9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
05-03-2011, 06:23 PM
#8491
Ill have to tear the whole truck down tomorrow.
I rebuilt the center and rear diff and one of the bearings in the center was junk, and my pins in the rear were worn a bit so i replaced em. 3k in both.
Another thing is, the track i was runnin on is very very dusty, could excessive wheelspin be causing this?
Any tips on what else to check?
I rebuilt the center and rear diff and one of the bearings in the center was junk, and my pins in the rear were worn a bit so i replaced em. 3k in both.
Another thing is, the track i was runnin on is very very dusty, could excessive wheelspin be causing this?
Any tips on what else to check?
05-03-2011, 06:27 PM
#8492
So, I finally have to post something about all of this motor versus temp versus weight...mph...and on and on. I have run many systems in this truck. This truck is a 10th scale truck so lets take 10th scale 4wd mod, it does on average 32-35 on a 120 foot stright. So, why does everyone get stuck on mph and whatnot with these trucks on large outdoor tracks. These are not supposed to be as fast as an 8th scale. Thats why ROAR put a 2s limit on the class. So, when your motor is boiling at 190-200 degrees and you get 38-40 out of it, well, thats too much according to the class. We can make this car as light as a durango and then it would break as easy too. But its heavier, not a tank as some put it, but heavier. We are even working on and have come out with a lot of things to make it even lighter. My car is under 6 pounds without the body. I used to push my 8th scale around with a 550 and ran fine and won races with it. So if I can push an 8 pound car around, I can do a 6.5 pound car, no problem.
Now as a hobbyist, I understand you always want it faster. But now I can see where all of the issues are coming from. 8th scale motor this, 3s that...I have a couple 4.5's, a 5.5, a 3800, a 2400, and a 2800
that running in 102 degree weather today all stayed under 180 on a decent sized outdoor track. Some never got over 165 12 minutes into running them. And yes, I drive hard.
Now, keep up the healthy debate, but lets get away from the heavy this, how do you that...everyone will have a different experience and that is what the forums are for. Just dont sound confused when your car is going 40 and you are having heat or speedo issues.
Now as a hobbyist, I understand you always want it faster. But now I can see where all of the issues are coming from. 8th scale motor this, 3s that...I have a couple 4.5's, a 5.5, a 3800, a 2400, and a 2800
that running in 102 degree weather today all stayed under 180 on a decent sized outdoor track. Some never got over 165 12 minutes into running them. And yes, I drive hard.Now, keep up the healthy debate, but lets get away from the heavy this, how do you that...everyone will have a different experience and that is what the forums are for. Just dont sound confused when your car is going 40 and you are having heat or speedo issues.
And I respectfully disagree about the Tank statement. 7lbs for a stocker with a 550 is pretty Tankish
If not Tankish, maybe Morbidly Obese?
05-03-2011, 06:30 PM
#8493
Been pounding this truck for over two months hard!The shims and blocks are perfect as are the gears,ran og pins untill two weeks ago and had only to replace the rears with pins I made.The front and center could still be run had I not got my Losi pins!! Truck never sat on the shelf and ran hard for two months! Again alum blocks ,shims,gears are perfect!!!! So not every truck is seeing these issues!!!!!!
Last edited by BmainStar; 05-03-2011 at 06:32 PM. Reason: cuz my truck is not a shelf queen!
05-03-2011, 06:31 PM
#8494
I would rather drive on a smaller technical track.
The extra maintenance and amount of money it takes to go just a few mph faster just does not seem worth it to me don't get me wrong I like speed but my 1410 with a 12tooth on the small indoor track flies and the 14 tooth inside is faster than I think these trucks should go.
The faster you go the more you brake
The extra maintenance and amount of money it takes to go just a few mph faster just does not seem worth it to me don't get me wrong I like speed but my 1410 with a 12tooth on the small indoor track flies and the 14 tooth inside is faster than I think these trucks should go.
The faster you go the more you brake
05-03-2011, 06:31 PM
#8495
If I get the mmp what would happen if I got the combo with the 2400 kv?
I figure you would probably have to gear it pretty high to compete with the 3800 motor on 2s or will it be comparable?
