Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Regular
iTrader: (51)
I get what you are saying but don't agree with everything you said as I do have a pretty good understanding of the differences in lipo vs. nimh.
Anyway I think this type of conversation is better left to another thread.
So how did everyone due this weekend racing? I did not get to run this weekend but had a lot of fun racing last wed with my new tekin setup. Ran great with tons of power and great bottom end control. I liked the power deliverly better then my old xcelorin novak 4.5 14mm setup. Truck was on rails as well. Keeps getting better the more testing we do!
Anyway I think this type of conversation is better left to another thread.
So how did everyone due this weekend racing? I did not get to run this weekend but had a lot of fun racing last wed with my new tekin setup. Ran great with tons of power and great bottom end control. I liked the power deliverly better then my old xcelorin novak 4.5 14mm setup. Truck was on rails as well. Keeps getting better the more testing we do!
Your correct...my apologies for the spin off.
But I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night....so that makes me an electronics expert....can't drive for sheesh...but I can reverse engineer the heck out of a dumaflache.
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
I may be wrong but isn't the 2.1 the stock spec version of the speedpassion?
Did you have the same thermal problems with the novak? I was not sure on that.
Best I can tell is you have a bad bearing in the drive train or your gear mesh is too tight or something like that.
What kind of settings are you running on your Speedpassion? Turn down the DRRS and timing setttings on the speedo as both of those will create heat.
I run a 15T on my Tekin 4.5 with the RX8 and have had no issues at all.
Also I am assuming ESC thermal? You really should have a fan on just about any ESC you run with this car due to the amp draw.
Did you have the same thermal problems with the novak? I was not sure on that.
Best I can tell is you have a bad bearing in the drive train or your gear mesh is too tight or something like that.
What kind of settings are you running on your Speedpassion? Turn down the DRRS and timing setttings on the speedo as both of those will create heat.
I run a 15T on my Tekin 4.5 with the RX8 and have had no issues at all.
Also I am assuming ESC thermal? You really should have a fan on just about any ESC you run with this car due to the amp draw.
I really do not think a 35c battery has enough oomph for a 815Watt capable motor. At 5 minutes, you are likely outputting about 6.9-7.1 volts which is going to be well over 120 amps of discharge. That speedo's FETs will be saturating and heat is normally the first indicator of such. A quality 50-60c rated battery would likely help out, but that speedo would be the next weak link in the system. Just my .02 worth...
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Bawwwghh.....don't apologize. It's just as important as anything we talk about here. Probably more so, most people don't know how elect. works anyway.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
well had my first race yesterday with my new losi and first ever electric. didnt do so good in the 2 qualifying heats so i tor into the front diff...it needed some shims after doing the ofna pin swap tried some 10,000wt oil in it and in the center. started in 7th and took 2nd in the main. im very please. this truck is so much easier to drive then a nitro. 14mm rotor for my novak 4.5 is on its way.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I spoke to Ryan about this a couple of weeks ago. He has a updated wrist pin in the works that is just like the 1/8 scales which has a notched pin and a set screw to hold it in place. I will let him comment on the avalability but they work very good.
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
qualified 3rd... half a lap out front with 2 mins to go in the main and thermaled
I saw this mentioned in this thread earlier but cant find it now. Is anyone else having isues with the droop screw "self adjusting" during a run. I adjust the droop on the front arms so I have the maximum that it can have and set the droop screw so it just touches the chassis at this full extention to minimize stress on the shock ends at full extension. Anyway at the end of a qualifier (6 min) I come in and the left front arm is basically sitting just level and the right front arm is still sitting fully extended at full droop. Somehow during the run the droop screw is working its way out and limiting limiting the droop on the one front arm.
I fixed it at the track saturday by just backing the droop screw out far enough that it never touched the chassis, but it still shouldnt be doing this. Has anyone found a fix for this problem yet?
I fixed it at the track saturday by just backing the droop screw out far enough that it never touched the chassis, but it still shouldnt be doing this. Has anyone found a fix for this problem yet?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Qualified 2nd, and 4th in the main! 1st time racing. Just bummed that when I took apart the diffs. to install new pins from Horizion and in my rear diff the spider gears are shot. Looks like they are out of stock everywhere???? Of course just when I get this thing dialed and start racing I get benched.
We have some more testing this at this time, we are even trying it without the plastic collars too.
It's a little long but I made it fit...
I have been running the VTX10R and Viper 550's 4.5 and 5.5 since January, no issues and no complaints. I tested the prototype 550's and now the production 550's, they are very nice. The 550's are due in the next three to four weeks.
I have been running the VTX10R and Viper 550's 4.5 and 5.5 since January, no issues and no complaints. I tested the prototype 550's and now the production 550's, they are very nice. The 550's are due in the next three to four weeks.
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)
Thanks, that is very good news.
I checked, both are out of stock. I think Horizion should have sent replacement gears as well as pin?????????????????????????????????
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)
I saw this mentioned in this thread earlier but cant find it now. Is anyone else having isues with the droop screw "self adjusting" during a run. I adjust the droop on the front arms so I have the maximum that it can have and set the droop screw so it just touches the chassis at this full extention to minimize stress on the shock ends at full extension. Anyway at the end of a qualifier (6 min) I come in and the left front arm is basically sitting just level and the right front arm is still sitting fully extended at full droop. Somehow during the run the droop screw is working its way out and limiting limiting the droop on the one front arm.
I fixed it at the track saturday by just backing the droop screw out far enough that it never touched the chassis, but it still shouldnt be doing this. Has anyone found a fix for this problem yet?
I fixed it at the track saturday by just backing the droop screw out far enough that it never touched the chassis, but it still shouldnt be doing this. Has anyone found a fix for this problem yet?
Okay, now you've gotten my attention. How is it that you don't have any issues using a 15T pinion?? I'm running the same motor/ESC and I have to run my currently limiter at 85% for 14/40 gearing. What's your secret??