are so many varied diff issues beyond the soft pins. When that shaft can wobble around, so does the sun gear, and when that happens it's always in a varied degree of mesh and bind with the spiders, stressing and heating the diff up in odd and unpredictable ways. The older 10-T diffs were the best tolerance wise, I think perhaps the production tooling became worn somewhere along the line.
I went through several complete diffs to try to get the outdrive/cup fit better than stock by mixing and matching, and that helped, but even after that effort, time, and money, I had enough slop in the center diff that I would get some crazy vibration at times.....ridiculously so when the outdrive would wear letting the driveshaft wobble some. I did however, seem to prevent any gear wear/failure issues, and any pin block ovaling issues so perhaps it was worth it. With the HD outdrives, it's all buttery smooth like a properly built 8th scale. About half as loud as it was with new "stock" parts.
The HD outdrives also have a very nice ring to them as all hardened steels do, so if they last a good while, they will be a MUST BUY for the vibration reduction alone. I don't really have any time on them besides a function test, so I can't comment on wear yet.
The stock ones should fit like this but they don't. It's, IMHO, why there are so many varied diff issues beyond the soft pins. When that shaft can wobble around, so does the sun gear, and when that happens it's always in a varied degree of mesh and bind with the spiders, stressing and heating the diff up in odd and unpredictable ways. The older 10-T diffs were the best tolerance wise, I think perhaps the production tooling became worn somewhere along the line.
I went through several complete diffs to try to get the outdrive/cup fit better than stock by mixing and matching, and that helped, but even after that effort, time, and money, I had enough slop in the center diff that I would get some crazy vibration at times.....ridiculously so when the outdrive would wear letting the driveshaft wobble some. I did however, seem to prevent any gear wear/failure issues, and any pin block ovaling issues so perhaps it was worth it. With the HD outdrives, it's all buttery smooth like a properly built 8th scale. About half as loud as it was with new "stock" parts.
The HD outdrives also have a very nice ring to them as all hardened steels do, so if they last a good while, they will be a MUST BUY for the vibration reduction alone. I don't really have any time on them besides a function test, so I can't comment on wear yet.
cant wait to see how the beast runs after im done, going 5,5,3 in the diffs this time. had 5,3,3 in before and it was keeping up with my eco almost and was handling awesome. thanks for the tip with the 43t spur ryan !! didnt take much sanding to get it on either. i just wrapped some 120 around a AA cell and sanded for 2 minutes.
06-09-2011, 03:22 PM
I run a parallel setup with a lipo on each side of the motor and the motor is in the center of the chassis.
I am using the Tekno 36mm mount.
Front has the kick up.
what are you planning to use for a motor mount. I have the same chassis but the techno difff is mounted for a nitro setup. I've looked at a few options but the techno motor mount 36mm seems to be the best. I am also planning to forward mount my motor. You can never have too much steering on a losi.
Front has the kick up.
06-09-2011, 03:32 PM
Tech Initiate
is this car good for bashing?
06-09-2011, 03:34 PM
06-09-2011, 03:37 PM
Tech Initiate
06-09-2011, 03:38 PM
Tech Initiate
i have the same question aswell.
06-09-2011, 03:46 PM
Tech Addict