I might be better getting the combo. Rather than buying the speedo alone but if my 3800 will still be way better then maybe the combo with the 4600 4 pole and use that motor in my sc10 2wd?
I figure you would probably have to gear it pretty high to compete with the 3800 motor on 2s or will it be comparable?
I might be better getting the combo. Rather than buying the speedo alone but if my 3800 will still be way better then maybe the combo with the 4600 4 pole and use that motor in my sc10 2wd?
That's another option... The 2400 is comparable when geared right. It's an expensive jump though, I would rather take that extra cash and pitch it towards the RX8 and run the 3800. You are a little limited on gearing with the 2400, 19T is the largest pinion you can run in the stock mount. Elite RC makes a mount and you can go larger if you needed a bit more top end. Rage runs that motor on 3S with a 13T pinion and it's equal to the 3800 but much more lowend but about the same down the strait. If you are limited to 2S keep the 3800 IMHO and get a RX8.
05-03-2011, 06:34 PM
#8496
Droop screws
Well I was hoping to come up with a droop screw to make the front page of this forum but..
If anyone owns a RC8 or RC8t this design of droop screw would be another alternative but the AE screw is the wrong size. I searched the web looking for a 4-40 droop screw similar to the AE design (Button head is what actually contacts the chassis and threaded end is where the adjustment is made via set screw style end) I still think a standard button head 4-40 screw can be used the same way but in order to make adjustments some simple dremelling to create a slot would allow adjustments with a standard tuning screw driver. I'l try it this weekend and post an update
If anyone owns a RC8 or RC8t this design of droop screw would be another alternative but the AE screw is the wrong size. I searched the web looking for a 4-40 droop screw similar to the AE design (Button head is what actually contacts the chassis and threaded end is where the adjustment is made via set screw style end) I still think a standard button head 4-40 screw can be used the same way but in order to make adjustments some simple dremelling to create a slot would allow adjustments with a standard tuning screw driver. I'l try it this weekend and post an update
05-03-2011, 06:36 PM
#8497
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Been pounding this truck for over two months hard!The shims and blocks are perfect as are the gears,ran og pins untill two weeks ago and had only to replace the rears with pins I made.The front and center could still be run had I not got my Losi pins!! Truck never sat on the shelf and ran hard for two months! Again alum blocks ,shims,gears are perfect!!!! So not every truck is seeing these issues!!!!!!
100% correct, but alot of SCTE driver/owners are.... your some of the
blessed few...
05-03-2011, 06:42 PM
#8498
Well I was hoping to come up with a droop screw to make the front page of this forum but.. If anyone owns a RC8 or RC8t this design of droop screw would be another alternative but the AE screw is the wrong size. I searched the web looking for a 4-40 droop screw similar to the AE design (Button head is what actually contacts the chassis and threaded end is where the adjustment is made via set screw style end) I still think a standard button head 4-40 screw can be used the same way but in order to make adjustments some simple dremelling to create a slot would allow adjustments with a standard tuning screw driver. I'l try it this weekend and post an update
If anyone owns a RC8 or RC8t this design of droop screw would be another alternative but the AE screw is the wrong size. I searched the web looking for a 4-40 droop screw similar to the AE design (Button head is what actually contacts the chassis and threaded end is where the adjustment is made via set screw style end) I still think a standard button head 4-40 screw can be used the same way but in order to make adjustments some simple dremelling to create a slot would allow adjustments with a standard tuning screw driver. I'l try it this weekend and post an update Does the droop screw go into the chassis or the a-arm? Trying to picture this, I haven't inspected an RC8 that close. I will say drilling the chassis and tapping the holes works fine but if there is an easier option I'm sure we are all ears.
Are these the screws? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...T-Droop-Screws
05-03-2011, 06:47 PM
#8499
Thanks man!!
Does the droop screw go into the chassis or the a-arm? Trying to picture this, I haven't inspected an RC8 that close. I will say drilling the chassis and tapping the holes works fine but if there is an easier option I'm sure we are all ears.
Are these the screws? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...T-Droop-Screws
Does the droop screw go into the chassis or the a-arm? Trying to picture this, I haven't inspected an RC8 that close. I will say drilling the chassis and tapping the holes works fine but if there is an easier option I'm sure we are all ears.
Are these the screws? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...T-Droop-Screws
05-03-2011, 06:48 PM
#8500
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Well I was hoping to come up with a droop screw to make the front page of this forum but.. If anyone owns a RC8 or RC8t this design of droop screw would be another alternative but the AE screw is the wrong size. I searched the web looking for a 4-40 droop screw similar to the AE design (Button head is what actually contacts the chassis and threaded end is where the adjustment is made via set screw style end) I still think a standard button head 4-40 screw can be used the same way but in order to make adjustments some simple dremelling to create a slot would allow adjustments with a standard tuning screw driver. I'l try it this weekend and post an update
If anyone owns a RC8 or RC8t this design of droop screw would be another alternative but the AE screw is the wrong size. I searched the web looking for a 4-40 droop screw similar to the AE design (Button head is what actually contacts the chassis and threaded end is where the adjustment is made via set screw style end) I still think a standard button head 4-40 screw can be used the same way but in order to make adjustments some simple dremelling to create a slot would allow adjustments with a standard tuning screw driver. I'l try it this weekend and post an update Cool idea...I like it a lot"
05-03-2011, 06:50 PM
#8501
That's another option... The 2400 is comparable when geared right. It's an expensive jump though, I would rather take that extra cash and pitch it towards the RX8 and run the 3800. You are a little limited on gearing with the 2400, 19T is the largest pinion you can run in the stock mount. Elite RC makes a mount and you can go larger if you needed a bit more top end. Rage runs that motor on 3S with a 13T pinion and it's equal to the 3800 but much more lowend but about the same down the strait. If you are limited to 2S keep the 3800 IMHO and get a RX8.
Side note......Can someone point me to a pic that shows the correct looking gear mesh for these trucks?
05-03-2011, 07:00 PM
#8502
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
you guys that run 8th scale motors on 3/4s. do you think the shocks are adequate to handle the extra weight? what setup do you run for oil?
i run a mamba 2200kv with a mmp on 3s. it handles good with the stock oil/springs. however, i am no setup guru. thought i would ask and see what others are doing. thanks.
i run a mamba 2200kv with a mmp on 3s. it handles good with the stock oil/springs. however, i am no setup guru. thought i would ask and see what others are doing. thanks.
05-03-2011, 07:01 PM
#8503
05-03-2011, 07:31 PM
#8505
TEAR DOWN AND CLEAN UP.
WELL AFTER FINALLY GETING MY TRUCK ON A DIRT TRACK I GOT A FEEL OF WHAT AN AWSOME TRUCK THIS IS. I USED THE CACTUS CLASSIC SET UP, WORKED GOOD BUT OUR LOCAL TRACK WAS BLOWN OUT DUE TO ALOT OF APRIL RAIN. I WAS RUNNING THE NOVAK PRO SC 4.5 WITH 14 MM ROTOR GEARED 19/40 THEN DROPPED TO 17/40 TEMPS HI WITH 19 WERE 180-185 AND WITH THE 17 WERE 160-165 DIFFS WERE 5-3-2 GOLD FRONT AND SILVER SPRINGS REAR. I AM FAR FROM THE BEST DRIVER A LITTLE AGGRESSIVE TO SAY THE LEAST. IF MY FINGER WASNT TO TWITCHY ID BE BETTER....LOL..GOT 3RD IN 2 QUALIFIERS AND 3RD IN BOTH A MAINS FIRST PLACE WAS 8IGHT-E AND SECOND WAS A DURANGO DRIVER. IT WAS A FUN DAY FOR ALL OF US TO SEE WHAT OUR TRUCKS WOULD DO. I NOW HAVE THE CASTLE 1410 WITH THE MONSTER MAMBA TO TRY OUT. NOW IF IT WILL STOP RAINING I CAN GET OUT THERE.....STRIPPED THE TRUCK DOWN REBUILDING DIFFS GIVE IT A GOOD CLEANING . NOTICED I HAD A BENT FRONT HINGE PIN. ANYONE TRYED CHRIS ATTEBERY'S TI-HINGE PINS YET? THINKING ON GETTING SOME.....